How to Replace iPad 2 CDMA Logic Board Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 52 Steps
Hey there, tech wizard! Just a friendly reminder to handle your device with care during this repair journey. If you hit a snag or need a helping hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!
Get ready to swap out that logic board! Just a heads up, some of the images in this guide were taken with a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different than your cellular model. No worries though—the steps are pretty much the same for both, unless we say otherwise. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before you dive in. A quick clean-up will ensure that any pesky residue doesn’t cling to your iOpener during the process.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it owns the place.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! You don’t want it to get too hot, or it might just pop on you. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener looks like it’s been working out and is a bit puffy, steer clear of it!
If the center of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, no worries! Just hang tight and let it cool down a bit more before giving it another heat session. A well-heated iOpener should stay nice and cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a cozy thirty seconds in the microwave to warm up.
– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener; when it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the good vibes going.
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Step 3
Careful there! The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt could come in handy!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Safety first, right?
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Step 4
If you’re not rocking a microwave, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
– Heat that water up until it’s bubbling away, then turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a nice soak and is fully underwater.
– Using some tongs, fish out that warm iOpener from the pot.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry—nobody likes a soggy iOpener!
– And voila! Your iOpener is all set and ready to go! If you ever need to give it another warm-up, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Don your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – we want it in one piece!
– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from getting any worse and protect yourself while you tackle this repair by using some tape to hold the glass together.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until the entire front is covered. You’ll be glad you did!
– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work. You might find yourself needing a metal prying tool to gently scoop the glass out. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 6
Just a heads up! While you’re getting your hands dirty with this repair, keep in mind that broken glass can be a bit of a handful. So, make sure to pop on those safety glasses to shield your peepers from any sneaky shards that might try to escape.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and smooth for a solid connection between the iPad and the iOpener.
– Give the bag a cozy 90-second break on the iPad before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as you go. You’ve got this!
– There’s a tiny little opening in the adhesive ring on the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this small flaw!
– Position your tool by the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip, enough to gently pry it open a bit.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently ease a plastic opening pick into the gap right alongside the tool. You’ve got this!
Step 10
– Take that plastic opening tool out from your iPad’s clutches, and gently slide the opening pick even further under the front glass, aiming for a cozy depth of about 0.5 inches.
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero for this one. Take your time and be gentle!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a tad. While it’s totally safe to have the pick inserted this deep, you might end up with a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a little reminder to keep things tidy!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s start peeling back that sticky adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive bit by bit. You’re doing great!
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might find it handy to reposition the warmed iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little move can make a big difference, especially if your iPad has had a bit of time to cool down while you’ve been busy.
– If the opening pick decides to stick around in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff up. You’ve got this!
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Step 14
– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Given the way the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to take your time and be careful—otherwise, you might end up causing some serious harm to the antenna. So, let’s keep our cool and handle it gently!
– Take a deep breath and prepare for some careful maneuvering ahead!
– Your mission is to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep those delicate connections to the bottom of the iPad intact. So, let’s proceed with a steady hand and a watchful eye!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder not to slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. Doing so might give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love and cause some damage. Keep it cool and safe!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing it from the sticky stuff that’s holding it down.
Step 17
Carefully glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna hanging out near the corner – it’s a bit shy and can get snipped if the adhesive is tackled the wrong way.
Just gently pull the pick out from under the front glass—no need to go all the way! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked away under the glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the edge of your opening pick along the bottom of the iPad to free up that adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve successfully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Gently slide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep it cool, friend! Don’t heat that iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and be sure to give it a breather for at least two minutes before you heat it up again.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, just give that iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you’re working. Let’s keep that sticky situation under control!
– Keep sliding that adhesive away from the bottom of the iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past that little button, pop the pick back in to about half an inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep going and peel back that adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Once you’re in, leave that trusty opening pick wedged snugly underneath the front glass, right near the home button.
Step 22
If your adhesive has taken a chill, just swap out the iOpener along the top edge and keep at it! And if your iOpener is feeling a bit too cool, give it a little reheating to get back in the game.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is pretty robust, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any mishaps that could hurt you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still pretty clingy, just give the iOpener another heat-up and set it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. Remember, you’ve got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Time to hit the brakes on that pick when you get to around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom—trust us, your device will thank you!
– Gently slide the opening pick down the left side of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. Since the adhesive is a bit lighter here due to the digitizer, you won’t have to wrestle with it too much. Just remember to keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Careful now! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and be gentle, so you don’t accidentally snip this cable!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work to free the adhesive that’s holding things down in the bottom left corner.
Step 26
– Take one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once you’ve pried it up, grab hold of it with your fingers and get ready to dive in!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might still be holding the front panel in place. Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s putting up a fight.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a little twist away from the device. It’s like a gentle dance move!
– When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to pamper that LCD! Use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to whisk away any dust bunnies or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.
Step 28
– Time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips #0 screwdriver and carefully remove the four 2.0 mm screws that are holding the LCD to the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 29
– To get to those sneaky front panel ribbon cables hiding beneath the LCD, you’ll need to gently flip the LCD over and out of the way for a moment.
– Start by lifting the LCD from the long edge near the volume buttons, and carefully flip it out of the rear case—like you’re turning the page of a captivating book.
– Now, lay the LCD face down on the front panel, giving it a cozy spot to rest.
Step 30
Just a friendly reminder: make sure you’re gently prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. You’ve got this!
– Slide the plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to gently detach it from the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear panel. Easy peasy!
– Carefully pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Just like that, you’re making progress!
Step 31
– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are holding the headphone jack snugly to the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Removing the assembly can wait a bit longer.
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the headphone jack out from its snug little spot in the top edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel, taking your time to avoid any snags.
Step 34
– Gently peel away the tape that’s holding down the front camera cable connector—think of it as giving your device a little spa treatment!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the front camera cable away from the headphone jack cable. It’s like giving your tech a little hug to help them part ways!
Step 35
– Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that’s connected to the headphone jack. Take your time and be careful, you’ve got this!
Step 36
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it along the edge to pop that microphone cable connector loose. You’ve got this!
Step 38
Remember to gently pry up on those hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in a bright red. They’re easy to spot, so you’ll know exactly what to look for!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You’re doing great—keep it steady!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. It’s a delicate dance, so take your time!
– Now, with a gentle tug, peel the digitizer cable off the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the side of the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 40
– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable and pull it straight out from its two cozy sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 41
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll need to slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some space and you’re golden!
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s furthest from the digitizer cable and carefully fold it back like you’re closing a book—easy does it!
– While you’re holding the LCD up, smoothly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a heads up—watch out for that digitizer cable, don’t let it get caught on the rear case or the LCD!
Step 42
To dive into the inner workings of the iPad, we’ll need to gently lift the LCD out of its cozy home in the case.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning the page of your favorite book.
– Carefully lay the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath can help keep it scratch-free and happy.
Step 43
Keep it cool and don’t yank that connector straight up when you’re unplugging it from its socket!
– Gently place the LCD right beside the rear panel, giving it a cozy spot.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the display data cable lock upwards.
– With a little finesse, slide the display data cable out of its socket and set it free.
Step 44
– Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly. Take your time and enjoy the process!
Step 45
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently peel away the tape that’s holding down the dock connector cable. It’s like unwrapping a gift, but way cooler!
– Next, take the edge of that trusty plastic opening tool and nudge the dock connector cable’s connector upwards from its cozy spot on the logic board. Be gentle, you got this!
– Finally, let’s liberate that dock connector ribbon cable from the rear panel. Just peel it off like a pro!
Step 46
– Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy little home on the logic board.
Step 47
– Start by unscrewing those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic board bracket snugly to the rear case, right next to the digitizer cable socket. You’ve got this!
– Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift the logic board bracket off the rear case. Easy peasy!
Step 48
Be gentle when disconnecting the cable; just a little wiggle is all it needs—no need to lift it up like you’re trying to fly!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the retainer to lift it up, freeing the control board cable connector from its snug spot on the logic board.
– Now, give that connector a gentle pull to release it from the logic board, and you’re on your way!
Step 49
– Unscrew the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel. Let’s get those boards free!
Step 50
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: when you’re working with the logic board, try not to lift it too high off the back case. We’ve got some antennas hanging out down there, and we don’t want them to feel neglected!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board away from the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 51
– Gently lift the top of the logic board and unplug those two antennas hanging out on the left side.
– Swing the logic board towards the center of the iPad and disconnect that last antenna chilling at the top.
– Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna from the bottom of the logic board and give it a little wave goodbye.
