How to Replace iPad Headphone Jack Board – CDMA Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Heads up, repair warrior! Make sure you’re in a comfy spot with all your tools handy before diving into this. If you run into any bumps along the way, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help!
Ready to tackle that headphone jack board replacement? You’ve got this! Let’s dive into the steps together and get your device back to jamming out in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. Any leftover gunk on the bottom might just decide to hitch a ride on the iOpener. Let’s keep things tidy, shall we?
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on your iOpener during the repair. Overheating can lead to a bit of a mess, so let’s keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) to avoid any surprises.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffed up, it’s best to give it some space. Safety first!
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Keep using your iOpener while it cools off a bit before you reheat it. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes. You’ve got this!
– Give that iOpener a cozy thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave.
– As you dive into your repair adventure, keep the iOpener warm and toasty by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might be your best friend here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot center. You’re doing great!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your toolkit, don’t worry! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water for a little warm-up action.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to make your iOpener feel like it’s on a spa day—fully submerged, please!
– Crank up the heat and let that water boil like it’s in a race. Once it’s bubbling away, turn off the heat.
– Gently lower your iOpener into the hot water for a cozy 2-3 minutes. Just ensure it’s completely underwater, soaking up all that warmth.
– Using some trusty tongs, carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water. Safety first, folks!
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry. No one likes a soggy iOpener!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little extra warmth, just repeat the boiling process: heat the water, turn off the heat, and let your iOpener chill in there for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip and give that SIM tray a gentle nudge to pop it out. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and give it a nice farewell as you remove it from the iPad.
– If you’re swapping in a new SIM card, just pop out the old one from its tray and slide in the shiny new replacement!
Step 7
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care!
– Got a cracked display? No worries! Let’s keep things safe and sound by covering that glass with some tape. It’s a smart way to avoid any further mishaps while you work your magic.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the entire face of your iPad. We want to make sure it’s all covered, just like a cozy blanket!
– Now, just follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Remember, once that glass starts breaking, it might just want to keep cracking! If you find yourself needing to, feel free to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass. You’ve got this!
Step 8
Hey there! Just a heads-up: while you’re tackling this repair, you might be dealing with some sharp glass bits. We highly suggest rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those flying shards at bay. Better safe than sorry, right?
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug so it gets cozy with the surface.
– Give the bag a little chill time on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening up that front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and stay steady, gently wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. Remember, patience is key!
– Hey there! You’ll find a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that little weakness, shall we?
– Now, grab your trusty tool and align it with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of your plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip, just enough to help widen that crack a bit.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the space right next to your trusty tool. You’ve got this!
Step 12
– Gently extract the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches deep. Remember, take your time and enjoy the process! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 14
This adhesive is quite the stronghold, and you might need to channel your inner Hulk to get through it. Take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While having the pick this far in won’t cause any harm, it might leave some adhesive goo on the LCD. Keep it cool and remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– As the bottom edge warms up with the iOpener, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, making sure to release that adhesive as you go along.
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Step 15
You might want to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of your iPad as you peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how cool your iPad has gotten while you were busy working your magic.
– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down like it never wanted to leave!
– Give your iOpener a quick re-heat, then place it on the top edge of your iPad. Let’s get that adhesive nice and cozy!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the way the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to handle it with care, or you might accidentally cause some damage that can’t be fixed. So, let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread carefully! We’re diving into some delicate territory here.
– You’ll need to gently peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Take your time and be mindful not to harm the fragile bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Stick to the next steps and you’ll do great!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t push that pick too far into the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much excitement, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that pesky adhesive. You’re doing great!
Step 19
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out nearby. It’s a bit of a shy one and can get a little too cozy with the corner if you’re not careful with the adhesive. Just a friendly reminder to take it easy here!
Just nudge that pick out a smidge! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip still hanging out under the front glass. It’s like a little secret waiting to be revealed!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 20
– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (which is about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), go ahead and push that opening pick in all the way.
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Keep that iOpener cool! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time and give it a breather for at least two minutes before giving it another whirl.
– Keep on peeling back that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button, and then slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re past that little button. You’ve got this!
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Step 22
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad.
– Place the opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button and let it hang out for a bit.
Step 24
If your adhesive has decided to chill out a bit too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener is feeling a little too cool, give it a little reheat to get back in the game!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This section is packed with some seriously strong adhesive, so don’t be shy about using a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be careful not to slip and hurt yourself or your iPad.
– If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still clinging on like a loyal pet, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work!
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you’re sliding that pick, take a little pause when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, peeling back that adhesive like a pro! The sticky stuff is a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer, so keep your pick at a safe depth—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any accidental damage. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Be super careful! The digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently release the adhesive holding tight in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 28
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped open, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it in place.
Step 29
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be clinging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give the front glass a gentle twist away from the device. It’s like a little dance move, but for your gadget!
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD. It’ll look like new and be ready to shine!
Step 30
The bottom left screw is playing hide and seek behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the home button ribbon cable aside to reveal and remove that sneaky bottom left screw.
– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully take out those four 2 mm screws that are holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is delicate and could snap if you give it too much of a workout.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, give that LCD a little rotation along its left edge and let it rest on top of the front glass panel. Nice work!
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. It’s a simple move, but it sets the stage for the magic to happen!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– With a bit of finesse, use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable from its cozy socket on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen decides to take a nap after you connect the ZIF connector, don’t fret! Just give your iPad a little nudge by pressing and holding the power button and home button for at least ten seconds until you see that cheerful Apple logo pop up.
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Step 34
– Gently raise the LCD away from the front panel without laying a finger on the screen. You’re doing great!
Step 35
If you’ve got some electrical tape blocking the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel that off like a pro!
Step 36
– Lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Carefully wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy little spot in the rear case.
Step 39
– With the spudger in hand, gently lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 40
– Lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. Let’s keep that connection strong!
Step 41
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free the adhesive holding it down. Easy does it!
– Now, with a smooth motion, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 42
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use its flat end to carefully break the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 43
– With a gentle touch, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable out from its snug little spot in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
– Now, it’s time to take off the front panel from the iPad. Just give it a little nudge and watch it come off!
Step 44
– Gently peel back that piece of electrical tape that’s been hanging out over the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time for it to go!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and use its tip to flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors. These are the little guys holding the headphone jack cable snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 45
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger beneath the headphone jack assembly cable to break free the adhesive that’s holding it snug against the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 46
– Gently peel away that pesky tape that’s hiding the SIM board cable ZIF connector. It’s time for a little reveal!
– Give a little flip to the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. We’re almost there!
– With the finesse of a pro, use the tip of your spudger to carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 47
– Let’s get those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws out of the way so we can free the SIM board from the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 48
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, just remember to avoid yanking too hard on the headphone jack itself—nobody wants to see it go flying off!
– Gently tuck the headphone jack assembly cable aside and pop out the SIM board from your iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 49
– Gently peel back and take off the adhesive tape that’s hugging the headphone jack assembly.
Step 50
– Let’s get started by unscrewing that lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s keeping the camera cable snugly attached to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 51
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera out of its cozy spot in the headphone jack assembly. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Time to shine!’
– Now, keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right. This will help release the sticky adhesive holding the camera cable down. You’re doing great—let’s keep that momentum going!
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Step 52
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– Next, slide the tip of the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and carefully detach it from its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
– Now, give the spudger a little slide to the left to break the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable stuck to the headphone jack assembly. You’re almost there!
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Step 53
– Gently use the flat end of the spudger to lift the antenna connector cable out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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Step 54
– Lift up the little flap that’s holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector snugly in place on the headphone jack assembly board.
– Gently pull the volume button ribbon cable out from its ZIF connector and set it aside.
Step 55
– Time to tackle those pesky screws holding the headphone jack assembly in place! Let’s get them out of there!
Step 56
– While holding onto the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, gently pull the assembly straight out towards the bottom of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 57
– With a gentle grip on the headphone jack assembly using both hands, carefully pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any sneaky cables that might try to hitch a ride.
Step 58
– With the flat end of a spudger in hand, gently pop the rear-facing camera out of its cozy little home on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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