How to Replace iPad 4 Wi-Fi Headphone Jack Board Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 54 Steps
Hey there, tech hero! Just a friendly reminder to handle your device with care during the repair process. If things get a bit tricky, don’t worry! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Ready to give your device a little tune-up? Dive into this guide and replace that headphone jack board with ease! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any leftover gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it get nice and toasty!
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Step 2
Watch out for that iOpener—overheating it can lead to a dramatic burst! Keep it cool and don’t let it exceed 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it a pass. Safety first!
Still feeling too hot to handle in the middle? No worries! Keep using it while it cools down a bit before you heat it up again. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your tool!
– As you dive into your repair adventure, keep an eye on your iOpener. If it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Just like a good cup of coffee, it’s all about that perfect temperature!
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Step 3
Caution: The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might just be your new best friend.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your arsenal, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water to give it a nice warm-up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely cover your iOpener. We want it cozy in there!
– Get that water boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first, right?
– Now, it’s time to give your iOpener a nice warm bath! Pop it into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged for the best results.
– Using some tongs, carefully fish out the heated iOpener from its steamy spa treatment.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry. We want it nice and dry for action!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some tape to help contain those pesky shards and protect yourself while you work.
– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over your iPad’s display until the entire face is nicely covered. It’s like giving your device a protective blanket!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might decide to crack a bit more as you go along. Don’t fret! You may need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out those stubborn pieces.
Step 6
Hey there! Just a quick reminder that you might be dealing with some tricky broken glass during this process. So, to keep those peepers safe from any unexpected flying bits, we totally recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses. Better safe than sorry, right?
– Position the iOpener comfortably on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s flat and cozy so it can really get to know the surface underneath.
– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you dive in and try to lift the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. No worries! Just take your time and gently wiggle the tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Spot a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top—perfect! Let’s use that little flaw to our advantage.
– Now, grab your tool and line it up with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just ease in the very tip of the tool, enough to gently widen that crack.
Step 9
– With the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to your trusty plastic opening tool.
Step 10
– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of your iPad’s toolbox and gently slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While diving this deep with the pick won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, keep that heated iOpener snug against the right edge of the iPad. The timing here depends on how long the iPad has been cooling while you were busy working your magic.
– If the opening pick gets a bit cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep on loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
– Before you dive into the fun of removing that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, make sure to slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fitted to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Due to its unique position, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to the antenna. Let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Alright, folks! Time to tread carefully through the next few steps.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s keeping the antenna snug against the front panel, all while being super mindful of the delicate bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow these steps like a pro!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick too far past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a bit of a rough time, and we definitely want to keep it happy!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
Take your time as you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is just a hop away from the corner, and if the adhesive goes rogue, it could get cut off. Let’s keep it intact!
Just gently ease the pick out from under the front glass—no need to go all the way! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked under there for a smooth operation.
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve gracefully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’re doing great!
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 19
Keep it cool! Don’t heat the iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before giving it another go.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, and gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve passed the home button, reinsert it to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm).
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Step 20
– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Let that opening pick chill under the front glass close to the home button.
Step 22
If your adhesive has gone a bit chilly, just swap out the iOpener along the top edge and keep on working. If your iOpener is feeling a little too cool, give it a quick reheat and get back to it!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is quite the tough cookie, so you might need to apply some muscle. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any mishaps with yourself or your iPad.
– If the pick starts to stick in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If your adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit clingy, just reheat that iOpener and place it on the left edge while you work your magic.
– Keep on peeling that adhesive off the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re about 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick. You’re doing great!
– Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the left side of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go. Don’t worry, the adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer stretching across the whole left edge. Just remember to keep the pick shallow—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be cautious! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled at the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive from the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once you’ve got it pried open, go ahead and give it a little tug with your fingers!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be lingering around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that might be keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from it. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, make sure to give that LCD a little TLC! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints before you reinstall the glass. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside and you’ll be all set to remove the bottom left screw.
– Carefully take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, folks! That ribbon cable is as delicate as a butterfly and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it safe and sound!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, give the LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that pesky tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.
– Using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully wiggle and pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 32
– Gently raise the LCD away from the front panel without making any contact with the screen.
Step 33
If you see some electrical tape hanging out, go ahead and peel it off to uncover the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Step 35
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the back case.
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Lift the retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with a gentle touch.
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen that sticky adhesive holding it down.
– With a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy little sockets on the logic board.
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to ease off the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– With a gentle touch, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.
– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad and set it aside.
Step 42
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back that piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s like unwrapping a little gift!
– Now, take the spudger and with a gentle touch, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re almost there!
Step 43
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky grip of the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 44
– Gently nudge the front-facing camera ribbon cable to the side using the flat edge of a spudger, but remember to keep it in place—no need to remove it!
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Step 45
– Gently peel back the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly and remove it like a pro!
Step 47
– Gently slide the tip of the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and give it a little nudge to pop it out of its cozy home in the ZIF connector.
– Next, take the flat edge of your trusty spudger and gracefully shift the microphone ribbon cable to the side.
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Step 48
– Lift the retaining flap that holds down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector to the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
Step 49
– Gently pull the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector like it’s a delicate flower.
– Now, with a light touch, bend the volume button ribbon cable upwards to give it some space and let it breathe.
Step 50
– Unscrew those pesky screws holding the headphone jack assembly in place!
Step 51
– With a gentle grip on the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, carefully lift the assembly upward toward the top of your device. You’ve got this!
Step 52
– With one hand on the headphone jack assembly, gently pull it away from the iPad, being careful of any cables that might try to tag along for the ride.
Step 53
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the rear-facing camera from its cozy spot on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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Step 54
– The headphone jack board is still in place.
