Google Pixel 4a Front Camera Replace: DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
Hey there! This repair guide was written by the iFixit team, and it’s totally awesome! But remember, Google didn’t write this guide, so don’t blame them if anything goes wrong. Just sayin’. Learn more about our repair guides here. Also, the Pixel 4a’s screen is pretty delicate, so be careful not to crack it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Hey there, repair hero! This repair guide is your roadmap to swapping out the front-facing camera on your Google Pixel 4a. We’ve got your back, but remember, the Pixel 4a’s screen is a bit delicate. Keep an eye on those warnings in the opening steps, especially if you’re reusing the original screen. And hey, if you need a helping hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool, a bit, or even a straightened paper clip and gently slide it into the SIM tray hole.
– Give it a little push right into the hole to pop that SIM card tray out.
– Now, go ahead and pull out the SIM card tray with ease.
Step 2
Hey there! Watch out for that bright orange ribbon cable under the screen. It’s right under the lower-right corner. Be careful not to press your opening pick too hard on it. You don’t want to accidentally damage it. Just use your tool gently, and you’ll be good to go. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
It’s time to get that screen off your phone. Before you start, take a minute to read through these important notes to make sure you’re prepared. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Keep an eye on those two seams along the edge of your phone:
– Before diving in, take a moment to notice these areas on the screen:
– Screen seam: This little line separates the screen from the rest of your phone. It’s the spot where you’ll want to start prying.
– Frame seam: Here’s where the plastic frame meets the back cover, held together by screws. Best to leave this seam alone and not pry at it.
– Screen flex cable: Remember, don’t push that opening pick in deeper than suggested; we don’t want to damage this delicate cable.
– Adhesive perimeter: If you pry past this narrow boundary without angling the pick just right, you might end up doing some damage to the OLED panel.
Step 3
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can be used, but remember to be careful! Keep things cool, or the display and battery could get a little too toasty. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Give the right edge of the display a warm hug with a heated iOpener for about a minute to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Tools Used
Step 4
If your screen is badly cracked, don’t worry – we’ve got a trick for you. Try covering it with clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick. If that doesn’t work, you can use some seriously strong tape instead. And if all else fails, a little superglue can be your best friend to get that suction cup to stay put. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Get that suction cup close to the right edge of the screen, like you’re giving it a friendly hug.
– Now, give that suction cup a good lift, steady as she goes! No need to be shy.
– Take your opening pick and gently slide it into the seam – just a little bit, no more than 1mm. Think of it as a tiny, tiny door to the inside!
Step 5
Hold up! If you feel the pick hitting something solid, it might be the edge of the OLED panel. Adjust the angle and give it another go.
This step demonstrates how to carefully insert the pick without causing any harm to the OLED panel. Make sure to do this before you start slicing through the adhesive.
– Alright, let’s get this party started! With your trusty 1 mm pick, gently insert it into the gap between the device’s components. Now, tilt that pick upwards to a sassy angle, like you’re about to do a cool dance move.
– Okay, now with that pick at a steep angle, slide it in about 1/4 inch (6 mm) into the gap. You’ll feel it slipping in beneath the OLED panel. You’re doing great!
Step 6
Just a heads up! Don’t go crazy with that pick. Keep it gentle, less than 1/4 inch (6mm) deep. You don’t wanna mess with that flex cable, it’s pretty important for your screen to work. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 7
– Gently slide another opening pick into the right edge of your phone at a cozy angle where a gap has already popped up. This will help keep that OLED panel safe and sound!
– Now, glide that opening pick around the bottom of the phone to slice through the adhesive like a pro.
– Keep the pick snugly in place along the bottom edge to stop that adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 8
If the screen feels super tough to slice, don’t worry! Just give the left edge a quick warm-up with some heat for one minute and try again. You got this!
– Slide in another opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone, angling it just right where a gap has popped up—this keeps your OLED panel safe and sound.
– Now, use that trusty pick to glide along the left edge of the phone like a pro.
– Keep the pick in place along the left edge to stop that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.
Step 9
You’ll see a little mesh screen protecting the earpiece speaker on the top edge of your screen. If you’re not replacing it, be careful not to damage or lose this tiny but important part.
If the screen feels stubborn and doesn’t want to budge, give the top edge a quick heat-up for about a minute. Then try again. You’ve got this!
– Slide another opening pick into the left edge of your phone at just the right angle as a gap starts to form — this will keep your OLED panel safe and sound.
– Gently maneuver the pick around the top edge of the phone to slice through that pesky adhesive.
Step 10
Hold your horses there, partner! We’re not ready to pull the screen off just yet.
– After giving the perimeter of your phone a little snip-snip, gently lift the right edge of the screen, just like flipping open a book. Easy peasy!
– Grab an opening pick and delicately slice through any sticky bits that might still be holding things together. You’ve got this!
Step 11
Handle that ribbon cable with care—give it some love and don’t squeeze it too tight!
– Gently lift from the top edge and swing the screen down over the bottom edge until you can place it glass-side down like a pro.
Step 12
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift up the black tape that’s guarding the screen connector bracket. Take your time—this part is all about finesse!
– If the tape looks good as new, feel free to use it again when putting everything back together. If it’s seen better days, no worries! Just swap it out for some electrical tape.
Tools Used
Step 13
Keep it together – literally! During this repair, make sure to keep track of each screw and return it to its original spot. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Let’s get started! Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws that hold the screen connector bracket in place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 14
– Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully remove the screen connector bracket – it’s a delicate part, so be gentle!
– Hang on to this little guy, you’ll need to put it back where it belongs when you’re reassembling everything. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 15
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that screen flex cable. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to reconnect, simply align those connectors just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side—easy peasy! Remember, no need to press down in the middle; we want to keep those pins safe and sound. If you feel like you need an extra hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
As your device powers up after putting it back together, the screen will embark on a calibration adventure. Just sit back and resist the urge to poke the screen during this time—doing so might lead to some quirky touch responses. Let’s keep it smooth and hassle-free!
Take a peek at the third photo – it’s your guide for placing those sticky friends!
– Let’s take a peek inside! Pop off the screen real nice and gentle-like. Time for some new screen action? Make sure your shiny new screen comes with the fancy speaker mesh and top edge adhesive all pre-installed. If so, rock on! No need for any extra adhesive. Check out this easy peasy guide to apply that custom-cut adhesive if you need it. Don’t forget – you want that speaker mesh and top edge adhesive lining up just right. If it doesn’t come pre-installed, just peal back that larger clear liner and apply it to the screen. See that cutout? Make sure it matches up with the speaker mesh. If you’re feeling a bit stuck, don’t worry! You can always schedule a repair. Let’s get that screen looking fresh and ready to rock!
Step 17
– Let’s get started! Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws that hold the back cover in place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 18
– Let’s get this party started! Carefully slip an opening pick into the gap between the midframe and the back cover.
– Now, slide that opening pick along the bottom edge of your phone, like you’re giving it a little dance move, to loosen those pesky plastic clips holding the back cover in place. You got this!
Step 19
– Let’s get this party started! Slide the opening pick around the left edge of the phone to release the plastic clips holding the back cover in place. It’s like a little dance, but with tools!
Step 20
– Now, let’s slide that opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone. This will release the rest of those clips holding things in place. Easy peasy! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 21
– Gently swing the back cover from the bottom of the phone over the top and around the back, like you’re giving it a little dance move!
– Place the back cover on your work surface and softly rest the midframe on top, just make sure those ribbon cables aren’t feeling any pressure – they like to take it easy!
Step 22
– Use a T3 Torx driver to remove those seven screws holding the motherboard bracket together. You’ve got this!
– You’ll see three 2.9mm black screws, three 2mm screws, and one longer 4.1mm screw. Easy peasy, right?
Step 23
– Hey, let’s unclip this motherboard bracket with the spudger! Unclip from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard. Feeling accomplished? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 24
– Time to get up close and personal with your device’s internals! Use a trusty pair of tweezers to carefully remove the motherboard bracket. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 26
– Use the tip of a spudger to pop loose the two flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 27
– Let’s get started by removing the back cover. This is the first step in getting your device up and running again. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 28
– Gently lift with the flat end of a spudger to detach the front-facing camera from the motherboard. Keep it cool and steady, you’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 29
– Time to get up close and personal with your device’s front-facing camera! Use a trusty pair of tweezers to carefully remove it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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