How to Replace iPad 2 GSM Rear Camera Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Hey there, savvy fixer-upper! Before diving in, remember to power down your device and unplug it from any power sources. Safety first, right? If you run into any trouble, just give us a shout and you can always schedule a repair!
Get ready to tackle the task of swapping out that broken rear camera! Just a heads up, some parts of this guide were filmed using a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. No worries, though—the process is pretty much the same for both models, unless we mention otherwise. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any leftover gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on your iOpener.
– Center the iOpener in the microwave like it’s the star of the show.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating can lead to some unexpected surprises, like a burst. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear. Safety first!
If the center of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight! Keep using it as you wait for it to cool down a bit before giving it another heat session. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your repair buddy!
– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!
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Step 3
The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care! Don your oven mitt if you need to, and keep those fingers safe.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your hands safe from the warm center.
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Get that water boiling and then turn off the heat – we don’t want a hot water spa day going too wild!
– Carefully place your iOpener into the warm water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and enjoying its soak!
– Using some trusty tongs, lift out your warm iOpener from its steamy retreat.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry – we want it to be all snuggly and ready to work.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is prepped and ready to save the day! If you need to give it another warm-up, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes again.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is all cracked up, let’s keep it from shattering any further and protect yourself while you work by sticking some tape on it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until you’ve got it completely covered—like a protective shield!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking while you’re at it, so don’t be shy about using a metal prying tool to scoop those glass pieces out.
Step 6
Just a heads up! While you’re diving into this repair, you might encounter some broken glass. So, grab those safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay and protect your eyes. Safety first, right?
– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for a solid connection. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Let the iOpener chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and start prying open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle, but don’t sweat it! Just take your time and gently wiggle the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Look closely at your iPad; you’ll notice a tiny gap in the adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. This little flaw is your golden ticket!
– Now, let’s get to work! Position your tool near the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 9
– With the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right beside the tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of your iPad’s grip, and gently slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch down. You’ve got this!
Step 12
That adhesive is quite the overachiever! You might need to put in some serious elbow grease here. Just take it slow and steady.
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s all good to use the pick this deep without causing any harm, just a heads up: you might end up with some sticky adhesive remnants on the LCD. No biggie, just part of the adventure!
– As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let’s start peeling back that adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down along the edge of your iPad, freeing the adhesive as you go. You’re doing great!
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Step 13
You might want to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. This little dance depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been busy with your repairs.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy and gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep it moving to help release that sticky stuff!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pluck that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting too clingy!
– Give your iOpener a little warmth boost, then move it up to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things nice and toasty!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out at the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Since the antenna’s orientation is a bit finicky, take your time and be gentle—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to it. You’ve got this!
– Alright, folks! Time to tread carefully as we dive into the next steps.
– You’ll need to gently peel back the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, all while keeping the delicate connections to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. Take a deep breath and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t push that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little ouch, and we don’t want that!
– Gently slide that trusty opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break free the adhesive there.
Step 17
Alright, listen up! As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner. If you’re not careful and release the adhesive the wrong way, you might just sever it! So, take it slow and steady!
Just give that pick a little wiggle—don’t yank it all the way out from under the front glass! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked in there. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic to release the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 18
– Once you’ve cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button—go ahead and slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating sessions short and sweet—no more than a minute at a time! And remember to give it a little break of at least two minutes before warming it up again. You’re doing great!
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull out the opening pick until it wraps around the home button. Once you’ve got it past that button, slide it back in just about half an inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all the way down the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Once you’re in, tuck that opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 22
If your adhesive has decided to chill out a bit too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. And if the iOpener is feeling a little cool, give it a quick reheat to get back in the game!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This area has some seriously strong adhesive, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Just take your time and stay steady to avoid any mishaps with your iPad or yourself.
– If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive has warmed up nicely, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for a smoother experience. But if that sticky stuff is still holding on tight, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work!
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and then glide the opening pick around that top left corner like you’re dancing with it.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out around 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you get to about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, peeling away the adhesive as you move. The adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just remember to keep the pick no deeper than half an inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 25
Be super careful, folks! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and watch out so you don’t accidentally cut this little guy!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work on freeing the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re almost there!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edge of your iPad has decided to play hard to get. No worries! Just slide a pick under the part of the iPad where the front glass is still holding on tight and gently ‘cut’ through that sticky stuff.
– Grab an opening pick and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s up, use your fingers to hold it steady. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping that front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting it all back together, remember to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean-up, wiping away any dust or fingerprints before you set the glass back in place.
Step 28
– Time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the four 2.0 mm screws holding the LCD to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out from the rear case. You’ve got this!
– Now, lay the LCD down on the front panel just like you see in the second picture. Easy peasy!
Step 30
– Gently peel back the rubber cover from the metal camera retainer and take it off the iPad 2.
Step 31
Make sure that the tiny thermal pad is snugly fitted onto the metal retaining clip just like you see in the third picture when swapping out the rear camera. You’ve got this!
– First up, let’s get those two screws out of the way!
– Now, gently lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its cozy spot in the rear panel.
Step 32
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift that rear camera connector right out of its cozy spot on the upper component board. You’re doing great!
– Now, go ahead and take out the rear camera. You’ve got this!
