How to Replace iPad 2 CDMA Rear Facing Camera Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Hey there, repair superstar! Just a quick reminder: make sure to handle all components with care and keep your workspace tidy. If you run into any bumps along the way or feel a bit lost, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. We’re here to help you shine!
Get ready to tackle the rear-facing camera replacement! Keep in mind that this guide features a Wi-Fi model, so the insides may look a bit different from your cellular version. No worries, though—the process is pretty much the same for both, except where we point out differences. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before diving in, give your microwave a quick clean-up! A little tidying can prevent any stubborn mess from sticking to your iOpener. Trust us, your future self will thank you!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!
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Step 2
Take it easy with the iOpener during your repair—nobody wants a dramatic overheating situation! Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) to avoid any surprise bursts.
If the iOpener looks a bit puffed up, give it some space and don’t touch it.
If the center of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, keep using it while you let it cool down a bit before giving it another heat session. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your gadget!
– Keep the good vibes going throughout the repair—if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.
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Step 3
Caution: the iOpener is going to be hot, hot, hot! Handle it with care and grab an oven mitt if you need to. Stay safe and keep those fingers happy!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers away from the hot center. Stay cool and safe!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
– Bring that water to a boil, then turn off the heat. No need to keep it bubbling!
– Carefully pop the iOpener into the warm water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s completely submerged and enjoying the heat.
– Use some tongs to safely fish out the warm iOpener from its steamy spa.
– Give the iOpener a good towel-dry. We want it nice and dry for action!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is ready to rock! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the water boiling and soaking routine for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those snazzy safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more fragile than it looks!
– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! Let’s keep that breakage under control and keep you safe while you work by slapping some tape on it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay it down in overlapping strips across your iPad’s screen until you’ve got the whole face covered like a protective shield.
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Remember, once that glass is broken, it might crack a bit more while you’re at it, so you might need a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re tackling this repair, you might encounter some sharp glass bits. We highly recommend sporting a pair of safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Stay safe and keep it cool!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s snug and cozy against the surface for a solid connection.
– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you dive in and open that front panel.
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Step 7
You might need to apply a little muscle to slide that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle back and forth when needed. You’ve got this!
– Look closely and you’ll spot a tiny little gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad—about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s like a secret door just waiting for you to take advantage of it!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack will do the trick!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right alongside the tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take that handy plastic opening tool out of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass until it’s about 0.5 inches deep. You’re doing great!
Step 12
This adhesive is pretty tough, so you might need to put in some serious elbow grease. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a bit. No worries, using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might leave a little adhesive goo on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, freeing the adhesive bit by bit.
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Step 13
As you gently peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad. This little dance depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you were busy working your magic.
– If your trusty opening pick decides to play hide and seek in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad. Keep on rolling to help free that sticky stuff and get back to your repair journey!
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down. Teamwork makes the dream work!
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great, keep it up!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given how it’s positioned, it’s super important to handle this part with care to avoid any permanent damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
– Alright, folks! Time to tread lightly here. These next few steps need a gentle touch.
– We need to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while making sure not to mess with those delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s take it step by step and keep it cool!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads up—don’t slide that pick too far past the bottom right corner. It could put a dent in your Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, freeing up the sticky adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
Take your opening pick and gently glide it along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Be careful, though! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner and can get a bit cranky if the adhesive isn’t released just right.
Keep that pick snug under the front glass—just pull it out a tad, leaving about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip still cozied up under there. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to release the adhesive covering the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Once you’ve glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), it’s time to reinsert that trusty opening pick all the way in.
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy with the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener toasty, but don’t go over a minute at a time! Give it a little break of at least two minutes before you heat it up again. Patience is key, my friend!
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, give that iOpener another heat-up session to warm things up where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
– Keep sliding that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad, gently pulling the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve passed the home button, pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive away along the bottom edge of the iPad like a champ!
– Make sure to leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass near the home button. It’s doing a great job holding the fort!
Step 22
If your adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going! And if the iOpener itself is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat to bring it back to life.
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This area has some seriously sticky adhesive, so you might need to apply a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm either you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling warm enough, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still clinging on, just warm up that iOpener again and place it on the left edge while you get to work. You’ve got this!
– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re about 2.25 inches (60 mm) away from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. Don’t worry, the adhesive is pretty thin along this side because of the digitizer. Just remember to keep the pick’s depth to a maximum of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid snipping this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently unstick the adhesive in the bottom left corner. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 26
Looks like some of that adhesive around the iPad’s edges might have decided to stick around a bit longer than we’d like. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still hanging on. Give that adhesive a little ‘snip snip’ and you’re on your way!
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel in place. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like giving it a little hug and a nudge!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any dust bunnies or fingerprints from the LCD before you snug that glass back in place.
Step 28
– Unscrew those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws holding the LCD to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away beneath the LCD. To get to them, you’ll want to gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
– Start by lifting the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and carefully flipping it out of the rear case—think of it like turning the page in a book.
– Once that’s done, place the LCD face down on the front panel. You’re doing great!
Step 30
– Gently peel back the rubber cover from the metal camera retainer and take it off the iPad 2. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Make sure that the little thermal pad is snugly attached to the metal retaining clip, just like you see in the third picture when you’re swapping out the rear camera. You’ve got this!
– Unscrew those two little troublemakers!
– Gently lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its cozy spot in the rear panel.
Step 32
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the rear camera connector up from its cozy spot on the upper component board. It’s like giving it a little lift to say, ‘Hey there!’
– Now, go ahead and carefully remove the rear camera. You’re doing great!
