How to Replace iPad 2 CDMA GPS Antenna Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 71 Steps
Hey there, repair champ! Just a friendly reminder to be cautious while working on your device. Keep those little screws and parts organized so they don’t play hide and seek! And if you hit a snag, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help.
Ready to tackle that GPS antenna sticker replacement? You’ve got this! It’s hanging out under the right cellular antenna assembly in your second generation iPad CDMA. Just a heads up, some parts of this guide were filmed with a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. No worries, though—the steps are the same for both models, except where we mention otherwise. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. Trust us, any leftover gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! Overheating can lead to a surprise burst, and we definitely don’t want that. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth repair experience.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, steer clear! Safety first, folks.
If the center of your iOpener is still a bit too hot to handle, feel free to keep using it while it cools down a little more. Just remember, a well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave!
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool off.
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Step 3
Caution: The iOpener gets really hot, so handle it with care! If it feels too toasty, don’t hesitate to grab an oven mitt.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot center.
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Step 4
Don’t have a microwave? No worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely submerge your iOpener.
– Heat that water until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully lower the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s completely under the surface.
– Using tongs, fish out the warm iOpener from the hot water. Watch out, it’s hot!
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry to make sure it’s nice and ready.
– Voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener relax in the hot water for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Make sure to rock those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen like the delicate gem it is!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep those pesky shards in check and ensure you stay safe during the repair. Grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the entire front is snugly wrapped up.
– Try to stick to the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass starts to break, it might keep cracking while you work. You may find it handy to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: as you dive into this repair, you might encounter some broken glass. We highly suggest sporting a pair of safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Safety first, folks!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure to smooth it out for a solid connection between the iPad and the iOpener.
– Give the bag a little time to work its magic on the iPad—about 90 seconds should do the trick—before you start prying open that front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that little wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic tool a little wiggle here and there to help it along. You’ve got this!
– There’s a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!
– Position your tool so it’s lined up with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip of the tool, enough to create a little more space.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about 0.5 inches for a smooth entry.
Step 12
The adhesive is super sticky, so be prepared to give it a good tug. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently tug it out a smidge. While it’s perfectly safe to have the pick this deep, it might leave a bit of sticky residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, releasing that pesky adhesive as you go.
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad while you peel away the adhesive. The timing of this depends on how long your iPad has been chilling while you were busy with other tasks.
– If your opening pick decides to play hide and seek in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep freeing up that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick out from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat, then place it on the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Due to the way the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to handle it carefully to avoid any permanent hiccups with the antenna.
– Take a deep breath and get ready—it’s time to proceed with care! We’ve got some delicate work ahead.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel. Just be extra careful not to harm those sensitive parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the upcoming steps closely, and you’ll do great!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t slide that pick any further than the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, and watch the adhesive peel away like magic!
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner and can get a little too cozy if the adhesive gets released the wrong way. Let’s keep it safe and sound!
Just give that pick a little wiggle! Keep it snugly tucked under the front glass—about 1/8″ (3 mm) should do the trick. No need to pull it all the way out!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, as you release the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Now that you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), it’s time to slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– With a smooth motion, slide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep your iOpener chill! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and make sure to give it a cool two-minute break before you heat it up again.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, give that iOpener a little extra heat to warm things up where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
– Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom of the iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to dance around the home button, then slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re past the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad! You’re doing great!
– Pop that opening pick in just under the front glass by the home button and let it chill there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has turned into a cool breeze, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep on working your magic. If your iOpener has decided to chill out too much, give it a little reheat to get back in the game.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is quite robust, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be careful not to slip and hurt yourself or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s getting stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit clingy, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task.
– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the top of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out around 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to stop sliding that pick when you reach about 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, peeling away that pesky adhesive as you go. The sticky stuff is a bit thinner here because of the digitizer, so keep it light! Just a friendly tip: try not to go too deep (max 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the base of your iPad. Take your time and watch out—let’s not accidentally cut that cable!
– With your trusty opening pick still hanging out under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently coax the adhesive free from the bottom left corner. Remember, patience is key!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently nudge up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped, give it a friendly little pinch with your fingers to hold it in place!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s still keeping that front panel in place.
– With your iPad cradled in your hands at the top and bottom right corners, give that front glass a little twist away from the iPad, like you’re opening a book full of surprises!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to gently whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you snug the glass back in place.
Step 28
– Get ready to tackle this task! First, let’s take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– To reach the front panel ribbon cables hiding beneath the LCD, you’ll need to give the LCD a little flip—just a gentle nudge and it’ll be out of the way for you!
– Start by lifting the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and carefully flipping it back, just like you’re turning a page in your favorite book.
– Once you’ve done that, place the LCD face down on the front panel, and you’re all set!
Step 30
Remember to gently lift the hinged retaining flap and not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Grab that handy plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. You got this!
– Slide the plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to release it from the sticky stuff holding it down on the rear panel. Easy peasy!
– Now, simply pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’re on a roll!
Step 31
– Unscrew those two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack snugly against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
Hold your horses! It’s not time to yank out that assembly just yet.
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the headphone jack out from its cozy spot in the top edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– Gently peel away the front camera and microphone cables from the rear panel like you’re unveiling a surprise gift!
Step 34
– Gently peel back the tape that’s covering the front camera cable connector. It’s like unwrapping a little gift!
– Grab a plastic opening tool and use the edge to carefully disconnect the front camera cable from the headphone jack cable. You’re doing great!
Step 35
– Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that’s connected to the headphone jack. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it along the edge to disconnect that microphone cable connector. You’ve got this!
Step 37
– Gently pop out the headphone jack from your iPad 2.
Step 38
Just a friendly reminder: when you’re prying those hinged retaining flaps, make sure you’re not getting too cozy with the sockets themselves!
Check out the second picture to spot those retaining flaps – they’re marked in red for your convenience!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift up the retaining flaps on the two ZIF sockets for the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
Step 39
– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable and coax it away from the shields on the logic board. You got this!
– With a little care, peel the digitizer cable off the adhesive that’s holding it snug against the side of the rear case. Almost there!
Step 40
– Gently tug the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy little sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 41
To detach the front panel assembly, gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. You might need to shift the LCD a bit to create some space. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s furthest away from the digitizer cable, and gracefully swing it back towards the rear case—think of it as closing a book with style.
– While keeping the LCD elevated, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a heads up—watch out for the digitizer cable; we don’t want it getting caught on the rear case or LCD.
Step 42
To dive into the inner workings of your iPad, we first need to gently lift the LCD out of its cozy case.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case, just like you’re turning a page in a book. Easy peasy!
– Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath can work wonders to keep it scratch-free. You’ve got this!
Step 43
Hey there! When you’re disconnecting that connector, remember to keep it level and avoid pulling it straight up. You got this!
– Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel like it’s taking a well-deserved break.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and give that display data cable lock a little nudge upwards.
– Now, give a gentle pull to the display data cable and let it slip out of its cozy socket.
Step 44
– Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 45
Just a heads up—watch out for the camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables as you peel off that tape. We don’t want any casualties in this repair adventure!
– Carefully peel away the tape that’s keeping the front-facing camera’s ribbon cable snug and secure.
Step 46
– Gently peel the front camera away from the foam adhesive that’s keeping it snug on the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 47
– Gently wiggle the front-facing camera cable free from its cozy little home in the rear panel.
– Carefully detach the front-facing camera from your iPad and give it a little send-off!
Step 48
– First things first, if there’s a piece of tape blocking the dock connector cable, go ahead and remove it. We want everything to be free and clear!
– Next up, grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry the dock connector cable’s connector away from its cozy spot on the logic board. Take your time, you got this!
– Finally, peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel. It should come off smoothly—like a well-practiced dance move!
Step 49
– Slide the prying tool gently underneath the four wires at the end of the connector and carefully lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board. Remember, don’t pry from the other end of the connector—doing so could break the four solder points underneath the socket, which means you might need a microsolder repair later on. Let’s keep it smooth and easy!
Step 50
Keep it cool and don’t pull the cable up when disconnecting it!
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift up the retainer that’s holding the upper component board cable connector snugly in its socket on the logic board.
– Now, carefully wiggle the connector away from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 51
– Let’s get started! First, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove those two 2.1 mm screws that are keeping the logic board bracket snug against the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket.
– Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift the logic board bracket off the rear case and set it aside. You’re doing great!
Step 52
– Start by unscrewing those four little 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic and communications boards snugly against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 53
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the logic board up from the rear case. You’ve got this!
– Since the logic board is stuck to the rear case, take your time and peel it away slowly and evenly. We want to lift that glue without causing any harm to the board. You’re doing great!
Step 54
Hey there! Just a heads up: don’t attempt to take out the logic board entirely. It’s still hanging on to three antenna cables, and we wouldn’t want any accidental breakage!
– Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and give it a little twist towards the battery. You’re doing great!
Step 55
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently disconnect that cellular data antenna cable from its cozy spot on the communications board. You’ve got this!
Step 56
– Unscrew the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw that’s holding down the cellular data antenna cable to the back of the device. You’ve got this!
Step 58
– Carefully lift the cellular data antenna away from the rear case using a plastic opening tool. Take your time and enjoy the process!
Step 59
– Carefully lift the cellular data antenna out of its cozy spot in the iPad casing.
– Gently guide the cellular data antenna cable through the nifty channel in the rear panel, and take the antenna out of the device with ease.
Step 60
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry away the right antenna cable from its cozy little socket on the communications board.
Step 61
– Unscrew the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw that’s holding the right cellular antenna snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 62
Time to get your hands a little sticky! Carefully peel away those three pieces of tape that are holding the right cell antenna cable snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 63
– Carefully pop the antenna out from the back case using a plastic opening tool—no need to rush, take your time!
– Gently lift and detach the right cellular data antenna from your iPad 2. You’re doing great!
Step 64
– Peel off any tape that’s blocking the way to the GPS antenna ZIF connector. Let’s get that tech ready to roll!
Step 66
The GPS antenna is like a sneaky little sticker hiding at the bottom of the right cellular data antenna’s compartment. As you start to gently coax it out in the upcoming steps, be prepared for a possible tear or break. If you’re on a mission to save that antenna, make sure to use some heat and proceed with caution – we believe in you!
Step 68
Taking out the GPS antenna can be a bit of a puzzle. The approach we’re sharing in the next steps worked wonders for us. Just a friendly reminder: only dive into this guide if you’re swapping in a shiny new GPS antenna, as trying to remove the old one without a replacement could lead to some serious antenna heartbreak.
– With a trusty pair of tweezers in hand, carefully lift the GPS antenna cable to start peeling the antenna away from the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 71
– Once you’ve got a good grip on that GPS antenna, gently peel it away from the rear case to detach it. You’re doing great!
