How To Replace iPad 4G Left Cellular Data Antenna
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 61 Steps
Heads up! Before diving into this repair, make sure you’ve got all the right tools and a cozy workspace. If you run into any bumps along the way, remember, it’s totally okay to ask for help. You can always schedule a repair if you need a hand!
Get ready to tackle the task of swapping out that cellular data antenna! We’re here to guide you through this repair, step by step. If you hit a snag or need a helping hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before you dive in. Any leftover gunk on the bottom could end up sticking to your iOpener, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Pop that iOpener right in the center of the microwave and let it warm up for a bit!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair journey. Let’s avoid any overheating drama – a bursting iOpener is not the vibe we’re going for! Make sure to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space – safety first!
If the middle of the iOpener feels too hot to handle, no worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another heat-up. A perfectly warmed iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work through your repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. When it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the good vibes going.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might just be your new best friend!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that warm center. You’re doing great!
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Step 4
If you’re not rocking a microwave, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to give it a nice warm-up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Heat that water until it’s boiling hot, then go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s completely submerged!
– Using tongs (because safety first!), fish out the warm iOpener from the water.
– Give it a good towel dry to make sure it’s all set.
– And voila! Your iOpener is all prepped and ready to roll! If you ever need to reheat it, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it chill in the water for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a trusty uncoiled paperclip and gently pop out that SIM tray like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy spot and set it aside, just like that! Now, if you’re swapping out the SIM card, give it a little pop to release it from the tray and slide in the shiny new one. You’re doing great!
Step 7
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with care—it’s a delicate beauty!
– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep the chaos to a minimum and avoid any accidental ouchies while you tackle this repair by sticking some tape on it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. Think of it as giving your device a protective hug!
– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide. Keep in mind, once the glass starts cracking, it might want to keep on cracking while you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces, so just roll with it!
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: when you’re dealing with broken glass, it’s a great idea to rock some safety glasses to shield yourself from any pesky shards that might fly your way. Stay safe and repair on!
– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it makes good contact with the surface. Give it a little love by smoothing it out.
– Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little elbow grease. No worries—just take your time and gently wiggle the tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Look closely at the upper right corner of your iPad – there’s a sneaky little gap in the adhesive ring, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Time to take advantage of this tiny flaw!
– Now, let’s get to work! Line up your tool with the mute button, and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip, enough to nudge the crack open a bit.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right beside it. You’re doing great—keep it steady!
Step 12
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick in a bit deeper beneath the front glass—aim for about 0.5 inches. You’ve got this!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While diving in this deep with the pick won’t cause any harm, it might leave some adhesive remnants on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go.
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Step 15
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad while you gently peel away the adhesive. This little dance depends on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is having a tough time breaking free from the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff.
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Step 16
– Before you whip out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, pop a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it up at the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the unique layout of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to handle it gently to avoid any damage that could be a real bummer.
– Alright, folks, it’s time to put on your thinking caps and proceed with care! We’re diving into some delicate territory here.
– You’ll need to carefully detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep those fragile parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, take your time and follow the upcoming steps with precision!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: avoid sliding that pick too far past the bottom right corner. You wouldn’t want to accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, right?
– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking just around the corner. Be gentle, because if you accidentally release the adhesive the wrong way, it could be a little too close for comfort!
Just a friendly tip: don’t fully yank that pick out from under the front glass! Instead, gently pull it out a smidge so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under the glass. Keep it chill and steady!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or just a hop away from the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, give that pick a little slide to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Keep the iOpener in check! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a cool down of at least two minutes before you heat it up again. Safety first, but we know you’ve got this!
– Keep on gently peeling back that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Make sure to pull that opening pick out just enough to wrap around the home button, then pop it back in, pushing it in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared the home button. You’re doing great!
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Step 22
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Pop the opening pick under the front glass by the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 24
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, just swap the iOpener back to the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a reheat!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little nudge to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is quite sturdy, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful—nobody wants to slip and accidentally give your iPad a new dent!
– If the opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still playing hard to get, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and give that opening pick a little dance around the top left corner.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to stop sliding that pick when you’re around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’re doing great, keep it up!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just be careful not to push the pick too deep (keep it to a max of 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 27
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and make sure to keep that cable intact while you work.
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 28
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Use your fingers to hold it steady and keep going!
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky stuff still keeping that front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. It’s like a little dance move!
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to give your LCD a little love! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of that LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, give the LCD a little rotation along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front panel. Keep it steady!
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Step 32
– With the spudger in hand, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector snug and secure. You’re doing great!
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Step 33
– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to gracefully slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
– If your iPad seems to be taking a nap and the LCD screen refuses to wake up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, give it a quick reboot by holding down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until the Apple logo makes a grand appearance.
Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without putting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Lift up the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the adhesive that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place. You’ve got this!
– Once you’ve loosened it up, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab a spudger. Use its flat end to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s keeping the cable stuck to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 39
– With a gentle touch, carefully pull the touchscreen ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Now, it’s time to take off the front panel of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 40
– Gently peel away that piece of electrical tape that’s hanging out over the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time to let it breathe!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and use its tip to lift up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable snugly to the logic board. You’re doing great!
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Step 41
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to break the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 42
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector under wraps.
– Lift up the little flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector with a friendly flick.
– With a spudger in hand, carefully wiggle the SIM board cable and pull it straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 43
– Unscrew those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the SIM board snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 44
As you gently move the headphone jack assembly cable aside, remember to be a little cautious! Don’t tug too hard on the headphone jack, or you might end up with a little surprise—like it tearing off!
– Keep that headphone jack assembly cable out of the way and gently wiggle the SIM board out of your iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 45
– Gently peel back the adhesive tape that’s holding the headphone jack assembly in place and remove it like a pro.
Step 46
– Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s keeping the camera cable snugly attached to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 47
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera off its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to move!’
– Keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right—this will help release the adhesive that’s been keeping the camera cable snug as a bug. You’re doing great!
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Step 48
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
– Slide the tip of the spudger underneath the microphone ribbon cable and free it from the ZIF connector.
– Now, give that spudger a little slide to the left to break the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable stuck to the headphone jack assembly.
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Step 49
– Gently use the flat end of the spudger to lift the antenna connector cable out of its cozy little home on the headphone jack assembly board.
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Step 50
– Gently lift the retaining flap that’s holding down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector to the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
– Carefully detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
Step 51
– Take a moment to carefully unscrew the following screws from the headphone jack assembly:
Step 52
– While gently grasping the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, smoothly slide the assembly down along the iPad, heading toward the bottom of the device.
Step 53
– With both hands, gently grab the headphone jack assembly and carefully pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any sneaky cables that might try to tag along.
Step 54
If you’ve got some electrical tape hanging out, go ahead and peel it off the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and dock connector cable. Let’s get those connections free and ready to roll!
Step 55
Be sure to gently pry under the connector, not the socket itself! Giving the socket a little too much love can lead to some serious damage. Let’s keep things safe and sound!
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy homes on the logic board:
Step 56
– Get ready to channel your inner tech wizard! Start by unscrewing the seven screws that are keeping the logic board snug against the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!
Step 57
– Carefully flip the logic board over, keeping an eye on any cables that might get tangled up.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop off the three antenna connectors from their snug spots on the logic board.
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Step 59
– Carefully take out the lone 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s holding the cellular data antenna cable snug against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 61
Hey there! Make sure the cellular data antenna cable is lined up just right, parallel to the aluminum frame, before you slide it through its hole. Don’t be tempted to push it through forcefully, or you might end up with a damaged connector. You’ve got this!
