Google Pixel 3 Rear Facing Camera Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 35 Steps
Yo, just so you know, this nifty repair guide’s been crafted by the cool folks at iFixit, but not necessarily endorsed by Google. Wanna know more? Check it out here!
Hey there, tech wizards! This guide is here to help you rock that rear-facing camera swap on your Pixel 3. We’ll be taking the motherboard for a quick spin, but don’t worry, it’s a smooth ride. You can choose to completely remove it, which takes a little longer but makes things a bit easier. Keep an eye out for those grounding clips, they’re tiny but mighty. And if you’re feeling extra adventurous, you might be able to do this without taking out the loudspeaker, but it’s a bit trickier. Just know that if you do remove it, you’ll need to give it some extra TLC to keep the waterproof seal in tip-top shape. Need a helping hand? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom of the phone for a minute. Let’s get that device ready for some TLC!
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Step 2
Double-check that you’re working with the correct side – we don’t want you to accidentally mix up the screen and back cover.
Remember to use plastic tools to pry, as metal can damage or shatter the glass back cover. If it’s being stubborn, try applying a bit more heat with a hair dryer or heat gun. And if you’re still having trouble, don’t worry – you can always schedule a repair
Got a back cover that’s seen better days? Slap on some clear packing tape so the suction cup can stick.
If your phone has some years on it, you might need a bit of muscle. If you’re struggling, apply more heat and give it another go.
– First, attach a suction cup to the heated bottom edge of the back cover – this is where the magic begins.
– Now, use some steady force to lift that suction cup and create a gap – you’re making great progress!
– Next, take an opening pick and carefully insert it into the gap you just created. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 3
Alright, so when you’re sliding that opening pick in by the power button, keep an eye on things! Don’t go too deep, or you might get a little too friendly with the fingerprint sensor cable. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 4
– Alrighty, friends! Let’s get slicing! Start by following the bottom edge of your device all the way to the right corner. And remember, leaving a pick in there will be like a superhero halting the villainous adhesive! If you’re ever in need of a hand, remember that the folks at schedule a repair are ready to lend a helping hand!
Step 5
That adhesive can be super sticky! Just gently wiggle the pick back and forth like you’re sawing through it. That’ll help you cut through it.
– Gently warm up the right edge using an iOpener, then keep slicing through the adhesive with an opening pick. Take it slow and steady, you’re doing great!
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Step 6
When you’re slicing above the power button, remember to keep your pick no deeper than halfway. We want to protect that fingerprint sensor cable from any surprises!
– Keep heating and slicing around the phone, like you’re cutting a pizza! Leave a pick in each edge to stop the glue from sticking back together. It’s like giving the phone a little hug to keep it from closing up.
Step 7
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t try to take off the back cover just yet. It’s still connected to the phone by the fingerprint sensor cable, and we wouldn’t want any accidental mishaps!
– Alright, let’s get started! Gently slice all around the edge of your phone like you’re cutting the perfect piece of cake. Now, with a light touch, lift up the left side of the back cover.
– Next up, give that back cover a little flip along its long edge and lay it down nice and easy, making sure that the fingerprint sensor cable is comfy and not under any stress.
Step 8
– Let’s get started by removing the two 4.1 mm-long Phillips screws that hold the fingerprint connector bracket in place.
– As you work through this repair, make sure to keep track of each screw so you can put it back exactly where it came from – it’s like solving a puzzle.
– When you’re reassembling, be gentle with those screws and avoid over-tightening, or you might accidentally damage your display. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 9
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the tip under the fingerprint connector bracket, giving it a little slide to pop it free from the NFC coil. You’re doing great!
– Now, go ahead and lift that fingerprint connector bracket out. You’re one step closer to a smooth repair!
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Step 10
Hey there, when you’re unplugging connectors like these, give those tiny parts around the socket a little extra love – you don’t want to knock them loose! If you’re feeling a little unsure, you can always schedule a repair.
– Use the tip of a spudger to gently pry up and disconnect the fingerprint connector from its socket.
– To reconnect, carefully align the connector and press down on one side until it clicks into place. Then repeat on the other side. Don’t press down on the middle. If the connector isn’t lined up right, the pins could bend, and that’s bad news. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 11
– Pop off the back cover like a pro!
– Before slapping on that shiny new back cover, make sure you’ve cleaned up all that sticky residue from the phone frame. Grab an opening tool to gently scrape away the leftovers, and then use some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to wipe it all down—clean slate, here we come.
– Reusing your old back cover? No worries, just be sure to scrub off any old adhesive, and apply some fresh adhesive to make sure it sticks around.
– Installing a fresh back cover? Take a quick moment to compare it to your original one. Don’t forget to transfer any parts that need to make the move—like the flash diffuser—over to the new piece.
– Need a hand applying that new adhesive? Follow this guide to get it just right and stick it like a champ.
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Step 12
– Let’s get started by removing the five Phillips screws that hold the wireless charging coil in place:
– You’ll find two 1.9 mm screws, so be sure to keep track of them
– Next, remove the two 4.2 mm screws – they’re a bit longer, but just as easy to take out
– Finally, take out the one 4.3 mm screw, and you’ll be making great progress. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 13
– Alright, time to give that wireless charging coil a little lift and send it on its way. It’s like giving it a high five, but with less high fiving and more… removing.
Step 14
– Let’s get started by using the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from its socket, which you’ll find near the right edge of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 15
When it comes to standoff screws, the best tool is a standoff bit—it’s like the VIP pass for this job! If you’re in a bit of a jam, a small flathead screwdriver can save the day, but just be careful not to let it slip and take a tour of the nearby components. You’ve got this!
– Let’s get started by taking out those two screws holding down the camera bracket:
– Now, gently lift off the camera bracket.
– You’ll need one 4.1 mm Phillips screw.
– Don’t forget that one 4 mm standoff screw.
Step 16
When it’s time to swap out those front-facing cameras, make sure you know exactly which one needs a little TLC!
If you’re diving into the motherboard removal adventure, don’t forget to take out both cameras along the way!
– Capture those precious moments with the Normal view camera.
– Switch it up and get a wider perspective with the Wide-angle camera!
Step 17
– Time to get that camera working again. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the connector for the camera you’re replacing. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 18
The cameras are secured with some sticky stuff.
– Time to get this camera module out. Carefully insert the point of a spudger behind its edge and gently pry it up to loosen it from the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 19
– Grab a pair of blunt nose tweezers and carefully lift out the camera(s).
– If the adhesive is still in good shape, feel free to reuse it. Otherwise, swap it out with some trusty double-sided Tesa tape.
– When placing the new camera module, make sure the phone’s frame lens is clear of any leftover adhesive or debris for a smooth installation.
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Step 20
Hey there! When you’re using the spudger, be careful not to poke any holes in the battery. You don’t want to give it a little surprise, right? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop off the loudspeaker connector from its motherboard socket on the right edge of the phone. Need a hand? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 21
Don’t forget to pop that insert back in before you secure the daughterboard with screws!
– Let’s kick things off by unscrewing these four Phillips screws:
– Carefully remove the tiny grounding clip from the left screw hole. Keep an eye on it; it likes to play hide and seek!
– Next up, take out the small plastic insert chilling on the right side of the USB-C port.
– You’ll need to remove one 1.9 mm screw.
– Now, let’s grab that one 4.3 mm screw.
– Don’t forget to take out those two 4.3 mm screws with the slimmer shanks.
– When you put the grounding clip back, make sure the contoured edge is facing the left side of your phone. It’s a little trick to keep it snug!
Step 22
The loudspeaker is stuck in place with a strong adhesive gasket, so before you try to remove it, gently pry it up in a few spots to loosen the seal. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Gently slide the tip of a spudger under the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker.
– Carefully pry it up to free the loudspeaker from the phone.
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Step 23
Handle that spudger with care so the battery stays intact! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Slide the tip of a spudger beneath the top left corner of the loudspeaker.
– Gently pry it up to free the loudspeaker.
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Step 24
– Time to get this loudspeaker loose. Start by slipping the flat end of your trusty spudger under the top edge, near the left side.
– Gently pry it up to loosen the loudspeaker – you’re making great progress. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 25
– Time to say goodbye to that loudspeaker! Remove it with care.
– Before you pop in the new loudspeaker, take a quick look at the adhesive gasket.
– If it’s looking good, feel free to reuse it! Just double-check that it doesn’t block the exit hole.
– If the gasket has gone rogue, gently take it off and replace the adhesive with a snazzy pre-cut strip or Tesa tape.
Step 26
– Alrighty, tech enthusiasts! Time to disconnect that charging assembly from its home on the motherboard. Use a spudger, like a painter uses a brush, and gently pry up that connector. You’ll find it near the right edge of your phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
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Step 27
Avoid using metal tools for prying; they might play a little too rough and damage the flex cable.
– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the black tape that’s keeping the display flex cable snugly in place, right near the phone’s right edge. You’ve got this!
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Step 28
– Grab your trusty spudger and let’s get to work! Carefully pry up and disconnect these seven press-fit connectors from their cozy spots on the motherboard:
– External buttons connector
– Top microphone connector
– Earpiece connector
– Left squeeze sensor connector
– Screen connector
– Right squeeze sensor connector
– SIM tray connector
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Step 29
– Gently lift the earpiece speaker’s flex cable upwards with the flat side of a spudger, making sure it’s out of the way of the motherboard. Let’s keep it cozy up there!
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Step 30
Alright, so some of these screws are holding tiny little grounding clips in place. They’re super important, so don’t lose them! Just be careful as you remove the screws, and you’ll be golden.
Standoff screws are a little trickier, but we’ve got you covered. A standoff bit is your best bet, but if you don’t have one, a small flathead screwdriver will work in a pinch. Just be extra careful not to slip and damage anything. If you’re ever feeling unsure, you can always schedule a repair.
– Let’s kick things off by unscrewing the six screws that are keeping the motherboard snug and secure. You’ve got this!
– Next up, carefully detach and keep safe those three small metal grounding clips – they like to play hide and seek!
– You’ll need to tackle one 4.2 mm Phillips screw, so grab your trusty screwdriver.
– Don’t forget to remove three 1.9 mm Phillips screws; they’re not going anywhere but they need your attention!
– Then, there’s a singular 4.3 mm Phillips screw waiting to be freed from its duties.
– Lastly, there’s a 3.83 mm standoff screw that’s just itching for a good twist. Go ahead, give it a whirl!
Step 31
– Let’s get started by carefully removing the antenna bracket from the top left edge of your phone – take your time and be gentle.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, follow these steps to reinstall the small metal grounding clips:
– Make sure to orient the clips so the silver side is facing upwards – it’s an easy step, but an important one.
– For the teardrop shaped clips, point the tips towards the edge of your phone, and you’ll be all set.
– The double-holed clip is a bit trickier, but just remember it dips downwards towards the top-right screw hole on the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.
Step 32
– Gently slide the spudger’s point into the top left corner of the motherboard, just below where the rear-facing camera hangs out.
– Carefully pry it up to loosen the motherboard, making sure to bend all flex cables away to give it some room to breathe.
– If the motherboard seems stuck like it’s part of the family, check for any flex cables or screws that might still be holding it in place.
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Step 33
The flex cable for the earpiece speaker likes to snuggle up to the motherboard. So, take a deep breath and gently maneuver the motherboard around that cable like it’s a delicate dance. You’ve got this!
– Slide that spudger under the top edge of the motherboard and gently lift to loosen it up. You’re doing great!
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Step 34
Hey there! Just a heads up—don’t go trying to take the motherboard out completely. It’s still cozy with the frame thanks to a couple of antenna cables. Keep it together, and you’ll be golden!
– Gently lift the left edge of the motherboard and swing it up towards the right like you’re opening a book. Just make sure to nudge any pesky press connectors out of the way so they don’t get in your path.
– When it’s time to put the motherboard back in, keep an eye out for those sneaky flex cable connectors. We don’t want them getting trapped underneath, do we?
Step 35
– Grab your spudger and gently use its point to pop up and disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from its cozy spot on the motherboard.
– Carefully lift the camera module away from the motherboard, and don’t worry if you have to peel away some adhesive—it’s all part of the adventure!
– Now, go ahead and remove the rear-facing camera. You’ve got this!
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