How to Replace iPad CDMA Home Button Control Board
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 35 Steps
Hey there, tech wizard! Before diving into the repair adventure, remember to power down your device and give it a little break. Safety first, right? And if you find yourself in a pickle, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us!
Get ready to tackle the home button control board replacement with this handy guide! While some of the shots are from a Wi-Fi model, don’t worry—the insides might look a bit different on the cellular model, but the steps are just the same, with a few exceptions noted along the way. So roll up your sleeves, and let’s get to it! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before diving in, give your microwave a little TLC. A quick clean-up will prevent any sticky mess from getting cozy with your iOpener.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair journey! Overheating it might lead to a dramatic burst, and we definitely don’t want that. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth ride.
If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, it’s best to steer clear and not touch it. Safety first, always!
If the center of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, hang tight and let it cool down a bit before you give it another round of heating. A well-heated iOpener should keep the warmth for about 10 minutes, so you’ve got some time!
– Give your iOpener a cozy thirty-second spa session in the microwave.
– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener warm and happy by popping it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Be cautious with the iOpener—it’s going to be pretty toasty! If it feels too hot to handle, grab an oven mitt and give your hands a break.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the two flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the toasty center.
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your kitchen arsenal, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water to get it warmed up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice soak.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first, right?
– Now, carefully place the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a full dip!
– Using some trusty tongs, fish out the heated iOpener from the water.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry to make sure it’s ready to go.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If you ever need to reheat it, just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care to avoid any mishaps.
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep it from shattering further and keep your fingers safe during the fix by applying some tape over it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips across the iPad’s display until it’s all snugly covered.
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind, once the glass is cracked, it may want to keep cracking as you work. You might need to bring in a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly heads-up: when dealing with broken glass during this process, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses to shield your eyes from any pesky shards that might fly your way.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a little love by ensuring it makes good contact with the surface. Smooth it out like you’re giving your device a gentle back rub.
– Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and start opening up the front panel. Patience is key, my friend!
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Just stay cool and take your time, gently wiggling the plastic tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Spot a tiny opening in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!
– Position your tool near the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge the very tip of the opening tool in there, enough to help widen the gap.
Step 9
– While keeping the plastic opening tool snugly in the gap between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that space, right next to the trusty plastic opening tool. You got this!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass, about half an inch or so. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a little muscle. Take your time and be gentle with it!
If the tip of your trusty opening pick is peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While you won’t cause any harm by going this deep, be ready for a bit of adhesive residue that might decide to stick around on the LCD. Just keep it cool, and remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– While the bottom edge is warming up with the iOpener, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, releasing that sticky stuff as you move along.
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Step 13
As you gently peel away the adhesive, it might be a good idea to reposition that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad. This little move depends on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been busy with your repairs.
– If your opening pick seems to be a bit stubborn and gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad. Keep at it, and you’ll be freeing that adhesive in no time!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pull that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down, giving you a smoother experience.
– Give that iOpener a little reheat action, then place it at the top edge of the iPad to keep everything nice and toasty.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out at the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case, secured with screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned just so, it’s super important to be gentle and careful—otherwise, you might accidentally give that antenna some lasting damage!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! These next steps are all about being gentle.
– You’ll need to carefully peel back the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we’re on a mission to keep those delicate parts connected to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So take it slow and follow the upcoming steps with care!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly heads-up: don’t slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You could accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently slide that trusty opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, letting the adhesive loosen its grip. You’ve got this!
Step 17
Take it easy and slide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out right by the corner, and if the adhesive gets a little too wild, it could end up getting cut. So, keep it steady and smooth!
Just a little tip: don’t fully yank that pick from under the front glass! Give it a gentle tug so about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under there.
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s holding on to the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches, or 75 mm, from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to reinsert that trusty opening pick all the way in.
– Now, slide that pick to the right and let it do its magic, freeing the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heat game strong, but don’t overdo it—just a minute at a time! And remember to give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before you heat it up again. You’re doing great!
If the adhesive has decided to cool down a bit too much on the bottom edge, just give that iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you’re working. You’ve got this!
– Keep on gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Slide that trusty opening pick around the home button, making sure to pull it out just enough to get the job done. Once you’ve navigated past the home button, reinsert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!
– Once you’re in, leave the opening pick snugly placed under the front glass near the home button. It’s like a little buddy holding the fort!
Step 22
If your adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap in the iOpener along the top edge and keep at it! And if that iOpener isn’t feeling warm enough, give it a little reheat to get back in the game!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take it easy and proceed with caution to avoid any mishaps for you or your iPad.
– If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for some easy handling. But if it’s still a bit clingy, just give the iOpener another heat-up session and rest it on the left edge while you get to work!
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and smoothly glide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to pause your pick sliding adventure!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, and watch that adhesive let go like magic! It’s nice and thin here thanks to the digitizer running along that whole side. Just keep the pick at a shallow angle (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful, folks! That digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and make sure not to snip that little guy while you’re working.
– Grab that trusty opening pick you’ve got snugly under the bottom edge of your iPad. It’s time to gently peel back the adhesive hanging out in the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad, then give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be clinging on! Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any sticky spots that are keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give that front glass a gentle twist away from the device like you’re opening a treasure chest.
– When it’s time to put things back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before sealing it up with the glass.
Step 28
– Let’s get those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws outta there! They’re holding the LCD tight to the rear case, and we need to free it up. Grab your trusty screwdriver and let’s make this happen!
Step 29
– The front panel’s ribbon cables are tucked away beneath the LCD. To get to them, you’ll want to gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
– Start by lifting the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and carefully flipping it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in a book!
– Now, place the LCD face down on the front panel, giving it a cozy spot to rest.
Step 30
Just a friendly reminder: make sure you’re gently lifting on those nifty hinged retaining flaps, and not the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in bright red for your convenience!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift up those retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets like a pro! You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. Think of it as peeling a sticker off a prize—easy does it!
– Now, with a little finesse, carefully peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the side of the rear case. Remember, slow and steady wins the race!
Step 32
– Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two snug little homes on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 33
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll want to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Don’t forget to shift the LCD around a bit to create some extra space for this move.
– Start by lifting the LCD from its long edge that’s away from the digitizer cable, then gently fold it back like you’re closing a book. Easy does it!
– While you’re holding that LCD up, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a heads up—be sure to avoid snagging the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Carefully unscrew those two 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the home button control board snugly to the home button assembly. You’re doing great!
Step 35
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the home button control board away from its cozy spot on the front panel.
– Now, carefully lift the home button control board off the front panel assembly and set it aside.
