How to Replace iPad 2 GSM Microphone – Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 45 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to be cautious while diving into your repair. Take your time, and if you ever feel like you’re in over your head, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us. We’re here to help you out!
Get ready to tackle that pesky microphone issue with this handy guide! We’ve captured some footage using a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a bit different from your cellular device. No worries, though—the steps are pretty much the same for both models, except where we point out the differences. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in—any sticky residue lurking at the bottom could end up on the iOpener. Keep things clean and smooth sailing ahead!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.
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Step 2
Take it easy when heating up your iOpener during the repair. If it gets too hot, it might just surprise you with a pop! Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a safe and smooth experience.
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, give it some space and don’t touch it.
Still feeling the heat? If the center of the iOpener is too hot to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before you give it another go. A well-heated iOpener should keep the warmth going for about 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a quick thirty-second spa session in the microwave.
– As you work through the repair, remember to keep your iOpener nice and toasty—just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool off.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best friend here if things get a bit too hot to handle.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers away from the toasty center.
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Step 4
If you’re missing a microwave, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a boil. Once it’s bubbling away, go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged so it gets nice and warm!
– Using tongs (safety first!), fish out the heated iOpener from its steamy bath.
– Give the iOpener a good drying off with a towel, because nobody likes a soggy opener!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little extra warmth later, just repeat the hot water dance for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip, and gently pop that SIM card tray out like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little spot and give it a friendly pull to detach it from your iPad 2.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of its tray and slide in the new one like a pro!
Step 7
Don’t forget your safety glasses to keep those peepers protected! And watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from getting worse and avoid any injuries during your repair by applying some tape to it.
– Cover the entire face of the iPad with overlapping strips of clear packing tape to keep everything in check.
– Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass starts breaking, it might keep on cracking while you work, so you may need to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 8
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that you might be dealing with some sharp glass during this process. So, why not keep those peepers protected? We highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses to shield yourself from any unexpected flying bits. Safety first, repair heroes!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it sits nice and snug for optimal contact.
– Give it a little time—about 90 seconds—before diving in to open that front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a little muscle! Take your time and be gentle, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as you go. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Spot that little gap in the adhesive ring at the top right corner of your iPad? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top, and it’s your ticket in! Let’s take advantage of that.
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack is all you need. You’ve got this!
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit further underneath the front glass until you reach about half an inch deep. You’re doing great!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take it easy and work with care!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s perfectly safe to use the pick at this depth, just a heads-up: it might leave some adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, just part of the adventure!
– While the bottom edge is soaking up some warmth from the iOpener, start peeling back the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down along the iPad’s edge, freeing the adhesive as you make your way.
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Step 15
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little dance depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been getting your hands dirty.
– If the opening pick gets a bit stuck in the sticky stuff, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to help it break free from the adhesive.
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down like it just can’t let go!
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it at the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out on the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad, connected by some screws and a cable. Since the antenna’s position is a bit tricky, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might end up giving it a one-way ticket to irreparable damage town.
– Alright, let’s take it slow and steady for the next few steps, shall we? It’s super important to handle everything with care.
– You’ll need to gently detach the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel. Remember, we want to avoid any mishaps with the delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. So, take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. You wouldn’t want to accidentally give your Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love and damage it. Keep it safe!
– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up the sticky stuff holding it together.
Step 19
Take it easy while sliding that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Be mindful of the Wi-Fi antenna lurking nearby – it’s close to the corner and can get a bit cranky if the adhesive is mishandled.
Just a little tip: don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Give it a gentle tug so about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays snugly in place under the glass.
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Alright, once you’ve wiggled past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches from the right edge, or just a hop away from the home button), it’s time to pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to break free the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 21
Keep the iOpener cool, my friend! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time and give it a breather of at least two minutes before you heat it up again. You got this!
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to slide that opening pick around the home button like a pro! Once you’ve passed the home button, pop it back in there about half an inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!
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Step 22
– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone!
– Pop in the opening pick and let it hang out under the front glass near the home button.
Step 24
If your adhesive is feeling a bit shy and has cooled off too much, just swap in the iOpener along the top edge and keep going! If the iOpener itself has turned chilly, give it a little reheat to get things back on track.
– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is quite sturdy, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take it slow and steady to avoid any mishaps that could harm you or your iPad.
– If your opening pick starts to feel stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for some extra ease. But if it’s still a bit too clingy, give the iOpener another warm-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you’re sliding that pick, just pause at around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick down the left side of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive. The sticky stuff is a bit on the thinner side here thanks to the digitizer stretching along the left edge. Just remember, keep that pick shallow—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Be super careful here! The bottom of the digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom. Take your time and handle with care to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re almost there!
Step 28
– Grab an opening pick and gently nudge up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s lifted, go ahead and use your fingers to hold it steady. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give that front glass a gentle twist away from the device. It’s like a little dance move, but for your tech!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a nice, fresh clean-up. Say goodbye to dust and fingerprints before sealing the deal with the glass!
Step 30
– Get ready to work some magic! First, let’s take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it away from the rear case like you’re unveiling a surprise.
– Carefully set the LCD down on the front panel, just like in the second picture, and give yourself a pat on the back!
Step 32
Remember, you’re prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Keep it cool and steady!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to get to work!’
– Now, slide that plastic tool under the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to break the adhesive’s hold on it. Think of it as setting your cable free from its sticky situation!
– Finally, give the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable a gentle pull straight out of its socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– Let’s get started by unscrewing those three tiny 2 mm Phillips screws that are holding the SIM slot to the rear panel. You’re doing great!
Step 34
– Take a moment to grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove those two 2.9 mm screws holding the headphone jack snugly to the rear panel. You’re doing great!
Step 35
Hold your horses! Let’s not rush into removing that assembly just yet.
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the headphone jack out of its snug little home at the top edge of the iPad.
Step 36
– Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel. Take your time and be careful; you’ve got this!
Step 37
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector cozy and secure.
– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the front camera cable away from the headphone jack cable. You’ve got this!
Step 38
– Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable connected to the headphone jack. Be careful not to rush this part; a little patience goes a long way!
Step 39
Take it easy while peeling off the tape—let’s keep those camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables safe and sound!
– Peel off the piece of tape that’s waving at you in red!
Step 40
– Gently lift the front camera off the foam adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 41
– Gently slide the front-facing camera cable out from its cozy spot in the rear panel.
– Carefully detach the front-facing camera from your iPad.
Step 42
– Let’s get that microphone ribbon cable free! Gently peel away the leftover foam tape that’s holding it down.
Step 43
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry that microphone cable connector loose. You’re doing great!
Step 44
– Gently lift the microphone from the top edge of the rear panel like you’re unwrapping a present!
Step 45
Watch out for that ribbon cable—it loves to play hide and seek! Make sure it doesn’t get snagged or torn while you’re delicately removing the microphone.
– Time to say goodbye to that microphone on your iPad 2! Go ahead and remove it like a pro.
