How to Replace iPad 2 CDMA Right Cellular Data Antenna
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 63 Steps
Hey there! Before you dive into the repair, remember to unplug your device and keep those pesky screws organized. We don’t want any parts playing hide and seek! And if things get a bit tricky, don’t hesitate to reach out for some professional help. Just schedule a repair and we’ll be happy to assist!
Get ready to swap out that pesky cellular data antenna in your second generation iPad 2 CDMA! Just a heads up, some images in this guide feature a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different. But don’t sweat it! The steps are basically the same for both versions, with a few exceptions noted here and there. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in! A quick clean-up will help ensure that any pesky residue doesn’t stick to the iOpener. Trust us, your future self will thank you!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating can lead to a surprise burst, and nobody wants that. Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth experience.
If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it a break and don’t touch it!
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before giving it another go. A perfectly warmed iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave!
– As you work through the repair, remember to reheat your iOpener for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Keep the warmth flowing!
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Step 3
Careful now! The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care. Oven mitts are your friends here if you need them!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from that toasty center!
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Step 4
If you don’t have a microwave handy, no worries! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener in some boiling water.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Heat that water up until it’s bubbling away. Once it’s boiling, turn off the heat.
– Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water and let it chill for 2-3 minutes, ensuring it’s fully submerged.
– Using tongs, carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water. Watch out, it’s hot!
– Give your iOpener a good drying off with a towel – we want it nice and dry for action.
– And there you have it! Your iOpener is all set for use. If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the hot water bath for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep the shards at bay and save your fingers during the repair—grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Stick overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad’s display until the entire surface is sealed. You’ve got this!
– Try your best to stick to the rest of the guide as laid out. Just a heads up, once the glass is cracked, it may keep on cracking as you work. You might want to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: while you’re diving into this repair, you might encounter some pesky broken glass. To keep your peepers safe from any flying bits, we highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses. Stay safe and happy repairing!
– Place the iOpener flat on the right side of your iPad, ensuring it’s snugly positioned for optimal warmth and contact. We want it to feel the love!
– Allow the iOpener to chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening up the front panel. Patience is key, and you’ll be rewarded!
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle, but don’t worry! Just take your time and be gentle. Wiggle that plastic opening tool back and forth as needed, and you’ll be on your way to a successful repair in no time!
– Check out the small gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s a little weakness just waiting for you to take advantage of it!
– Now, let’s get to work! Position your tool near the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little space right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Gently take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad and slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, going about 0.5 inches deep. You’re doing great!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While having the pick in this position won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of sticky residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start gently loosening the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, peeling away the adhesive as you go. Keep it smooth!
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Step 13
You might want to slide that warm iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this will depend on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you were busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in that adhesive, give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep at it, and you’ll be freeing that sticky stuff in no time!
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will keep the adhesive from making a comeback!
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it at the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 15
Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna is cozy at the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad, secured by screws and a cable. Because of its positioning, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might end up causing some serious damage to the antenna. So, let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to proceed with a bit of care. We’re entering the delicate zone!
– You’ll need to gently peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, but watch out for those fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Just take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. You could accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a bit of a rough time, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently maneuver the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to peel back that adhesive like a pro!
Step 17
Take your time as you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking near the corner and can be easily damaged if the adhesive isn’t released just right. Stay sharp and watch out for it!
Gently slide the pick out from under the front glass, but don’t go all the way! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked under there.
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Now that you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, snugly next to the home button), let’s get that opening pick back in there all the way.
– Give the pick a little nudge to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep that iOpener cool, my friend! Heat it up for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you fire it up again.
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve successfully passed the home button, reinsert it to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm).
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone.
– Once you’re done, let that opening pick chill under the front glass near the home button.
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener isn’t warm enough, give it another heat-up session!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty sturdy, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful to avoid slipping and causing any harm to yourself or your iPad.
– If the opening pick is sticking in the adhesive, just ‘roll’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If your adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still hanging on tight, just give the iOpener another heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide that opening pick around the top left corner. It’s like a little dance for your device!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, take a breather and stop when you hit around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go. It’s a bit thinner in this area because of the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Just be careful not to go too deep—keep it to a maximum of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any damage to that digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be super careful here! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently peel away the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold on tight!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Use an opening pick to slice through any adhesive that’s keeping that front panel snug and secure.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give the front glass a gentle twist away from the device. It’s like giving it a little hug, but with a twist!
– When you’re putting it back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD. It’ll make your screen shine like new before you seal the deal with the glass.
Step 28
– Let’s get started by taking out those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are keeping the LCD cozy with the rear case. Time to set them free!
Step 29
– The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away beneath the LCD. To get to them, you’ll want to gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
– Carefully lift the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book.
– Now, lay the LCD face down on the front panel. Easy peasy!
Step 30
Make sure you’re lifting the hinged retaining flap and not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. You’ve got this!
– Slide that plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to gently loosen it from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear panel. Easy peasy!
– Carefully pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You’re almost there!
Step 31
– Unscrew those two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are holding the headphone jack to the back panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don’t rush to remove the assembly just yet.
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the headphone jack out of its snug little home at the top edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel like you’re unwrapping a surprise gift!
Step 34
– Gently peel back the tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector snug as a bug.
– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully pry the front camera cable away from the headphone jack cable.
Step 35
– Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable connected to the headphone jack. Take your time, and remember, you’ve got this!
Step 36
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry at the edge to disconnect that microphone cable connector. You’ve got this!
Step 38
Make sure you’re gently lifting up on the nifty hinged retaining flaps, and not the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in a bright red. They’re the stars of the show, so keep an eye on them!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You’re almost there!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently work the edge to lift the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. You’ve got this!
– With a steady hand, carefully peel the digitizer cable off the sticky adhesive that’s keeping it cozy against the rear case. Take your time; it’ll come off smoothly!
Step 40
– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable and pull it straight out from its two cozy sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 41
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll need to slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some space, and you’re golden!
– Gently lift the LCD from its long edge that’s furthest from the digitizer cable, and flip it back like you’re closing a book—easy peasy!
– While you’re holding the LCD up, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a heads up—watch out for the digitizer cable, and make sure it doesn’t get caught on the rear case or LCD.
Step 42
To get into the heart of your iPad, we’ll need to gently pop the LCD out of its cozy little case.
– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book!
– Now, lay the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath is a smart move to keep it scratch-free.
Step 43
Remember, when disconnecting that connector, be gentle and don’t lift it straight up! Keep it cool and take your time.
– Gently place the LCD beside the rear panel like it’s taking a little break.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and give that display data cable lock a little lift upwards.
– Now, with a careful tug, pull the display data cable out of its cozy socket.
Step 45
Watch out for those delicate camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables while you peel off the tape. We wouldn’t want them to get hurt!
– Peel off the piece of tape that’s holding down the ribbon cable for the front-facing camera. You’ve got this!
Step 46
– Gently lift the front camera away from the snug foam adhesive that’s keeping it cozy against the rear panel.
Step 47
– Gently slide the front-facing camera cable out from its cozy little channel in the rear panel.
– Now, it’s time to say goodbye to the front-facing camera—carefully remove it from your iPad.
Step 48
– First things first, if there’s any tape blocking the dock connector cable, go ahead and peel that away like a pro.
– Now, grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the dock connector cable’s connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board. Be gentle, it’s a delicate operation!
– Finally, carefully lift the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel, and voilà! You’re one step closer to a happy device.
Step 49
– Carefully slide the prying tool underneath the four wires at the end of the connector and gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. Remember, don’t pry from the other end of the connector, or you might end up breaking those four little solder points underneath the socket, and that could lead to a microsolder repair situation—yikes!
Step 50
Be gentle and avoid lifting the cable straight up as you disconnect it. Keep it cool and steady!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift up the retainer that’s holding the upper component board cable connector snugly in place on the logic board. No need to rush, take your time!
– Once that’s done, simply pull the connector away from its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 51
– Time to get those screws out! Start by unscrewing the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic board bracket snugly against the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket.
– Once those screws are off, gently lift the logic board bracket away from the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 52
– Take out those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel. Let’s get that panel off and see what magic lies within!
Step 53
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently nudge the logic board away from the rear case. It’s like giving it a little hug to help it come loose!
– Since the logic board is stuck to the rear case, take your time and work your way around to peel off the glue without causing any harm. You’ve got this!
Step 54
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t go trying to yank the logic board out completely. It’s still connected by three antenna cables, and we wouldn’t want any accidental breakage!
– Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and give it a little twist towards the battery. You’ve got this!
Step 55
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently detach the cellular data antenna cable from its cozy little socket on the communications board. You’ve got this!
Step 56
– Carefully take out the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw that’s holding the cellular data antenna cable snugly to the back cover. You’ve got this!
Step 58
– Carefully lift the cellular data antenna from the back case using a plastic opening tool. Take your time, and remember, a little patience goes a long way!
Step 59
– Carefully lift the cellular data antenna out of its cozy little spot in the iPad casing.
– Gently tug the cellular data antenna cable through the channel carved in the rear panel, and voila! The antenna is free from the device.
Step 60
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry off the right antenna cable from its cozy spot on the communications board. You’ve got this!
Step 61
– Unscrew the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw holding the right cellular antenna in place on the back case. You’ve got this!
Step 62
Time to get to work! Carefully peel away the three pieces of tape holding the right cell antenna cable snug against the rear case. You’ve got this!
– Grab the tip of your spudger to kick things off with each piece, then use the flat side to gently lift the tape off like a pro, ensuring it doesn’t tear on you.
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Step 63
– Carefully nudge the antenna away from the rear case using a plastic opening tool. We believe in gentle moves!
– Now, lift that right cellular data antenna off your iPad 2 like you’re raising a tiny flag of victory!
