How to Replace iPad 4G SIM Board – Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 41 Steps
Heads up! Before you dive in, make sure you’re in a well-lit area and have everything you need. If you’re feeling stuck at any point, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert assistance!
A malfunctioning SIM board is like a flat tire on your 4G adventure. Instead of being stuck on the Wi-Fi backroads, let’s get you back on the fast lane! Follow this guide to swap out the SIM board in your third generation iPad 4G and hit the road again. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. That way, you won’t have any pesky residue sticking to the iOpener during your repair journey!
– Pop that iOpener right in the center of your microwave and let it warm up a bit!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating can make it pop like a surprise party, so let’s not let it get over 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, give it some space.
If the center of the iOpener feels a bit too toasty to handle, don’t worry! Just keep using it while it cools off a bit. A well-heated iOpener should stay nice and warm for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up session in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you dive into the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to lose its heat, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!
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Step 3
The iOpener is going to be super toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if you need it.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the toasty center.
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil and then turn off the heat—safety first!
– Gently place your iOpener into the steamy water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged for the best results.
– Using tongs (or something similar), carefully pull out the warm iOpener from the hot water.
– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel to keep things neat.
– Voila! Your iOpener is now ready to rock! If it needs a little reheating, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and give that SIM tray a gentle push to pop it out. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little spot and take it away from your iPad.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one!
Step 7
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – we want it to stay in one piece!
– Got a cracked display? Let’s keep that glass from shattering further and protect those fingers while you work your magic by taping it up!
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s fully covered. It’ll look a bit like a shiny masterpiece!
– Now, follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: once that glass starts cracking, it might keep on going. You may need to get a little creative and use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out when it gets stubborn.
Step 8
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: when dealing with broken glass, it’s a smart idea to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from flying your way and keep your eyes safe. Stay protected and happy repairing!
– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it’s making solid contact with the surface. Smooth it out for the best results!
– Give it a little time—let the bag rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that snug tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Just take your time and stay calm, gently wiggling the tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Look for a sneaky little gap in the adhesive ring of your iPad, right there in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. It’s your ticket to getting started!
– Now, let’s get that tool in action! Line it up with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge with the tip will do—enough to make that crack a bit wider.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the tiny gap right beside the tool. You’re on your way to a smooth repair!
Step 12
– Take that plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass—aim for about 0.5 inches, like a pro!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Just take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking under the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out a smidge. Using the pick at this depth won’t cause any harm, but it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD, so be prepared for that.
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, freeing the adhesive as you move along.
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Step 15
As you’re peeling away the adhesive, you might find it helpful to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. Just keep an eye on how long your iPad has been cooling while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick seems to be having a tough time with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff!
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and pluck that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep that sticky adhesive from making any new friends!
– Give your iOpener a little heat-up dance, and then shimmy it over to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things warm and cozy!
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Step 17
Hey there! Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with some screws and a cable. Given its position, it’s super important to handle it with care to avoid any unintended damage to the antenna. You’ve got this!
– Alright, folks! As we dive into the next steps, remember to tread lightly. We’re about to release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna snugly against the front panel. Just a heads up: we want to keep the delicate bits connected to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, let’s take it step by step and keep our focus sharp!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a bit of a rough time, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free that pesky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is hiding just around the corner. If you’re not careful and accidentally release the adhesive the wrong way, it could be a bumpy ride for that little guy. So, take it slow and steady!
Just a friendly tip: don’t go yanking that pick out from under the front glass completely! Instead, gently pull it out just a smidge so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays nestled under the glass. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the edge of your opening pick along the bottom of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– After you’ve gracefully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to reinsert that trusty opening pick all the way in.
– Now, slide that pick to the right and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass gives way. Easy peasy!
Step 21
Keep it cool! Don’t zap that iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you warm it up again.
– Keep on peeling that adhesive from the bottom of the iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to sneak around the home button, then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve cruised past the home button.
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Step 22
– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad, like you’re unwrapping a gift!
– Once you’ve made some progress, let the opening pick chill under the front glass near the home button. It’s got a cozy spot there!
Step 24
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. And if the iOpener itself is feeling chilly, give it a little reheating love!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is pretty strong, so don’t be shy to apply some pressure. Just take your time and stay focused to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling warm enough, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad to make things easier for yourself. But if it’s still pretty sticky, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the job.
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, then gently slide that opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Time to stop sliding that pick when you reach roughly 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick down the left edge of your iPad, letting the adhesive loosen up as you go. The adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer that runs along the entire left side. Just be sure to keep the pick shallow (no deeper than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 27
Be extra careful here! The digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently peel back the adhesive in the bottom left corner to set yourself up for success.
Step 28
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a little squeeze with your fingers to hold it in place.
Step 29
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky bits that might be keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put things back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean sweep. Dust and fingerprints don’t stand a chance!
Step 30
– Take a moment to grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the four 2 mm screws that are holding the LCD snug against the aluminum frame. You’re doing great!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger, and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, give that LCD a little rotation along its left edge and place it gently on top of the front panel. Nice and easy!
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a treasure chest.
– With a little finesse from your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.
– If your iPad is playing hard to get and the LCD screen is still in snooze mode after you’ve reconnected the ZIF connector, just give it a little nudge by pressing and holding the power button and home button for about ten seconds. Wait for the Apple logo to pop up and you’re back in business!
Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel without getting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that holds the touchscreen ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You’re on the right track!
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Step 36
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Let’s get that connection ready for action!
Step 37
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break the adhesive seal. It’s like giving it a little nudge!
– Once it’s loose, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board. No tugging needed; it should come out smoothly!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 39
– With a gentle touch, coax the touchscreen ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully detach the front panel from the iPad.
Step 40
– Carefully take out the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the SIM board snugly attached to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 41
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable, remember to take it easy on the headphone jack itself—yanking too hard might just send it packing!
– Keep the headphone jack assembly cable out of your way and gently take out the SIM board from your iPad.