How to Replace iPad 4G Cellular Data Antenna: Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 62 Steps
This guide is your go-to for swapping out the correct antenna. Let’s get that connection back on track!
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little scrub-a-dub before diving in, as any stubborn bits of gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, just like a tasty treat waiting to be warmed up!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick reminder to keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair journey. If it gets too hot, it might just pop like a balloon! So, let’s keep the heat below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit puffy, steer clear of it!
Still feeling the heat in the middle? No worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another heat-up. Remember, a well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a quick thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave.
– As you work through your repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by giving it another thirty seconds in the microwave whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Be cautious with the iOpener—it’s going to be quite toasty! Grab an oven mitt if you need to keep your fingers safe.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the toasty middle.
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Step 4
Don’t have a microwave? No worries! Just pop your iOpener in some boiling water to heat it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely immerse that iOpener.
– Heat the water until it starts to bubble, then turn off the heat.
– Pop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes, ensuring it’s fully submerged and getting all cozy.
– Use some tongs to carefully fish out the heated iOpener from the water.
– Give that iOpener a good towel dry – no one likes a soggy iOpener!
– And voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little warmth again, just repeat the boiling water trick for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a trusty uncoiled paperclip and gently pop out that SIM tray like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out from its cozy little home and give it a warm farewell as you pull it away from your iPad.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one like a pro.
Step 7
Don’t forget to rock those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is a little worse for wear, let’s keep it from shattering further and protect yourself while you tackle this repair! Grab some tape and cover that glass up.
– Layer on some clear packing tape over the iPad’s screen, overlapping the strips until the entire face is shielded.
– Now, dive into the rest of the guide! Just a heads up, once the glass starts to crack, it might keep on doing its thing as you work. You might find a metal prying tool handy to help scoop out those pesky shards.
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty with that broken glass, make sure to rock a pair of safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from flying your way!
– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it sits snugly for a solid contact with the surface. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Give it a little time – let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in to pop open the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that pesky wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be gentle, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. We’re going to use this little opening to our advantage!
– Now, let’s get the tool ready! Position it near the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip to widen that crack a bit. You’ve got this!
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly in the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the same space, right alongside the tool. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Carefully take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about 0.5 inches deep. You’re doing great!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take your time and be careful!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out just a tad. While getting the pick in there won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive goop on the LCD. No biggie, just part of the adventure!
– As the iOpener works its magic on the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive along the way.
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Step 15
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to scoot the warm iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad. This little dance depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your trusty opening pick is having a bit of a sticky situation with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad. Keep at it, and you’ll be releasing that adhesive in no time!
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Step 16
– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will keep the adhesive from sticking back down like it just can’t let go.
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat and then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s get this party started!
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Step 17
Hey there! Just a heads-up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given how the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to take your time and be gentle. Rush it, and you might just end up causing some serious trouble for the antenna. So, let’s keep it cool and handle it with care!
– Alright, friends, it’s time to proceed with a sprinkle of caution!
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, but be careful—those delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad are like little treasures. Take a deep breath and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: steer clear of sliding that pick beyond the bottom right corner. Doing so might give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide that trusty opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up the adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
Take your time and gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Be careful—there’s a Wi-Fi antenna lurking near the corner that can easily get damaged if you don’t handle the adhesive just right. You’ve got this!
Just a friendly tip: don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Give it a little tug so about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under there.
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– After you’ve successfully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right by the home button), gently re-insert the opening pick all the way in.
– Now, slide that pick to the right to break free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass.
Step 21
Keep the iOpener under a minute of heating at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before giving it another round of warmth.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chill along the bottom edge, just give that iOpener another warm-up to get the sticky goodness back to a cozy temperature for your work.
– Keep on gently peeling back the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad. Slide that trusty opening pick around the home button, making sure to pull it out far enough, and then pop it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you’ve navigated past the home button. You’re doing great!
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Step 22
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad until it’s all free and clear!
– Once you’re in the groove, slide the opening pick right under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 24
If the adhesive is feeling a bit too cool, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on moving. If your iOpener has also cooled down too much, give it a little reheat to get things back on track.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This section has some pretty strong adhesive, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious—no one wants a slip-up that could hurt you or your iPad!
– If the pick seems to be sticking in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still clinging on like a stubborn friend, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you’re sliding that pick, just chill and stop when you’re around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to release that pesky adhesive as you go along. The adhesive is pretty slim here thanks to the digitizer running down the whole left side. Just be careful not to go too deep—keep it at a maximum of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any unintentional damage to the digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 27
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is only about 1 inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive in the bottom left corner like a pro!
Step 28
It looks like some of that sticky stuff around the edge of your iPad decided to play nice and reattach itself. No worries! Just grab a pick and slide it under the part where the front glass is still hanging on tight, and give that adhesive a little snip-snip action.
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s up, give it a friendly pinch with your fingers to hold it in place.
Step 29
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be clinging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive holding the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints on the LCD before placing the glass back on. A little clean-up goes a long way!
Step 30
– Unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD tight to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of that LCD out of your iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest on top of the front panel like it’s taking a well-deserved break.
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s holding down the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’re almost there!
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Step 33
– First things first, give that LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector a little flip to pop up the retaining flap. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a gentle touch using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board. Easy peasy!
– And hey, if your iPad decides to be a little stubborn and the LCD screen isn’t lighting up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, don’t panic! Just hold down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until you see that lovely Apple logo. You’re almost there!
Step 34
– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up that piece of tape holding down the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Let’s get those connections ready for some action!
Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break the adhesive seal. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy sockets on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the cable stuck to the back of the aluminum case. You’re doing great!
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Step 39
– With a gentle tug, slide the touchscreen ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully detach the front panel from your iPad and give it a little love as you do.
Step 40
– Gently peel back that sneaky piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time to set it free!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and use the tip to lift up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable snug against the logic board. You’re doing great!
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Step 41
– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, freeing it from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear aluminum frame.
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy little socket on the logic board.
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Step 42
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector under wraps.
– Lift the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector with a little flick.
– With your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 43
– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Start by taking out the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board snugly against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 44
As you gently move the headphone jack assembly cable aside, just remember to take it easy on the headphone jack itself—yanking too hard might just send it packing!
– Keep that headphone jack assembly cable out of your way and gently pop the SIM board out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
Step 45
– Gently peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding the headphone jack assembly in place. You’ve got this!
Step 46
– Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’re almost there!
Step 47
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the flat end to lift the front-facing camera out of its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly.
– Keep that spudger handy! Slide it to the right to release the adhesive that’s keeping the camera cable snug as a bug.
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Step 48
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– Now, slide the spudger’s tip under the microphone ribbon cable and pop it out of its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
– Give the spudger a little nudge to the left to break the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable snug against the headphone jack assembly. You’re almost there!
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Step 49
– Gently slide the flat end of the spudger under the antenna connector cable and lift it out of its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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Step 50
– Gently lift the retaining flap that’s holding down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector to the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
– Carefully detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
Step 51
– Unscrew the screws holding the headphone jack assembly in place and let’s get this party started!
Step 52
– Grasp the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and gently tug it parallel to the iPad, guiding it towards the bottom of the device. You’ve got this!
Step 53
– With both hands, grab the headphone jack assembly and gently pull it out from the iPad, being careful of any cables that might try to hitch a ride.
Step 54
If you see any bits of electrical tape hanging around, go ahead and peel them off the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and dock connector cable. Let’s clear the way for a smooth repair journey!
Step 55
Remember to gently pry underneath the connector, not the socket itself. Giving the socket a poke could lead to some serious damage, and we definitely want to avoid that!
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy little homes on the logic board:
Step 56
– Unscrew those seven little warriors holding the logic board to the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!
Step 57
– Carefully flip the logic board over, keeping an eye out for any sneaky cables that might want to hitch a ride.
– With the finesse of a pro, use the tip of your spudger to gently detach the three antenna connectors from their cozy little homes on the logic board.
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Step 58
When you’re peeling off the EMI tape from the cable, remember to slide that iSesamo between the tape and the cable, not between the cable and the aluminum housing. Keep it smooth and easy!
– Gently use the tip of your iSesamo or the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel away the metal EMI tape that’s cozying up to the antenna cable. It’s a simple step that’ll help you on your repair journey!
Step 59
– Unscrew the two 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the antenna tight against the aluminum frame. Let’s get that antenna free!
Step 60
– With a gentle touch, use your fingers or a spudger to pop the antenna out of its cozy socket, giving it a little twist toward the bottom of the device.
– Double-check that the orange ribbon cable slides through its designated hole in the aluminum frame without a hitch.
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Step 61
– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the sticky tape holding the antenna cable to the aluminum frame—think of it as giving the tape a little nudge to say, ‘Time to let go!’
– Now, give the cable a little slide to the left, and voilà! The adhesive is released, and you’re one step closer to your repair adventure.
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Step 62
– Grip that antenna cable like a pro and gently wiggle it off the aluminum frame.
– Carefully detach the antenna from the iPad, keeping an eye on any cables that might want to join the party.
