Google Pixel 2 Front Camera Replacement Guide: DIY Step-by-Step
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 30 Steps
Hey there! This guide’s been put together by the awesome folks at Salvation Repair, and it’s not sponsored by Google. Want to learn more about our guides? Check ’em out here.
The team at Salvation Repair put together this guide. For more info on our repair guides, check it out here. If your front camera is lagging, it’s probably time to swap out the component. Make sure you’ve got a magnetic project mat to keep all those tiny screws organized. Replacing it is pretty straightforward, but it does take some time, so plan ahead and set aside a chunk of time to get it done. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Hey, that curved glass can be a little tricky for the suction cup. It might be time to switch tactics! No worries, we’ve got you covered.
– Okay, so your phone’s display glass is cracked. No worries! Let’s keep things safe and sound. Go ahead and tape up that glass. That’ll keep things from getting worse and protect you from those sharp edges. Plus, it gives us a smooth surface for the suction cup to grab onto.
– Now, stick that suction cup right near the volume button, as close to the edge as you can get, but avoid that curved part. We want it to have a good grip!
Step 2
Hey, those display panels are like delicate little snowflakes. So, if you’re thinking about reusing your display, be careful when you’re using your tool. Just go as far as you need to get the adhesive loose. If you go too far, you might end up with a cracked OLED panel. And that wouldn’t be good.
Don’t go too deep, champ! Keep that pick at 1.5 mm or less. You don’t want to hurt that OLED panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Removing this can be a bit of a challenge, but don’t worry, you’ve got this. It’s going to take some force and patience, so take a deep breath and let’s do this. If it’s not budging, try gently rocking the suction cup and screen back and forth to loosen the adhesive. You can also apply some heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to help things along. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– With a steady hand, gently pull up on the suction cup and slide an opening pick between the front panel and rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 3
Heads up! In the next steps, you’ll want to tread carefully in certain spots to keep your phone safe and sound:
Avoid pushing an opening tool more than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or deeper than 9 mm at the top and bottom, as it may lead to irreversible display damage.
– Be careful not to insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone – if it hits the folded part of the OLED panel, you might end up with a damaged display. Let’s keep that screen safe!
– When making cuts in the upper left corner, keep them super shallow. Prying too deeply can put the front-facing camera at risk of damage. Take your time and you’ll be golden! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 4
Handle those side bezels like they’re made of spun sugar—just 1.5 mm deep, so a gentle touch goes a long way!
In the following steps, use the flat side of the opening pick instead of a corner when you’re cutting here. This’ll help you avoid accidentally pushing the pick in too deep.
– Let’s get this party started! Slide the opening pick along the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive. It’s like a little dance between the pick and the phone.
Step 5
Hey there! There’s a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, be careful not to damage or lose this little guy. You can always schedule a repair if you’re feeling unsure.
– Glide your opening pick around the upper-right corner and across the top edge of the phone.
Step 6
– Now it’s time to get this repair started – gently slide the pick around the upper-left corner of your phone and work your way down the left edge. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 7
Hey there, champ! Be careful not to insert that pick more than 9 mm. You don’t want to hurt that delicate OLED panel, right? If you’re feeling a little unsure, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair. We’ll make sure everything goes smoothly.
– Slide that pick around the bottom-left corner and wave it along the bottom of your phone. Keep it at a friendly angle away from the screen, so you don’t accidentally damage those OLED corners. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 8
Hold up there, cowboy! The display is still connected to the motherboard with a delicate ribbon cable. Let’s be careful and not rip it apart just yet. We’ll get to that soon enough.
– Slide the pick back into the top edge of your phone and gently lift the display up like you’re unveiling a surprise. Keep it cool and steady!
Step 9
– Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown – don’t worry about getting it perfect, just make sure you don’t wrinkle that display ribbon cable.
– Now let’s take out those two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws holding the display cable bracket.
– Remember, like a good puzzle, we want to put everything back where it came from. So keep track of those screws! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 10
– Let’s get started by removing the display cable bracket. This is a crucial step, so take your time and make sure it’s done correctly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 11
Be careful! The motherboard is a delicate little thing. It’s easy to damage the components around the socket with a spudger. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Use the tip of your spudger to gently lift the display cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
– To reconnect this connector, make sure it’s lined up perfectly, then press down on one side until it clicks. Repeat on the other side. Don’t press down on the middle—that could bend the pins and cause some serious trouble.
– If any part of your screen is acting up after your repair, try reseating this connector. Make sure it’s all the way in and that there’s no dust or debris blocking the socket.
– During reassembly, take a moment to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display. This will help keep everything snug and secure.
Tools Used
Step 12
– Get ready to warm things up! Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes. This’ll help soften the adhesive, making it easier to work with. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 13
– Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera.
– Now, gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is standing up straight, like it’s saying ‘hello’ to the midframe.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Let’s get this party started! Peel back the tiny piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Make sure to peel back any tape covering other screws too. You’re a rockstar!
– Now, let’s remove those screws holding the midframe together. Here’s what you’re looking for:
– Hey, remember to keep track of each screw. It’s important to put them back where they came from, just like a jigsaw puzzle!
– Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws
– One 4 mm T5 Torx screw
Step 15
– Slide your trusty opening tool into the notch on the midframe, right by the hold button. You’ve got this!
– Gently pry the midframe up just enough to make a little gap between it and the phone case. Remember, we’re not taking it all the way off just yet.
Step 16
– Gently lift the midframe starting from the bottom edge, like you’re unveiling a surprise!
– Once the midframe is at about a 45° angle with the rest of the phone, keep that momentum going and lift it straight up and away.
– As you lift the midframe, take a moment to carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe—it’s like helping it find its way home!
Step 17
– Let’s get started by using the flat end of a spudger to carefully disconnect the battery connector. Remember to take your time and be gentle, and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 19
– Grab a plastic dropper or syringe and fill it with some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol. Now, add a few drops of that magic liquid under each corner of the battery. Let it sit for about a minute so the alcohol can work its magic on the battery adhesive.
– Alternatively, you can heat things up! Use a warmed iOpener and place it on the back of your phone over the battery. Keep it there for a solid two minutes. Don’t be shy; reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed until the adhesive gives up and lets you win!
Tools Used
Step 20
Hey, be careful not to bend the battery too much. These little guys are packed with energy, and they’re a bit sensitive. Don’t use any sharp tools or push too hard. If you’re feeling unsure, you can always schedule a repair.
– First, gently move the charging assembly cable aside and carefully insert an opening pick along the bottom edge of the battery – you got this!
– Now, apply some steady pressure to slowly pry the battery up and out of the phone. Take your time, it’s easier than it looks!
– If you’re having a little trouble, don’t worry! Just add some more alcohol under the battery and try again. You’re almost there!
– Remember to only pry from the center of the battery to avoid damaging those delicate ribbon cables beneath. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 21
Heads up! Don’t try to put that old battery back in. It’s time for a fresh start with a brand new battery. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Alrighty, let’s snap it up! First, unplug that trusty old battery of yours. Now, if you’re ready to swap it out for a new one, here’s what you do: Gently remove any leftover glue bits with a spudger and clean those areas with some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free towel. Once that’s done, stick that new battery in and secure it with some pre-cut adhesive or double-sided tape. Just remember, position it carefully and avoid touching those cables underneath. Give that bad boy a little bounce to make sure it’s snug! If you wind up needing a hand, don’t forget you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 22
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to unplug the charging assembly connector from the motherboard. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 23
– Alrighty, time to be a phone spy! Insert a trusty paperclip or secret SIM eject tool into the tiny hole on the left side of your phone and gently push. Your SIM card tray will reveal itself! Gently remove it and let’s keep the mission going.
Step 24
– Let’s get started by removing the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 25
– Time to unplug those bad boys! Carefully disconnect the two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard. It’s like a little dance – just slide them off gently. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 26
– Time to get that motherboard out! Gently pry it up with your plastic opening tool. You got this!
– Now, carefully remove that motherboard. Take your time and don’t force anything.
Step 27
Bingo! The motherboard has officially said goodbye to its old home and is now a total free spirit, living the life of tech solitude! Quite the journey, don’t ya think?
– Time to flip that motherboard over like a pro!
– Gently unplug the fingerprint sensor cable and give it a little love.
Step 28
– Now it’s time to give your motherboard a little vacation. Gently lift it out of the device, like you’re helping it escape to a relaxing motherboard spa.
Step 29
– Use a plastic opening tool to carefully release the front camera’s press fit connector – take your time and it’ll come loose with a little gentle prying. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 30
– Take out the front camera from the device. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
