How to Replace iPad 4G Wi-Fi Antenna Guide

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 46 Steps

Wireless internet is pretty great, right? But a third-generation iPad without Wi-Fi? Not so much. Follow this guide to swap out that broken Wi-Fi antenna and get back online!

Step 1

– Set the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s the star of the show.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 2

– Give your iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.

– As you dive into the repair, keep the love alive by reheating the iOpener in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 3

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot center.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely submerge your iOpener. We’re talking a cozy bath for your tool!

– Bring that water to a rolling boil and then, with a flick of the wrist, turn off the heat. Safety first!

– Gently place your iOpener into the warm embrace of the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged—no iOpener left behind!

– Using some tongs, carefully lift out the heated iOpener from its steamy spa. Watch out, it’s hot!

– Give your iOpener a good towel-dry to ensure it’s all set and ready for action.

– Voilà! Your iOpener is prepped and primed for use! If it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the water-boiling process and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 5

– If your display glass has seen better days and is cracked, let’s keep the mess contained and avoid any accidental injuries during your repair journey by giving that glass a little tape hug.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over your iPad’s display until it’s completely covered – think of it as a protective shield!

– Now, dive into the rest of the guide as best as you can! Just a heads up, once the glass starts to break, it might want to keep cracking while you work. You might find a metal prying tool handy to help scoop the glass out.

Step 6

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a little love tap to ensure it’s making solid contact with the surface.

– Let that cozy bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and try to lift the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 7

– Hey there! You’ll notice a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. It’s your golden opportunity to dive in and get started!

– Now, let’s get that tool aligned with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just poke in the very tip—enough to create a little wiggle room!

Step 8

– Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

Step 9

– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside your tool. You’re doing great—keep it up!

Step 10

– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad. Now, slide that opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch or so. You’ve got this!

Step 11

– As you gently work to loosen the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat love and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 12

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s start peeling away that pesky adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 13

– If your opening pick is playing hard to get in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep that sticky stuff at bay.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 14

– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick right under the edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Give your iOpener a little reheating love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep that warmth flowing!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 15

– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread carefully! The next few steps are a bit like navigating a tightrope, so keep your eyes peeled.

– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Remember, we want to keep the delicate bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, let’s follow these steps with a steady hand and a watchful eye!

Step 16

– Gently slide that trusty opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way. You’re doing great!

Step 17

– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, setting the adhesive free around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

Step 18

– Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches, or 75 mm, from the right edge, right next to the home button), gently reinsert the opening pick all the way in.

– Now, slide that pick to the right to free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’ve got this!

Step 19

– Keep working that adhesive loose at the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past the button, slide it back in to about a depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) for the next step.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 20

– Keep peeling away the adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Position the opening pick snugly beneath the front glass near the home button.

Step 21

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a bit, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help to warm up the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 22

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive here is quite stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of elbow grease. Take it slow and steady, and watch out for any slips that could lead to mishaps with your iPad.

– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 23

– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently work the opening pick around that top left corner. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 24

– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, easing that adhesive away as you go! The adhesive is a bit on the thin side here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

Step 25

– With that trusty opening pick still snugly resting under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!

Step 26

– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.

Step 27

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a little love—clean off any dust or fingerprints before sealing it up with the glass.

Step 28

– Start by unscrewing the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

Step 29

– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently nudge the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad.

– Now, swing the LCD around its left edge and set it down nicely on the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 30

– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 31

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s like opening a tiny door!

– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its snug home on the logic board.

– If your iPad seems to be playing hard to get and the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try giving it a gentle nudge by holding down the power button and home button for at least ten seconds. Keep your eyes peeled for the Apple logo to pop up!

Step 32

– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without getting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!

Step 33

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the piece of tape that’s holding the touchscreen ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 34

– Lift the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors with care.

Step 35

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable and loosen up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 36

– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the cable tight against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 37

– With a gentle touch, carefully pull the touchscreen ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Now, let’s take off the front panel of the iPad. You’ve got this!

Step 38

Step 39

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift that dock connector cable straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Carefully peel the dock connector cable away from the aluminum frame, giving it a little wiggle if needed.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 40

– Let’s get started! First, grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove those two 1.8 mm screws that are holding the dock connector snugly to the back of the aluminum case.

Step 41

– With the flat side of a spudger in hand, gently lift the dock connector up and away.

– Carefully remove the dock connector from the iPad.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 42

– Gently use the spudger’s tip to lift the speaker and Wi-Fi antenna connectors straight up from their sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 43

– Let’s get those screws out! Start by removing the screws that are holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

Step 44

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the foam adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug with the speaker assembly. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 45

– Grab that Wi-Fi antenna and speaker cable like a pro!

– Now, with a gentle touch, ease those cables away from the aluminum frame.

Step 46

– Let’s get those cables untangled! First, gently separate the speaker cable from the Wi-Fi antenna cable.

– Now, it’s time to free the Wi-Fi cable from the iPad. You’ve got this!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

🍪
Have a cookie! This site uses cookies to enhance your experience. Opt-Out Options.