DIY iPad 6 Wi-Fi Headphone Jack Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
Get ready to swap out that 3.5mm audio jack in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi! Just a heads up, when you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker, take it easy—those battery contacts can be a bit fragile and we definitely don’t want to mess up the logic board. If you decide to skip the battery isolation, steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for those pesky screws) to keep the battery and sensitive circuit components safe. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
– Warm up your iOpener and give it a nice cozy hug to the left edge of your device for a couple of minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
– While you’re letting that adhesive take its sweet time to loosen up, keep an eye on these delicate areas that are a bit prying-sensitive:
Step 3
The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make the opening process smoother. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries, skip down three steps for a different method. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Give the blue handle a yank backward to free up the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
– Slide something under your iPad so it’s nice and level between the suction cups.
– Line up the suction cups around the middle of the left edge—one at the top, one at the bottom.
– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, then press down firmly on the top cup to get some solid suction.
Step 4
– Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
– Give the handle a full 360-degree turn clockwise or until you notice the cups stretching.
– Ensure the suction cups stay in sync. If they start to misalign, just loosen them up a bit and realign the arms. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 5
– Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little gap for you.
– If your screen’s feeling a bit chilly, grab a hair dryer and warm up the left edge of the iPad.
– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made a nice enough gap.
– Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is looking like a spider web, a layer of clear packing tape might just do the trick to help the suction cup stick. You could also opt for some super strong tape if you want to skip the suction cup altogether. And if you’re really in a bind, a little superglue on the suction cup can help it cling to that cracked screen like a champ!
– First things first, let’s warm up that screen until it’s cozy to the touch! Once it’s feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
– Now, gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You got this!
– Time to slide in an opening pick into that little gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame. Easy peasy!
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Step 7
No need to fret if the opening pick is visible through the digitizer—just gently remove it. The LCD screen should be A-OK, but there’s a slight chance you might leave some sticky stuff behind.
– Get that second opening pick ready to party in the gap you just created.
– Glide the pick down to the cool bottom-left corner of the device to gently coax the adhesive apart.
– Let the pick hang out in the bottom-left corner to make sure that sticky stuff knows it’s not welcome to re-seal.
Step 8
– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep on separating that adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 9
– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break that adhesive seal.
– Keep the pick in the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 10
– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for a chill two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
– Gently wiggle the pick around the upper-left corner of the device to loosen up the adhesive.
Step 12
Keep your pick away from the front camera to avoid any mishaps with the lens. Follow these steps to ensure everything stays safe and sound.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to pause just before you hit the front camera. You’ve got this!
Step 13
– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
– Slide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 15
– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for a couple of minutes. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
– Swing that pick around the top-right corner to free up the adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 17
The display cables hang out around the halfway mark from the bottom of your iPad. Just slide until you hit about three inches from the bottom, and then it’s time to stop. You’ve got this!
– Slide in a new opening pick and glide it to the middle of the iPad’s right side. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 18
– Warm up your iOpener and stick it on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break that adhesive seal like a pro.
– Keep the pick snug in the bottom-left corner while you gear up for the next step.
Step 20
– Get ready to insert a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
– Glide the pick smoothly over the antenna, pausing right before you reach the home button.
– Give the pick a little space to hang out on the left side of the home button before moving forward.
Step 21
Be a proud phone ninja and only poke the right antenna up to 1 mm!
– Gently slide an opening pick into the little gap you’ve just created.
– Carefully glide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame—no need to go overboard!
Step 22
– Pop that pick back in and glide it over to the home button to fully break free from the bottom adhesive.
– Keep the pick snugly to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step. Warm up the adhesive until it’s nice and soft, then make sure you’ve got it all separated with a pick. And hey, if you need to, stop and reheat. No rush! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
If it’s feeling stubborn, give the edges another quick heat, then coax it with an opening pick.
– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to break free the last bits of adhesive along the way. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– As you give a little love to the digitizer, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 27
– After you’ve gotten rid of all that sticky stuff, it’s time to pop open the digitizer just like you’re cracking open a good read. Lay it down gently next to the iPad, chill vibes only.
– When it’s time to put things back together, give the frame and the digitizer a nice rub down with some isopropyl alcohol. Get rid of any leftover stickiness like a pro. Need more sticky stuff? Check out our