How to Replace iPad 2 CDMA Left Cellular Data Antenna
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Heads up! Before diving into this repair, make sure you have a clean workspace and all the tools you need. It’s all about keeping things organized and smooth sailing. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair. Let’s get this done!
Get ready to swap out that Left Cellular Data Antenna! Just a heads-up: some of the shots in this guide feature a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different than your cellular version. No worries, though! The steps are pretty much the same for both models, except where we’ve pointed out differences. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before you dive in. Trust us, you don’t want any leftover gunk getting cozy with your iOpener!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair session! Letting it get too hot can lead to some dramatic results, like bursting. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, it’s best to give it some space—don’t touch it!
If the middle of your iOpener is still feeling like a hot potato, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should keep the warmth for about 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your tool!
– As you work through your repair, keep the iOpener feeling good by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Just think of it as giving your buddy a quick refresh!
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Step 3
Careful now! That iOpener is going to be hotter than a summer day, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might just become your new best friend!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that toasty center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener in some boiling water with this step.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Get that water boiling, then turn off the heat. We’re not trying to cook dinner here!
– Now, gently place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and soaking up all that warmth.
– Using some trusty tongs, carefully lift the heated iOpener out of the hot water. Watch out, it’s toasty!
– Give the iOpener a good drying with a towel. We want it nice and dry before we put it to work.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to tackle whatever comes its way. If you ever need to reheat it, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some tape and cover that glass to prevent further shattering and keep yourself safe during the repair.
– Start by laying down overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad’s display until the entire surface is shielded.
– Now, follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once that glass is cracked, it might keep cracking while you work. You may want to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the broken pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re diving into this repair, you might come across some sharp glass bits. So, why not play it safe and rock those safety glasses? Protect your peepers from any unexpected flying shards!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a little wiggle to ensure it makes solid contact with the surface. We want that warmth to spread, so smooth it out nicely!
– Now, let that bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds. This will make it easier to pop open the front panel like a pro!
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle! Give the tool a little wiggle back and forth as needed, and you’ll be on your way to a successful repair in no time.
– Look closely at your iPad, and you’ll spot a little gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This is your golden opportunity!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just sneak in the very tip of the tool—enough to create a little wiggle room.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly in the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that space, right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Carefully take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and gently slide the opening pick further beneath the front glass, aiming for about half an inch deep. You’ve got this!
Step 12
This adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner Hercules! Just take your time and work with care.
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a bit. While using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, it might leave some adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a little heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
– Take your trusty opening pick and glide it down the edge of the iPad, carefully releasing the adhesive along the way.
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad as you peel off the adhesive. This all depends on how long your iPad has been cooling down while you were busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit too snug in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff. You’ve got this!
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from playing tricks and sticking back down.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of your iPad.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of your iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given its unique position, be sure to tread carefully—one wrong move could lead to some serious Wi-Fi antenna woes!
– Alright, folks! Time to put on your superhero capes because the next steps call for some serious caution.
– Carefully detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, but watch out for those fragile parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to let go of that stubborn adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly tucked in that corner and could get a bit too cozy if the adhesive isn’t treated with care. Let’s avoid any accidental snips, shall we?
Keep that pick snugly tucked under the front glass—just a smidge! Pull it out a tad, leaving about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip still cozy under there.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, carefully peeling back the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Once you’ve glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener toasty, but not too toasty! Heat it for just a minute at a time, and give it a little break of at least two minutes before you give it another go. Your device will thank you for it!
– Keep gently releasing the sticky stuff along the bottom of your iPad. Wiggle that opening pick around the home button, and once you’re past it, slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Just leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass close to the home button.
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep going! If it feels a little chilly, give it a warm-up before diving back in.
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket. You’ve got this!
– The adhesive in this area is quite sticky, so don’t be shy about putting in some elbow grease. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s getting caught in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a smoother experience. But if it’s still a bit clingy, just give that iOpener another warm-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work!
– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out around 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to stop sliding that pick when you reach about 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom—it’s a sweet spot!
– Gently slide the opening pick down the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that adhesive as you go. The adhesive is a bit shy here because of the digitizer running along the whole left side. Just remember, keep the pick shallow (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be super careful, folks! The bottom of that digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid any mishaps with that cable!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free up the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
It looks like some of that adhesive around the iPad’s edge may have decided to stick around a little longer than expected. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it underneath the stubborn edge where the front glass is still holding on. Give that adhesive a little ‘snip’ and you’ll be back on track in no time!
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s up, give it a friendly pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky spots that are keeping the front panel in place. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away like you’re unveiling a masterpiece.
– When putting it all back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any dust bunnies or fingerprints from the LCD before you snug that glass back in place.
Step 28
– Take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away beneath the LCD. To get to them, just flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest the volume buttons and swing it out of the rear case—just like flipping a page in your favorite book!
– Now, place the LCD face down on the front panel. You’re doing great!
Step 30
Make sure you’re gently prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. You’re doing great!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. You’re off to a great start!
– Now, slide that plastic opening tool under the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to detach it from the sticky adhesive that’s holding it tight against the rear panel. Almost there!
– With a steady hand, pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Take out those two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Let’s not rush into removing the assembly just yet.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax that headphone jack out of its snug little home at the top edge of your iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel, like peeling a banana. Easy does it!
Step 34
– Gently peel back the strip of tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector under wraps.
– Take a plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the front camera cable away from the headphone jack cable to disconnect them.
Step 35
– Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that’s hanging out with the headphone jack.
Step 36
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry at the edge to disconnect that microphone cable connector. You’re doing great!
Step 37
– Gently detach the headphone jack from your iPad 2. You’re doing great!
Step 38
Remember to gently pry up on the hinged retaining flaps and not on the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in a vibrant red for your convenience!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge those retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets to flip them up. You’ve got this!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a careful hand, ease the digitizer cable off the sticky adhesive that’s holding it snugly against the side of the rear case. Take your time!
Step 40
– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable and pull it straight out of its two snug little homes on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 41
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll want to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some space. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s farthest from the digitizer cable and flip it towards the back case—think of it like closing a book with a twist!
– While keeping the LCD elevated, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a friendly reminder to watch out for that digitizer cable so it doesn’t get caught on the back case or LCD.
Step 42
To dive into the iPad’s inner workings, let’s gently pop the LCD out of its cozy case.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book, but with a little more finesse.
– Carefully place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath will help keep those pesky scratches at bay.
Step 43
Hey there! When you’re disconnecting that connector, remember to keep it level and gently slide it out of its socket. No need to pull it up like you’re trying to lift weights!
– Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel like they’re best buddies.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and lift the display data cable lock upwards with a gentle nudge.
– Carefully slide the display data cable out of its cozy socket.
Step 44
– Carefully detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Step 45
Watch out for the camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables while you’re peeling off that tape. We wouldn’t want any accidental mishaps!
– Gently peel away the tape that’s holding down the ribbon cable for the front-facing camera. You’ve got this!
Step 46
– Gently lift the front camera away from the foam adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear panel.
Step 47
– Gently slide the front-facing camera cable out of its snug little home in the rear panel.
– Carefully detach the front-facing camera from your iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 48
– First things first, if there’s a piece of tape hiding the end of the dock connector cable, let’s get rid of that! Peel it off with care.
– Now, grab a plastic opening tool and gently nudge the dock connector cable’s connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board. You’re doing great!
– Lastly, it’s time to peel that dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel. Easy does it!
Step 49
– Slide the prying tool gently under the four wires at the end of the connector and lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its home on the logic board. Remember, don’t pry from the other side of the connector, or you might just end up breaking those four tiny solder points underneath the socket, which would mean a microsolder repair is in your future. Let’s avoid that, shall we?
Step 50
Keep that cable level as you disconnect it, no need to give it a lift!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retainer that’s holding the upper component board cable connector snugly in its socket on the logic board.
– Now, with a little finesse, pull that connector away from its home on the logic board.
Step 51
– Let’s get started! First, grab your trusty screwdriver and take out those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic board bracket snugly to the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket.
– Once those screws are out, gently lift the logic board bracket away from the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 52
– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Unscrew those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 53
– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully lift the logic board away from the rear case. It’s a bit like peeling a sticker, but a lot more important!
– Since the logic board is stuck to the rear case, take your time and gently work your way around to loosen the glue. We want to keep the board safe and sound while we do this.
Step 54
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t go trying to yank the logic board out completely just yet. It’s still connected to three antenna cables that need to be handled with care!
– Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case, giving it a little twist towards the battery as you go.
Step 55
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry the cellular data antenna cable out from its cozy spot on the communications board. You’re doing great!
Step 56
– Time to get to work! Start by removing the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw that’s holding the cellular data antenna cable snug against the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 58
– Carefully use a plastic opening tool to nudge the cellular data antenna away from the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 59
– Carefully lift the cellular data antenna out of its cozy spot in the iPad casing.
– Gently guide the cellular data antenna cable through the nifty channel cut in the rear panel, and then free the antenna from the device.
