How to Replace iPad GSM SIM Board Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 39 Steps
Hey there, tech warrior! Just a friendly reminder to handle those delicate components with care. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to reach out for assistance. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Get ready to dive in and swap out that SIM Board! It’s easier than you think, and we’re here to guide you through it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before diving in, give your microwave a little TLC! A quick clean will ensure that any unwanted grime doesn’t cling to your trusty iOpener during the process.
– Pop that iOpener right in the center of the microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We don’t want it getting too hot under the collar—overheating can lead to some serious bursting drama. So, let’s keep it under 100˚C (212˚F), alright?
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space! It’s not in the mood for a touch.
Still feeling a bit too toasty in the middle? No worries! Just hang tight and let it cool down a bit more before you heat it up again. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you go through the repair, keep an eye on your iOpener; when it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the good vibes going.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets pretty toasty, so handle it with care! A trusty oven mitt might just be your best friend here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that sizzling hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your kitchen arsenal, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first, right?
– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s completely submerged—it’s a spa day for your iOpener!
– Using tongs (because we’re not playing with hot water here), lift out your heated iOpener.
– Give it a good towel dry to get rid of any excess water.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the hot water bath for another 2-3 minutes after boiling the water again. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a trusty uncoiled paperclip and gently pop that SIM tray out. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and say goodbye to it for a moment.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, give it a little nudge to pop it out of its tray, then slide in the shiny new one with a smile!
Step 7
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with extra care—let’s keep it in one piece!
– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering into a million pieces and avoid any injuries while you tackle this repair by using some tape to secure it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until you’ve covered the entire front. It’s like giving it a nice little protective blanket!
– Now, follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass is broken, it might decide to crack a bit more as you work. You might find a metal prying tool handy to help scoop out the glass pieces.
Step 8
Just a quick heads-up! Since you might be dealing with some sharp glass bits during this process, it’s a smart idea to rock some safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay.
– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it lays nice and smooth for optimal contact with the surface.
– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Just take your time and stay cool, gently wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Look closely at your iPad’s adhesive ring—there’s a tiny little gap in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that opening!
– Now, grab your tool and line it up with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge in the very tip of the tool, just enough to make that crack a bit wider.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right beside your trusty tool. You’re doing great—keep it up!
Step 12
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch down. You’re doing great!
Step 14
This adhesive is quite the tough cookie, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle with it.
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a tad. While it’s totally fine to use the pick this deep without causing any harm, just be aware that it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Keep it cool and steady!
– As the bottom edge gets cozy with the iOpener, start peeling back the adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing the adhesive along the way. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
You might want to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad while you gently peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how long the iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is having a tough time with the adhesive, give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep on loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 16
– Before you pop that first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking again. Smart move!
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, and then place it at the top edge of your iPad. You’re on the right track!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the way the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to tread carefully to avoid causing any permanent damage. You’ve got this!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to take a deep breath and proceed with care! We’re diving into some delicate territory here.
– You’ll need to gently peel away the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, all while ensuring you don’t accidentally harm the sensitive components that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s take it step by step and keep it cool!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: avoid sliding that pick too far down to the bottom right corner. It could mess with your Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up the adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner. Be careful—if the adhesive gives way in a wild way, it might just get severed!
Just nudge that pick out a smidge from under the front glass—aim for about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip to stay cozy under there. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to peel away the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Once you’ve gracefully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that trusty opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to free the Wi-Fi antenna from its adhesive buddy holding it to the front glass.
Step 21
Keep the iOpener dance party to under a minute each time, and give it at least two minutes of cool-down before bringing it back to the heat!
– Keep on gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad. As you do this, slide that trusty opening pick around the home button, giving it a little wiggle to loosen things up. Once you’ve got the pick in place, push it in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to ensure it’s snug and ready to help you out.
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Step 22
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.
– Nestle the opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button.
Step 24
If your adhesive is feeling a bit too cool, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep on working your magic. And if the iOpener itself has lost its heat, give it a little reheating to get back in the game!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply some muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm both you and your iPad.
– If the opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a smoother ride. But if it’s still a bit too clingy, just reheat the iOpener and pop it on the left edge while you get to work. You’ve got this!
– Keep peeling away that pesky adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Once you slide your pick to about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to hit the brakes!
– Gently slide the opening pick down the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive here is pretty slim, thanks to the digitizer running along that side. Just a heads up—keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 27
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom. Take your time and be gentle so you don’t accidentally cut this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still snugly tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 28
– Take one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be hanging around, and grab an opening pick to slice through any stubborn glue keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or pesky fingerprints on the LCD before you reinstall the glass. It’s like giving your iPad a little spa day!
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the ribbon cable aside to reveal and remove the bottom left screw.
– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and steady!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, give the LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. You’ve got this!
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that sneaky piece of tape hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
– If your iPad decides to play hard to get and the LCD screen isn’t lighting up after connecting the ZIF connector, try giving it a little pep talk! Hold down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until you see that cheerful Apple logo appear. Let’s get this show on the road!
Step 34
– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface.
Step 35
– Gently peel away the electrical tape that’s cozying up to the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time for it to say goodbye!
– Grab your trusty spudger and with a little finesse, flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are keeping the headphone jack cable snug on the logic board.
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Step 36
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the headphone jack assembly cable to break free the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy little socket on the logic board.
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Step 37
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector snug and secure.
– Give the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector a little flip-up action.
– With the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 38
– Take out those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board snugly to the aluminum frame. You’re doing great!
Step 39
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable, remember to treat the headphone jack with care—too much tugging might send it packing!
– While keeping the headphone jack assembly cable out of your way, gently pop out the SIM board from the iPad. You’re doing great!
