Google Pixel 2 Rear Camera Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 24 Steps
Hey there, this repair guide was created by the awesome folks at Salvation Repair. It’s a super helpful way to fix your device, but remember, we’re here to help! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair with us. Let’s get this done!
Note:
Hey there, tech enthusiast! This step-by-step repair guide is all about swapping out the rear camera on your Google Pixel 2. It’s a bit of a journey, requiring us to take the motherboard for a spin. Don’t worry, it’s all part of the adventure! Just a heads up, some of the pics might show the battery out, but we don’t need to mess with that for this repair. If you need a helping hand, you can always schedule a repair. Let’s get this camera fixed!
Step 1
Hey, that curved glass can be tricky! The suction cup might not want to stick perfectly. It’s ok, just try a little harder, or find a flatter spot to get started. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– If your display glass is cracked, take a deep breath and let’s get started. To avoid any more damage or injury, tape that glass to keep things under control. This will also give you a smooth surface to work with, making it easier to get a good bond with the suction cup.
– Now it’s time to bring in the suction cup. Place it as close to the volume button edge as possible, being careful not to get too close to the curved edge. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 2
Be gentle with that display panel – it’s fragile. When you’re using your tool to separate the adhesive, only go as far as you need to. You don’t want to accidentally damage the OLED panel underneath the glass.
Keep your pick shallow, about 1.5 mm or less. Going deeper can put your OLED panel at risk of damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Removing this can be a bit of a challenge, but don’t worry, you’ve got this. It’s going to take some force and patience, so take a deep breath and let’s do this. If it’s not budging, try gently rocking the suction cup and screen back and forth to loosen the adhesive. You can also apply some heat with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to help it along. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Now, grab that suction cup and give it a good, firm pull. Then, slide that opening pick in between the front panel and the rear case. You got this!
Step 3
Hey, it’s time for a little heads-up! We gotta be careful with that opening tool, alright? Don’t go digging it in more than 1.5 mm on the sides or 9 mm on the top and bottom. We don’t want to accidentally do any damage to your phone’s fancy screen, right?
If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Keep that pick under control! Don’t push it more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of your phone. If it bumps into the folded part of the OLED panel, it could spell trouble for your display.
– When you’re making those cuts in the upper left corner, go easy! Just a light touch will do—digging too deep might put your front-facing camera in jeopardy.
Step 4
Be careful when handling the side bezels – they’re super thin at just 1.5 mm deep, so let’s take our time and get it just right. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
When working through these steps, use the flat edge of the opening pick to pry here, rather than the corner. This technique will help you avoid inserting the pick too far and making things more complicated than they need to be. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Now it’s time to get this phone open. Slide the opening pick up the right side to loosen the display adhesive and start separating the display from the rest of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 5
Be careful not to damage or lose the mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you’re missing a replacement mesh, take extra precautions to keep this tiny component safe. And if you’re feeling stuck, don’t worry – you can always schedule a repair
– Gently glide your opening pick around the upper-right corner and then along the top edge of your phone. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Let’s slide that pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge – we’re getting this thing open!
Step 7
Alright, cool cat, just a heads up: don’t get too crazy with that opening pick and go past 9mm. You wouldn’t want to accidentally give that OLED panel a little scratch, would you? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently glide the pick around the bottom-left corner and across the bottom edge of your phone. Keep that pick tilted just a little away from the screen to protect those delicate OLED corners from any potential mishaps.
Step 8
Be careful not to completely detach the display just yet – there’s still a delicate ribbon cable connecting it to the phone’s motherboard, so let’s take it one step at a time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
If the display doesn’t want to come off easily, don’t worry! Just give it a little more encouragement and pry those edges apart. You’ll find that the adhesive near the top speaker is a little stubborn, but with a little finesse, you’ll be able to separate it. Remember, patience is key! If you find yourself struggling, you can always schedule a repair.
– Now, slide that pick along the top edge of your phone and gently lift that display up. It’s like you’re giving your phone a little hug, but with a tool.
Step 9
– Gently place the display on top of the rear case, just like in the picture, and be careful not to crinkle or damage that delicate display ribbon cable.
– Unscrew those two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws holding the display cable bracket in place.
– As you work through this repair, keep an eye on each screw and remember to put it back exactly where it belongs.
Step 10
– Hey there! Let’s losing this display cable bracket – it’s like a game where you’re a master technician! So, slide that puppy to the right and gently remove it. Wanna see how it’s done? Don’t worry if it’s your first time, you’ve totally got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 11
Hey there, tech wiz! Those components around the socket are as delicate as a butterfly’s wing. So, keep that spudger tip away from the motherboard. You wouldn’t want to accidentally cause a glitch in the system, would you? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the display cable connector out of its cozy little socket on the motherboard. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to reconnect, just line up those connectors and give one side a gentle push down until you hear that satisfying click. Then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing in the middle! Align it right or those little pins could bend and we definitely don’t want that.
– If you notice any screen spots that are giving you the silent treatment post-repair, simply re-seat the connector. Make sure it pops into place snugly, and check that there’s no dust bunny or obstructions lurking in the socket.
– Before you wrap up, take a moment to pop some fresh adhesive around the edges of your display during reassembly. It’s like giving your device a hug!
Tools Used
Step 12
– Warm up that iOpener and give the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe a cozy two-minute hug to loosen up its adhesive.
Tools Used
Step 13
– Carefully slide the tip of your spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side that’s closest to the front-facing camera. You’re doing great!
– Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until it stands up nice and straight, making it perpendicular to the midframe. Keep it up!
Tools Used
Step 14
– Let’s get this party started! First, gently peel back the tiny piece of tape covering the screw under the earpiece speaker. If you see any other tape hiding screws, go ahead and peel those back too.
– Now, let’s remove these screws securing the midframe:
– Hey, remember, every screw is like a little friend, so keep track of them. You’ll want to make sure they all go back to their original homes when you’re done.
– Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws
– One 4 mm T5 Torx screw
Step 15
– Slide an opening tool into the little notch on the midframe near the hold button. You’ve got this!
– Gently pry the midframe up just enough to create a cozy gap between it and the phone case. Remember, we’re not taking it all the way off just yet!
Step 16
– Let’s get started by lifting the midframe from the bottom edge – it’s the first step to freeing it from the rest of the phone.
– As you make progress and the midframe is at about a 45° angle with the phone, gently lift it straight up and away – you’re doing great!
– Keep going, and be careful to guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe as you lift. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 18
– Alright, let’s gently disconnect that charging assembly connector from the motherboard. Using the flat end of your spudger, carefully pry it apart. It’s like giving the connector a little high five! Remember, be gentle – we don’t want to damage anything. If you’re feeling unsure, you can always schedule a repair with us.
Tools Used
Step 19
– Grab a trusty paperclip or SIM eject tool and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the left side of your phone. Give it a little push, and watch as the SIM card tray pops right out like a champ!
– Now, go ahead and remove the SIM card tray with ease.
Step 20
– Let’s get started by removing the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws – easy does it! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 21
– Unplug the two connectors located at the bottom edge of the motherboard. Take it easy, you got this!
Step 22
– Gently lift the motherboard with a trusty plastic opening tool, like you’re opening a treasure chest!
– Carefully take out the motherboard and set it aside as if it’s a delicate artifact.
Step 23
The motherboard has successfully said goodbye to the phone!
– Alright, flip that motherboard over and give it a little spin!
– Now, it’s time to give that fingerprint sensor cable a gentle farewell. Unplug it with care, my friend.
Step 24
– Time to free that rear camera! Gently pry up the camera connector with the pointed end of your trusty spudger.
– Now, give that camera a little wiggle and pull it free from the motherboard. You’re doing great!
– If your new camera module has a plastic spacer, make sure you toss it before you install the new part.
– One last thing: Before you install the camera, give that lens a quick clean! No smudges or dust allowed – keep it pristine.
Tools Used
