How to Replace iPad GSM Lightning Connector Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Hey there, repair hero! Just a friendly reminder to take your time and double-check each step. If you hit a snag or need a helping hand, no worries! You can always schedule a repair with us. You’ve got this!
Get ready to tackle the replacement of your Lightning connector! Follow this guide, and you’ll have your device back in action in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. Any stubborn gunk hanging out at the bottom might just decide to hitch a ride on your iOpener!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of your microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Hey there, just a quick heads-up! Don’t let the iOpener get too toasty during your repair adventure. If it overheats, it might go boom! So, keep it cool and don’t heat it beyond 100ĖC (212ĖF).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of touching it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still too hot to handle, no worries! Just keep using it while you wait for it to chill a bit before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. When it starts to cool down, just give it another thirty seconds in the microwave to keep the warmth flowing.
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Step 3
The iOpener is going to be super toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if things get too hot to handle.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
Don’t have a microwave? No worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely cover that iOpener.
– Heat that water until itās bubbling away, then turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes, making sure itās all submerged and cozy.
– Using tongs, gently lift the warm iOpener out of the water.
– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel; we want it nice and ready!
– And voilĆ ! Your iOpener is all set to go! If you find it needs a little more heat, just repeat the water boiling process and give it another 2-3 minutes in the warm water.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with careāit’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is cracked, letās keep that shatter in check and avoid any accidents during your repair by applying some tape to the glass.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over your iPad’s display until the entire face is covered. It’s like giving your device a protective hug!
– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might crack a bit more as you work. You may need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass. You’ve got this!
Step 6
Just a heads up! While you’re getting hands-on with that broken glass, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from surprising you. Stay safe and keep it cool!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it makes good contact with the surface. Give it a little love by smoothing it out!
– Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before diving in to pop that front panel open.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Just take your time and be gentle. Wiggle that plastic tool back and forth like you’re dancing, and you’ll make progress in no time.
– Spot a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s your secret entry point!
– Get your tool ready and line it up with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that little gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in enough to widen the crack a bit.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right alongside the tool. You’re doing greatākeep it steady!
Step 10
– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches deep. You’ve got this!
Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so you might need to channel your inner superhero to tackle it. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of that trusty opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug! While itās perfectly safe to use the pick this way, just a heads up ā you might end up with a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, just part of the adventure!
– As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start easing the adhesive loose from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go.
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Step 13
As you start peeling away the adhesive, keep the heated iOpener close by to the right edge of the iPad. How long you need to do this might depend on how cool the iPad has gotten while you were busy working your magic.
– If your trusty opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in that adhesive, just give it a little roll along the edge of your iPad. Keep on rolling to free up that sticky stuff like a pro!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, pop a second pick right under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the sticky stuff from getting too cozy again!
– Give your iOpener a quick reheating, then place it on the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things warm and cozy while we work!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out at the bottom right corner of your iPad’s rear case, secured by screws and a cable. So, as you dive into this repair, remember to tread lightly! Mishandling it could lead to some serious Wi-Fi woes that might be tough to fix later.
– Take a deep breath and get ready, because the next few steps need a steady hand and a bit of finesse.
– It’s time to carefully detach the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember to be gentle and avoid any mishaps with the fragile parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow these steps with care, and you’ll be just fine!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick too far past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner and can easily get snipped if the adhesive doesn’t cooperate. Stay sharp and keep it steady!
Just give the pick a gentle tug and leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of its tip tucked under the front glass. No need to go all the wayākeep it cozy in there!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive thatās holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve made your way past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches from the right edge, or snug up next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’re doing great!
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right to let go of the adhesive that’s been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy with the front glass. Nice and easy!
Step 19
Keep your iOpener’s chill time in check! Heat it for just a minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before heating it up again.
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to maneuver around the home button, and then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad until it’s all gone! You’re doing great!
– Just tuck that opening pick right under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there for a bit.
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep at it! And if your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This adhesive means businessāit’s super thick! So, take your time and apply some steady pressure. Just remember to be careful so you donāt slip and accidentally turn your iPad into a puzzle piece.
– If you find the pick is having a tough time with the adhesive, try rolling it as shown in step 9. You’ve got this!
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make your life easier. But if itās still feeling a bit clingy, just warm up the iOpener again and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide that opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out just about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to hit the brakes on that pick sliding action!
– Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, and watch the adhesive give way! It’s a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer stretching across the entire left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be careful, the bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With that trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive loose at the bottom left corner. You’re almost there!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once itās popped up, give it a friendly pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any remaining adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by its top and bottom right corners and gently pivot the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a little love. Clean off any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on. A clear screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable to the side so you can reach and remove the bottom left screw.
– Get ready to tackle this step! Start by unscrewing those four little 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! The ribbon cable is a bit delicate and might snap if you bend it too much.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, give that LCD a little rotation along its left edge and place it down carefully on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
– Grab the tip of your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You got this!
– With a little finesse from your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen plays hard to get and doesnāt light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try giving your iPad a little wake-up call. Just press and hold the power button and home button for about ten seconds, until you see that lovely Apple logo. You can do it!
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Step 32
– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without putting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If you see it, go ahead and peel off that pesky piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You’re almost there!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Step 35
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy little spot in the back case.
Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the tape thatās holding the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break that sticky bond holding it down.
– Once it’s loose, give the digitizer ribbon cable a careful tug and pull it straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board.
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to nudge away the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– With a gentle touch, pull the digitizer ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
– Carefully take off the front panel from the iPad. Just think of it as giving your device a little spa day!
Step 42
If it’s there, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the Lightning connector cable. You’ve got this!
Step 44
– Unscrew those two 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the Lightning connector snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 45
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the Lightning connector cable. Give it a little nudge to lift it straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 47
– Gently yank that Lightning connector straight out of its cozy spot in the back case.
