How To Replace iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 LCD Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out that LCD and set your Angry Birds free from those pesky spiderweb cracks and stubborn dead pixels. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. A quick clean will help ensure that any pesky residue doesn’t end up on the iOpener. Trust us, your future self will thank you!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up.
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Step 2
Watch out for the iOpener getting too toasty during your repair adventure. If it gets too hot, it might just pop! Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) to stay safe.
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, give it a break and don’t touch it.
If the center of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, keep using it while it cools down a bit. A nicely heated iOpener should stay warm for around 10 minutes—just the right amount of time to get things done!
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener – when it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the good vibes going.
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Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care. A trusty oven mitt can be your best friend here!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your toolkit, no worries! Just heat up your iOpener by popping it into some boiling water instead.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give that iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Bring the water to a rolling boil and then turn off the heat—it’s time to let the magic happen.
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for a lovely soak of 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged; we want it to feel right at home!
– Using some tongs (safety first, folks!), fish out that heated iOpener from the water.
– Give the iOpener a good drying off with a towel—no one likes a soggy gadget!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth later on, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, switch off the heat, and let that iOpener chill in the water for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more fragile than it looks!
– If your display glass is a bit cracked, let’s keep it from shattering further and avoid any ouchies while you work your magic—grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Start by laying down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display, covering the entire surface like a protective blanket.
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might get a little feisty and crack more as you go. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re diving into this repair, you might encounter some tricky broken glass. So, it’s a smart move to rock a pair of safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it’s nice and snug for a solid connection. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Give the iOpener about 90 seconds to do its thing on the iPad before you dive into opening up the front panel. Patience is key!
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle—wiggle that plastic tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Spotting a little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that little weakness!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, just enough to widen that crack a bit.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, smoothly slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You’ve got this!
Step 10
– Take that plastic opening tool out of your iPad’s way, and slide the opening pick under the front glass, pushing it down about half an inch. You’ve got this!
Step 12
That adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero for this one. Take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While using the pick this way won’t cause any harm, it might leave some sticky adhesive traces on the LCD. Just keep that in mind as you go along!
– As the bottom edge soaks up some heat from the iOpener, let’s get started on loosening the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, and watch that adhesive give way as you go.
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Step 13
As you gently peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how long your iPad has been cooling while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep freeing up that sticky stuff. You’re doing great!
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Step 14
– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again!
– Give your iOpener a little re-heat love, and then move it up to the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is nestled on the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad, held in place by screws and a cable. Given its placement, it’s super important to handle this with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. So, let’s be gentle and keep everything working smoothly!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to put on those safety goggles because we’re diving into some delicate work here. Take a deep breath and channel your inner repair guru!
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, but be super careful not to harm the fragile components that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow these steps closely, and you’ll be a pro in no time!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right corner of the front panel, be super careful! The Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky and hangs out right by the edge, so if you release the adhesive the wrong way, it might just decide to take a vacation. Keep your focus and everything will be just fine!
Just gently wiggle the pick out from under the front glass—leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip still nestled in there. It’s like giving it a little hug while you work!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad to free up the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), gently slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, glide the pick to the right and let it work its magic, freeing the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating sessions to just a minute at a time, and give it a little breather for at least two minutes before you reheat it again. You got this!
If the adhesive has cooled down too much at the bottom edge, just give the iOpener another warm-up session to heat things back up where you’re working.
– Keep on peeling that adhesive from the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past that button, pop it back in to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Make sure to leave that opening pick snugly in place under the front glass by the home button.
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled off a bit too much, just swap the iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If that iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is quite stubborn, so don’t be shy about using some elbow grease! Just remember to take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could harm both you and your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be having a tough time with the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if the sticky stuff is still hanging on tight, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get down to business.
– Keep on peeling that adhesive away from the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, take a break and stop when you’re around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’re doing great!
– Gently slide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting the adhesive loosen up as you go. No worries here, the adhesive is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just be careful not to go too deep—keep it to about half an inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be super careful! The digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and work gently—let’s avoid any accidental snips to this little guy!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. It’s like peeling a sticker, but way cooler!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the device like you’re unveiling a surprise!
– When it’s time to put things back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to give that LCD a little TLC, clearing away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal the deal with the glass.
Step 28
– Let’s get started by unscrewing those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out from the rear case like a pro.
– Place the LCD down on the front panel, just like you see in the second picture—it’s all about that perfect positioning!
Step 30
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently nudge up the metal retaining clip that’s holding the display data cable snugly in its spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Be gentle when disconnecting the display data cable connector—avoid lifting it straight up!
– Gently wiggle the display data cable and carefully pull it out of its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Gently detach the LCD assembly from your iPad 2. Take your time and be careful, you’ve got this!
Step 33
– Gently peel away the little strip of black tape that’s keeping the display data cable connector on the LCD under wraps. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pop up that metal retaining clip on the display data cable connector. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– The LCD is still hanging in there.
