DIY iPad CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 37 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to take it easy and double-check your work as you dive into the repair process. If you hit a snag or need a helping hand, feel free to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!
Follow this guide to swap out the Home Button Assembly! Just a heads up: some of the images were taken using a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. No worries though, the steps are the same for both models, except where we’ve pointed it out. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before you dive in, it’s a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC. A clean microwave means less chance of that pesky gunk sticking to your iOpener during the repair. Trust us, your future self will thank you!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair. If it gets too hot, it might have a little pop moment. So, let’s keep the temperature under 100˚C (212˚F) to avoid any surprises!
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is swollen, steer clear of it!
If the center of the iOpener is still feeling a bit too toasty for comfort, no worries! Just hang tight and let it cool down a bit more before giving it another heat session. A well-heated iOpener can stay cozy for up to 10 minutes!
– Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave!
– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by giving it another thirty seconds in the microwave whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care. A cozy oven mitt might just be your best buddy here!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot middle.
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop that iOpener in some boiling water and let it soak up the heat.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to make sure your iOpener can take a nice dive in there.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil and then turn off the heat. Safety first, right?
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully underwater, giving it a cozy soak!
– Now, using some tongs (or any trusty utensil), fish out that warm iOpener from the water.
– Give it a good dry-off with a towel, because nobody likes a soggy iOpener!
– And voila! Your iOpener is all set and ready to roll! If it needs a little extra warmth later, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it chill in the water for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Rock those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—let’s keep it in one piece!
– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! Just grab some tape to keep those shards in check and avoid any mishaps while you tackle your repair.
– Start by layering some clear packing tape over the iPad’s display, making sure to cover every inch of that beautiful face.
– Now, follow the guide as best as you can! Just a heads up, once the glass starts to break, it might keep on cracking while you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a heads up: while you’re diving into this repair adventure, you might come across some broken glass. To keep those peepers safe from any sneaky shards, we highly suggest rocking a pair of safety glasses. Better safe than sorry, right?
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for optimal heat transfer.
– Allow the iOpener to chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before diving into the fun of prying open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Spot the sneaky little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner—it’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!
– Grab your trusty tool and line it up with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to widen the crack a bit.
Step 9
– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that inviting gap, right alongside your opening tool.
Step 10
– Carefully take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad and gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass until you reach about 0.5 inches deep. You’re doing great!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some serious elbow grease. Take it easy and work with care!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick sneaking underneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out just a tad. Don’t worry, using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads-up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening that stubborn adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, and watch the adhesive give way as you go. Easy peasy!
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Step 13
As you start peeling away that stubborn adhesive, don’t forget to slide the heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad. How long it’s been cooling while you’ve been working on it will determine if you need to give it a little extra warmth.
– If the opening pick gets a bit clingy with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep that sticky stuff from holding on too tight.
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Step 14
– Before you dive into the fun of getting your iPad open, pop a second opening pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back together while you work your magic.
– Give your iOpener a little heat boost, and then place it on the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things warm and friendly as we proceed!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given its position, it’s super important to handle it with care to avoid any accidental mishaps that could lead to some serious damage. Let’s keep that antenna safe and sound!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to proceed with care! These next steps are a bit delicate.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while making sure not to harm the fragile components connecting the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Just take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner! Going too far could put a dent in your Wi-Fi antenna. Let’s keep that connection strong!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, be careful! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner, and if the adhesive gets a little too friendly, it could get cut. Keep it steady and watch out for that sneaky antenna!
Gently wiggle that pick out from under the front glass—just a smidge! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip cozy and snug under there. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, releasing the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’re on your way to a smooth repair!
Step 18
– Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick in all the way. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently glide that pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener cozy, but not too toasty! Heat it up for just a minute at a time and give it a little break for at least two minutes before you warm it up again. You’ve got this!
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad, and as you do, gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling away that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad—you’re doing great!
– Once you’ve got that adhesive sorted, pop the opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button.
Step 22
If your adhesive has decided to cool down too much, just swap in your trusty iOpener along the top edge and keep on working. And if your iOpener has gotten a bit too cool, give it a little reheat and it’ll be back in action!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so don’t hesitate to apply a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be careful—no one wants a surprise slip that could hurt you or your iPad.
– If your opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still hanging on tight, give that iOpener another heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and then gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hiding about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, stop when you’re about 2.25 inches (60 mm) away from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it free the adhesive as you glide along. The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer stretching the entire left side. Just be sure not to go too deep (keep it to a maximum of 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
The digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, take your time and be gentle—let’s not give that cable the chop!
– With that handy opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently peel back the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little hug with your fingers to hold it in place!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping that front panel snug as a bug.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a gentle twist away from the device. It’s like a little dance move for your iPad!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air. Give that LCD a good clean to banish any dust bunnies or fingerprints before you snug the glass back in place.
Step 28
– Let’s get to it! Start by unscrewing those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– To get to those sneaky front panel ribbon cables hiding under the LCD, you’ll need to gently flip the LCD out of the way for a moment. No big deal!
– Start by lifting the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and carefully flipping it out of the rear case—think of it like turning the page of your favorite book.
– Once you’ve done that, lay the LCD face down on the front panel. Easy peasy!
Step 30
Make sure you’re gently lifting the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
The retaining flaps are marked in red in the second image, so keep your eyes peeled for them!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. It’s like peeling a sticker—easy does it!
– Now, with a gentle touch, ease the digitizer cable off the adhesive that’s holding it snugly to the side of the rear case. Remember, patience is key!
Step 32
– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable and pull it straight out from its two cozy sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 33
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll want to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some extra space for this delicate maneuver.
– Gently lift the LCD from its longest edge, the one that’s farthest from the digitizer cable, and carefully fold it back toward the rear case—just like you’re closing a book, but a techy one!
– While you’re holding the LCD up, delicately slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a friendly reminder: be cautious not to let the digitizer cable get caught on the rear case or the LCD. We want this to go smoothly!
Step 34
The home button assembly is glued to the front panel, so it’s like a little sticky buddy. To help ease it off, we suggest using an iOpener to gently warm things up and soften that adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Pop that iOpener into the microwave and give it a quick 30-second zap on high power. It’s time to get toasty!
– Next, gently place the warm iOpener right over the home button on the front edge of the display. Let it work its magic!
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Step 35
– Slide the plastic opening tool underneath the right side of the home button assembly and gently pry upwards to break the adhesive seal on that side. Keep it steady and you’ll be golden!
Step 36
– With a little finesse, gently work on loosening the sticky stuff on the left side of the home button.
– Once that’s done, carefully lift the home button mount away from the front panel.
Step 37
– Gently slide the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool under the home button mounting bracket. You’ve got this!
– Now, take that tool and glide it along the retaining spring bracket to release the sticky stuff holding it in place. Smooth moves!
– Finally, lift out the home button along with its mounting bracket from the front panel. Easy peasy!