How to Replace iPad 4 CDMA Rotation Lock Mute Switch Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 67 Steps
Hey there, tech wizard! Just a friendly reminder to handle all parts with care. A gentle touch goes a long way in keeping everything safe and sound. And remember, if you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!
Get ready to tackle the rotation lock/mute switch replacement! With this guide, you’ll be on your way to a smooth fix in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before diving in, give your microwave a quick clean. Trust us, any leftover gunk on the bottom could end up making a sticky mess on your iOpener.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like a pro.
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Step 2
Hey there, just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on your iOpener while you’re working your magic. Overheating can lead to a bit of a boom, and we definitely don’t want that! Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, best to steer clear of it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, no worries! Keep using it while it cools down a bit before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener can hang out and stay warm for about 10 minutes—perfect for your repair groove!
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
– As you dive into the repair, remember to give the iOpener a little love by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Be cautious with the iOpener; it’s going to be pretty toasty! A pair of oven mitts can be your best friend here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grip one of the flat ends so you don’t accidentally touch the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your toolkit, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give that iOpener a nice, warm bath!
– Get that water boiling! Once it’s bubbling away, turn off the heat.
– Carefully lower the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s nice and cozy, fully submerged!
– Using tongs (safety first!), take the warmed iOpener out of the water.
– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel, so it’s ready for action.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to help you out! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the water boiling and soaking process for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip, and gently pop that SIM tray out like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and take it out of the iPad.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of its tray and slide in the new one with a smile!
Step 7
Don your trusty safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—let’s not give it a rough time!
– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep it from breaking further and avoid any mishaps during your repair by using some tape.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until the entire face is nicely covered.
– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide as outlined. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might continue to crack a bit while you work. You may need to bring in a metal prying tool to help scoop out the glass.
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: while you tackle this repair, you might be dealing with some sharp glass pieces. So, why not rock those safety glasses? They’ll keep you safe from any unexpected flying bits and keep your repair experience smooth sailing!
– Place the iOpener snugly on the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s lying flat and connecting nicely with the surface of the iPad. We want that good contact, so smooth it out a bit!
– Give it a little time—let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 9
It might take a bit of elbow grease to slide the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Take your time and stay cool, gently wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed.
– Hey there! Spot the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring? It’s hanging out in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little weakness!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to make that crack a bit wider.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside your trusty plastic tool.
Step 12
– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch or so. You’re doing great!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a tad. While having the pick in this position is generally safe, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a little heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, making sure to release that stubborn adhesive along the way.
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Step 15
As you gently peel away the adhesive, you might want to reposition that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little dance depends on how long the iPad has been taking a cool break while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick decides to stick around in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to help it break free and keep on releasing that sticky stuff.
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Step 16
– Before you pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick right under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep that sticky adhesive from playing peek-a-boo and re-adhering.
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, and then move it to the top edge of the iPad. You’re on the right track!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of your iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given how it’s positioned, it’s super important to handle this part with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some permanent damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. So, take a breath and proceed gently!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to proceed with some serious care here. We’re about to release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, and we want to make sure we don’t accidentally mess up any of those delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s take it slow and steady through the next steps!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t push that pick any further than the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive like a pro.
Step 19
Take a moment to gently glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up—the Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky and hangs out near the corner, so be careful not to cut it loose while you’re working with the adhesive. You’ve got this!
Gently slide the pick under the front glass, but don’t go all the way! Just pull it out a smidge so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under the glass.
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive that’s holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 20
– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way!
– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 21
Hey there! Just a quick reminder: keep the iOpener toasty for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before you heat it up again. Safety first, but we believe in you!
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad. When you reach the home button, make sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to go around it, then slide it back in to about half an inch (10 mm) deep once you’re past that button. You’re doing great!
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Step 22
– Keep peeling away that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Once you’re in, tuck that opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button.
Step 24
If your adhesive has taken a little too long to warm up, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep at it. And if the iOpener is feeling a bit chilly, give it another heat-up to get back in the game!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket.
– Keep in mind, the adhesive in this area is pretty stubborn, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady—no need for any slip-ups that could harm you or your beloved iPad.
– If your opening pick seems to be having a hard time with the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still clinging on like a loyal puppy, just reheat that iOpener and set it on the left edge while you get to work!
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and then slide that handy opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, hit the brakes at around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that adhesive. The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer stretching all the way down that side. Just remember, keep the pick shallow—no more than half an inch (10 mm)—to avoid any unintentional damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Be super careful, the bottom of that digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the base of your iPad. Take your time and handle with care to avoid cutting this little guy!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work to free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 28
– Grab an opening pick and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to keep it steady!
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might be hanging around! Use an opening pick to slice through any adhesive still keeping that front panel snug as a bug.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a gentle twist to detach it from the iPad.
– When you’re putting everything back together, take a moment to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you set the glass back in place.
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable to the side so you can get to that sneaky bottom left screw.
– Get ready to tackle this task! First up, carefully take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and might snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and steady!
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Once you’ve lifted it, swing the LCD around on its left edge and set it down softly on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 32
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift away the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps.
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Step 33
– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle that LCD ribbon cable free from its snug home on the logic board.
– If your iPad decides to play hard to get and the LCD screen remains dark after reconnecting the ZIF connector, just hold down the power and home buttons for about ten seconds. Keep your eyes peeled for the glorious Apple logo as your device reboots!
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Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without making any contact with the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 35
If you’ve got some electrical tape hanging around, go ahead and peel it off the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. Let’s free those components and get this repair rolling!
Step 36
– Lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable out of its snug home on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Carefully guide the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the rear case.
Step 39
– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 40
– Lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.
Step 41
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free that sticky adhesive.
– Now, with a little finesse, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 42
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully free the adhesive holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. Remember, patience is key!
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Step 43
– With a gentle tug, coax that digitizer ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
– Now, carefully lift off the front panel from the iPad. It’s like peeling a banana—just take your time!
Step 44
– Gently peel away the electrical tape that’s keeping the headphone jack assembly cable connector snug as a bug.
– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully lift the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re almost there!
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Step 45
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky grip of the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 46
– Gently peel away the tape that’s snugly holding down the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
– Flip up the little retaining flap on that SIM board cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a tiny door.
– With a spudger in hand, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its cozy home on the logic board.
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Step 47
– Take out those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the SIM board cozy with the aluminum frame. Time to set it free!
Step 48
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, remember to take it easy on the headphone jack—yanking too hard could lead to it being torn off. Stay cool and careful!
– Gently set the headphone jack assembly cable aside, then pop out the SIM board from your iPad.
Step 49
– Gently peel away the adhesive tape that’s snugly holding the headphone jack assembly in place.
Step 50
– Carefully take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 51
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera away from its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Time to shine!’
– While you’re at it, keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right. This will help release the adhesive that’s been holding the camera cable down, making it easier for you to continue your repair adventure!
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Step 52
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip up that little retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
– Now, slide the tip of the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and carefully detach it from its ZIF connector.
– Give the spudger a little slide to the left to free the microphone ribbon cable from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the headphone jack assembly.
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Step 53
– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently wiggle it under the antenna connector cable. Pry it up from its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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Step 54
– Gently lift the retaining flap that keeps the volume/power button ribbon cable snugly attached to the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
– Carefully disconnect the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
Step 55
– Unscrew the screws holding the headphone jack assembly in place and set them aside. You’ve got this!
Step 56
– With a gentle grip on the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, smoothly pull the assembly straight out towards the bottom of the iPad. You’re doing great!
Step 57
– With a firm grip on the headphone jack assembly using both hands, gently pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any cables that might want to join the party.
Step 58
The two screws at the top are tilted towards the aluminum frame. Just remember to keep that screwdriver nice and straight with the screw as you work your magic.
– Unscrew the screws that are holding the power and volume button cable to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 59
– Gently peel away the plastic covering the volume buttons. You’ve got this!
Step 60
– Carefully take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s keeping the volume button frame snug against the aluminum frame. You’re almost there!
Step 61
– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor, and remember to treat that delicate cable with care!
– Carefully glide the plastic opening tool around the sensor to loosen the adhesive and set it free.
Step 63
– Gently use the tip of the spudger instead of the wide edge to carefully peel away the adhesive hiding beneath the volume button branch of the ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
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Step 65
– With the spudger tip still tucked under the ribbon cable, gently coax the power button out of its cozy little home in the aluminum frame.
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Step 66
– With both hands on the power & volume button cable, gently coax the volume buttons and lock switch out of their cozy little homes in the aluminum frame.
– Once they’re free, gracefully lift the power & volume button cable away from the rear aluminum case.