How to Replace iPad CDMA Dock Connector Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to take your time and follow each step closely. Mistakes happen, but we believe in your ability to get it right! If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to reach out for help. You can always schedule a repair if you need a hand!
Ready to tackle the dock connector replacement? Let’s dive in! Just a heads-up: some of the visuals in this guide feature a Wi-Fi model, so you might notice a few differences in the internals compared to the cellular version. But don’t worry, the process is pretty much the same for both models, with a few exceptions noted along the way. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before diving in, it’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean. Trust us, that pesky gunk on the bottom can cling to the iOpener like it’s on a mission. Keep things tidy and make your repair process smoother!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating is a no-go, as it could cause the iOpener to pop. Remember, no heating above 100˚C (212˚F)!
If the iOpener looks a bit puffed up, steer clear of it!
If the middle of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit longer before giving it another warm-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you tackle the repair, keep the iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Caution: the iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might be your new best friend here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grip one of the flat ends so you steer clear of that toasty center.
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Step 4
If you don’t have a microwave on hand, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Get that water boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Now, gently lower your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged; we want it to feel all warm and fuzzy.
– Using some tongs (because we don’t want any hot water surprises), carefully pull the iOpener out of the pot.
– Give it a thorough dry with a towel. We want it looking sharp!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more heat, just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—let’s keep it in one piece!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep it from shattering into a million pieces and protect yourself while you work. Grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape all over the iPad’s display until it’s completely sealed up. Think of it as giving your device a cozy blanket!
– Now, follow the rest of the guide step by step. Just a heads-up: once the glass starts to crack, it might keep on doing its thing while you work. You may need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the broken bits.
Step 6
Just a heads up! As you might be dealing with some tricky broken glass during this process, we highly suggest rocking some safety glasses to keep those pesky shards from flying your way.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it’s nice and snug for optimal contact.
– Give the bag a little time to work its magic—let it rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds before diving into opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic tool a little wiggle as needed. You’ve got this!
– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s use this little weakness to our advantage!
– Position your tool near the mute button. Carefully insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip of the tool to gently widen that crack a bit.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly wedged between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to the tool. You’re doing great—keep it steady!
Step 10
– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches deep. You’ve got this!
Step 12
This adhesive means business! You might need to put in some serious elbow grease, so take it slow and steady.
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. Using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might leave some sticky adhesive marks on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– While you’re warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, go ahead and start peeling back the adhesive on the right edge of the iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it do its thing and releasing that adhesive along the way.
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Step 13
As you start releasing that sticky adhesive, you might want to scoot the heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad. Just keep in mind, how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy tinkering can influence this little dance.
– If your opening pick decides to play hard to get in the adhesive, simply give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep going and you’ll be freeing that sticky stuff in no time!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pull that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, pop a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again!
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it at the top edge of your iPad. Let’s keep things nice and warm for a smooth opening!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the antenna’s unique positioning, it’s super important to handle this part with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some permanent damage. So, let’s be gentle and take our time!
– Alright, folks! Time to put on your careful cap because the next steps need a gentle touch.
– We need to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just a heads-up: be extra gentle with those delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow along closely and you’ll do great!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick too far past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that pesky adhesive. You’re doing great!
Step 17
Take your time and gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna hangs out pretty close to the corner and can get snipped if you don’t handle the adhesive with care. You’ve got this!
Keep that pick snug under the front glass—just a little wiggle! Pull it out gently until about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip is still tucked away. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the edge of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, and watch as the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna gives way like a champ.
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve danced past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right near the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, glide that pick to the right, freeing up the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s hot streak to just one minute at a time, and remember to give it a two-minute breather before warming it up again!
– Keep sliding that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad, and gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve made it past the home button, reinsert the pick to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling back that sticky stuff all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!
– Slide that opening pick in just beneath the front glass near the home button and leave it there like a little buddy.
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chilly, just swap the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. And if your iOpener is feeling a little under the weather, give it a quick reheat!
– Gently slide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so don’t be shy about applying some muscle. Just take it slow and steady, and keep an eye on your iPad to avoid any mishaps.
– If your pick seems to be having a tough time with the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ action as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still clingy, give the iOpener another heat-up and set it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you get to around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting the adhesive loosen up as you go. The adhesive here is pretty slim thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just keep the pick shallow—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be extra careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work with precision to avoid cutting this cable.
– With that trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, go ahead and gently free the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it in place.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be lingering around, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive that’s still keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the device like you’re unveiling a surprise!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, be sure to give that LCD a little love with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints before sealing it up again.
Step 28
– Get ready to tackle this! First up, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove those four 2.0 mm screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out of the rear case like a pro.
– Carefully lay the LCD down on the front panel, just like you see in the second picture. You’ve got this!
Step 30
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently help lift that pesky tape off the end of the dock connector cable.
– With the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool, delicately pry the dock connector cable’s connector up from its snug home on the logic board.
– Carefully peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel.
– Remember, don’t yank the cable completely out; it’s still happily attached to the rear panel.
Step 31
– Unscrew those two 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the dock connector snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Gently tug the dock connector away from the edge of the rear panel and set it free from the iPad 2.
