How to Replace iPad 4 CDMA Rotation Lock Mute Switch Tutorial

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 67 Steps

Get ready to tackle the rotation lock/mute switch replacement! With this guide, you’ll be on your way to a smooth fix in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like a pro.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 2

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.

– As you dive into the repair, remember to give the iOpener a little love by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 3

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grip one of the flat ends so you don’t accidentally touch the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give that iOpener a nice, warm bath!

– Get that water boiling! Once it’s bubbling away, turn off the heat.

– Carefully lower the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s nice and cozy, fully submerged!

– Using tongs (safety first!), take the warmed iOpener out of the water.

– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel, so it’s ready for action.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to help you out! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the water boiling and soaking process for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 5

– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip, and gently pop that SIM tray out like a pro!

Step 6

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and take it out of the iPad.

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of its tray and slide in the new one with a smile!

Step 7

– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep it from breaking further and avoid any mishaps during your repair by using some tape.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until the entire face is nicely covered.

– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide as outlined. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might continue to crack a bit while you work. You may need to bring in a metal prying tool to help scoop out the glass.

Step 8

– Place the iOpener snugly on the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s lying flat and connecting nicely with the surface of the iPad. We want that good contact, so smooth it out a bit!

– Give it a little time—let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 9

– Hey there! Spot the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring? It’s hanging out in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little weakness!

– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to make that crack a bit wider.

Step 10

– Be sure to position the tool just right—snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

Step 11

– With the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside your trusty plastic tool.

Step 12

– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch or so. You’re doing great!

Step 13

– As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, don’t forget to give the iOpener another round of heat and pop it back onto the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 14

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, making sure to release that stubborn adhesive along the way.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 15

– If your opening pick decides to stick around in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to help it break free and keep on releasing that sticky stuff.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 16

– Before you pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick right under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep that sticky adhesive from playing peek-a-boo and re-adhering.

– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, and then move it to the top edge of the iPad. You’re on the right track!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 17

– Alright, folks, it’s time to proceed with some serious care here. We’re about to release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, and we want to make sure we don’t accidentally mess up any of those delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s take it slow and steady through the next steps!

Step 18

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive like a pro.

Step 19

– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive that’s holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

Step 20

– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way!

– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.

Step 21

– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad. When you reach the home button, make sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to go around it, then slide it back in to about half an inch (10 mm) deep once you’re past that button. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 22

– Keep peeling away that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!

– Once you’re in, tuck that opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button.

Step 23

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help loosen up the adhesive in that area and make your repair a breeze!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 24

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket.

– Keep in mind, the adhesive in this area is pretty stubborn, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady—no need for any slip-ups that could harm you or your beloved iPad.

– If your opening pick seems to be having a hard time with the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 25

– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and then slide that handy opening pick around the top left corner.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 26

– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that adhesive. The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer stretching all the way down that side. Just remember, keep the pick shallow—no more than half an inch (10 mm)—to avoid any unintentional damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!

Step 27

– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work to free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. Keep it smooth and steady!

Step 28

– Grab an opening pick and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to keep it steady!

Step 29

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a gentle twist to detach it from the iPad.

– When you’re putting everything back together, take a moment to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you set the glass back in place.

Step 30

– Get ready to tackle this task! First up, carefully take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

Step 31

– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Once you’ve lifted it, swing the LCD around on its left edge and set it down softly on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 32

– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift away the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 33

– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.

– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle that LCD ribbon cable free from its snug home on the logic board.

– If your iPad decides to play hard to get and the LCD screen remains dark after reconnecting the ZIF connector, just hold down the power and home buttons for about ten seconds. Keep your eyes peeled for the glorious Apple logo as your device reboots!

Tools Used
  1. Tweezers

Step 34

– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without making any contact with the screen. You’ve got this!

Step 35

Step 36

– Lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.

Step 37

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable out of its snug home on the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Tweezers

Step 38

– Carefully guide the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the rear case.

Step 39

– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 40

– Lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.

Step 41

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free that sticky adhesive.

– Now, with a little finesse, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 42

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully free the adhesive holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. Remember, patience is key!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 43

– With a gentle tug, coax that digitizer ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Now, carefully lift off the front panel from the iPad. It’s like peeling a banana—just take your time!

Step 44

– Gently peel away the electrical tape that’s keeping the headphone jack assembly cable connector snug as a bug.

– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully lift the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re almost there!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 45

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky grip of the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 46

– Gently peel away the tape that’s snugly holding down the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– Flip up the little retaining flap on that SIM board cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a tiny door.

– With a spudger in hand, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its cozy home on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 47

– Take out those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the SIM board cozy with the aluminum frame. Time to set it free!

Step 48

– Gently set the headphone jack assembly cable aside, then pop out the SIM board from your iPad.

Step 49

– Gently peel away the adhesive tape that’s snugly holding the headphone jack assembly in place.

Step 50

– Carefully take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!

Step 51

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera away from its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Time to shine!’

– While you’re at it, keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right. This will help release the adhesive that’s been holding the camera cable down, making it easier for you to continue your repair adventure!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 52

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip up that little retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

– Now, slide the tip of the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and carefully detach it from its ZIF connector.

– Give the spudger a little slide to the left to free the microphone ribbon cable from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the headphone jack assembly.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 53

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently wiggle it under the antenna connector cable. Pry it up from its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 54

– Gently lift the retaining flap that keeps the volume/power button ribbon cable snugly attached to the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!

– Carefully disconnect the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!

Step 55

– Unscrew the screws holding the headphone jack assembly in place and set them aside. You’ve got this!

Step 56

– With a gentle grip on the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, smoothly pull the assembly straight out towards the bottom of the iPad. You’re doing great!

Step 57

– With a firm grip on the headphone jack assembly using both hands, gently pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any cables that might want to join the party.

Step 58

– Unscrew the screws that are holding the power and volume button cable to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

Step 59

– Gently peel away the plastic covering the volume buttons. You’ve got this!

Step 60

– Carefully take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s keeping the volume button frame snug against the aluminum frame. You’re almost there!

Step 61

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor, and remember to treat that delicate cable with care!

– Carefully glide the plastic opening tool around the sensor to loosen the adhesive and set it free.

Step 62

– Gently slide a spudger under the power and volume cables to free them from their adhesive grip.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 63

– Gently use the tip of the spudger instead of the wide edge to carefully peel away the adhesive hiding beneath the volume button branch of the ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 64

– Keep that spudger sliding smoothly toward the top of the iPad, and watch the adhesive give way like magic!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 65

– With the spudger tip still tucked under the ribbon cable, gently coax the power button out of its cozy little home in the aluminum frame.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 66

– With both hands on the power & volume button cable, gently coax the volume buttons and lock switch out of their cozy little homes in the aluminum frame.

– Once they’re free, gracefully lift the power & volume button cable away from the rear aluminum case.

Step 67

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge that mute/lock switch out of its cozy little spot in the aluminum frame. It’s time for it to shine!

– Now, go ahead and lift that mute/lock switch right out of the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

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