How to Replace iPad 4 GSM Display Bezel – DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Heads up! The display bezel guide was cooked up for the iPad 3 Wi-Fi, but guess what? The same steps apply for the iPad 4, whether it’s the 4G version or Wi-Fi! Easy peasy! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
If your display bezel has seen better days, don’t worry! This guide is here to help you swap it out like a pro. Originally crafted for the iPad 3 Wi-Fi, the steps for removing the display bezel are just the same for the iPad 4, whether you have the 4G or Wi-Fi model. Ready to get started? Let’s dive in! And if you find yourself needing a hand, feel free to schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. A clean microwave means less chance of any stubborn gunk getting cozy with your iOpener!
– Pop the iOpener right smack in the center of the microwave.
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep your cool and don’t go overboard with heating the iOpener. Excessive heat might cause it to pop like a balloon. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F)!
If your iOpener looks puffed up, hands off!
If the middle’s still too hot to handle, let it chill a bit before reheating. Your well-tempered iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. When it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the heat going.
Tools Used
Step 3
Careful there! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might just be your best buddy right now.
– Grab the iOpener from the microwave by one of the flat ends—it’s cooler there, so you won’t burn those precious fingers!
Tools Used
Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
– Fill a pot or pan with enough water to cover your trusty iOpener.
– Bring the water to a bubbly boil, then hit pause and turn off the heat.
– Give your iOpener a hot tub session by placing it in the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s having a fully submerged spa day!
– Use tongs to fish out your iOpener from its hot water bath.
– Get your towel ready and make sure the iOpener is nice and dry.
– Your iOpener is all set to roll! Need to heat it up again? Just re-boil the water, turn off the heat, and repeat the bath for 2-3 minutes. If you’re stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those eyes safe, and handle that LCD screen like a boss. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! To keep things safe and sound while you tackle the repair, slap some tape on that glass to keep it from shattering further.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay it down in overlapping strips across your iPad’s screen until it’s fully covered. It’s like giving it a protective blanket!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. But heads up! Once the glass starts cracking, it might just want to keep on cracking. You may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop out those pesky pieces.
Step 6
Heads up! You might be dealing with some rogue glass bits in this step, so it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep your peepers safe from any surprise shard attacks. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently lay your iOpener flat along the right side of your iPad, making sure it snuggles in nicely for maximum contact.
– Let the iOpener chillax on your iPad for about a minute and a half before you even think about lifting that front panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting the tool’s tip wedged between the glass and plastic might need a bit of elbow grease. Stay cool and take it slow, shimmying the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– There’s a tiny opening in the adhesive ring of the iPad’s top-right corner—around 2 inches (or 5 cm) from the top. This is your secret ticket in!
– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just use the tip of the tool—enough to make a small gap. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 8
– Slide your tool in just the right position—nestled snugly between the plastic display trim and the front glass panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside the tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of your iPad’s grip, and gently slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches down. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening that sticky adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go along. You’re doing great!
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle!
Hey there! If you spot the tip of the opening pick poking out from under the front glass, go ahead and pull it back just a smidge. While using the pick that deep won’t harm anything, it might leave some sticky adhesive on the LCD. No worries though, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
Tools Used
Step 13
As you let the adhesive go, it might be a good idea to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little move depends on how long your iPad has been cooling while you were busy working on it.
– When the opening pick hits a sticky adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the iPad’s edge to keep freeing that stubborn adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Before you whisk away that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide in a second pick under the right side of the front glass to stop the adhesive from getting sticky-with-it again.
– Give the iOpener a warm-up session, then scoot it over to chill on the top edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fitted at the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the unique positioning of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to handle it carefully to avoid any potential mishaps that could lead to permanent damage. Stay sharp and keep things smooth!
– Okay, we’re getting into the nitty-gritty part now, so heads up! You’ll need to carefully peel away the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. But hey, no pressure! Just be gentle and watch those delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. We got your back, so keep calm and follow along with the next steps. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
Hey there, stay cool and avoid moving the pick past the bottom right corner. Going too far can mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and nobody wants that hassle! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, setting that pesky adhesive free!
Step 17
Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is hiding out near the corner, and it can get a bit snippy if the adhesive gets too wild. Take it easy and you’ll be just fine!
Keep the pick snugly tucked under the front glass—just a smidge! Pull it out a tiny bit so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip is still hanging out under the glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right near the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heat game strong, but don’t go overboard! Just a minute at a time is perfect, and give it a cool down of at least two minutes before you bring the heat again.
– Keep on gently peeling back that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past that button, pop the pick back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) for a smooth ride.
Tools Used
Step 20
– Keep on going until you’ve peeled away all that sticky stuff on the bottom edge of your iPad!
– Leave that opening pick nestled snug under the front glass, right by the home button.
Step 22
If your adhesive has taken a chill pill, just pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep the good vibes going. If things have cooled down too much, give that iOpener another warm-up. And hey, if this part’s a bit too tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is quite strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could lead to trouble for you or your iPad.
– If you find the opening pick is sticking in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit too clingy, just give the iOpener another heat-up session and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re about 2.25″ (60 mm) away from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that pesky adhesive. The good news? It’s pretty thin over here thanks to the digitizer running along that whole side. Just a quick tip: keep the pick no deeper than about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any digitizer drama. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful here! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work gently so you don’t accidentally snip this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s lifted, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be lurking around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s still keeping that front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a little love, cleaning off any pesky dust or fingerprints before sealing the glass back in place.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the ribbon cable out of the way to get to that elusive screw.
– Go ahead and unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is like a delicate flower—it can get stressed out and break if you bend it too much. Keep it chill!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re almost there!
– Now, just rotate that LCD along its left edge and lay it down softly on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up that piece of tape hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 31
– Lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like a pro.
– With a gentle tug from your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its snug spot on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, just give your iPad a friendly restart by pressing and holding the power button and home button together for about ten seconds until you spot that cheerful Apple logo.
Tools Used
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If you’ve got some electrical tape blocking the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel it off like a pro!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Step 35
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently tug the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
– Gently free the home button ribbon cable from its cozy little spot in the rear case.
Step 37
– With the tip of a spudger in hand, gently lift the piece of tape that holds the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
– Gently lift the retaining flap on each of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break that adhesive seal. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy sockets on the logic board. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break the adhesive’s hold on the cable, freeing it from the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 41
– With a gentle grip, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the aluminum frame. It’s like giving it a little hug!
– Now, let’s go ahead and lift the front panel off the iPad. You’re doing great!
Step 42
– Gently wedge the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool between the plastic and aluminum frames at one of the corners. You’ve got this!
– Carefully glide that plastic opening tool along the edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic to break the adhesive seal. Easy peasy!
Step 43
– Keep on gliding that plastic opening tool down the left edge of the iPad like a pro!
Step 44
– As you approach the bottom left edge, give that plastic opening tool a little twist around the corner and keep gliding it along the bottom edge like a pro!
Step 45
– Keep gliding that trusty plastic opening tool along the right side of your iPad like a pro!
Step 46
– Keep an eye on that front-facing camera while you gently glide the plastic opening tool along the top edge of your iPad. We want to avoid any selfie mishaps!
