How to Replace iPad LCD – Step-by-Step GSM Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Hey there, repair champ! Just a heads-up: be sure to handle your device with care while you dive into this repair adventure. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair. Let’s get this sorted out together!
Ready to give your device a fresh new look? Let’s dive into replacing that LCD! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. Cleaning it up helps avoid any unwanted gunk hitching a ride on the iOpener!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on your iOpener during the repair. Getting it too hot might make it pop! Let’s keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, it’s best to leave it alone.
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Keep using it while it cools down a bit more before you reheat it. A well-heated iOpener will stay cozy for about 10 minutes!
– Give that iOpener a quick blast in the microwave for thirty seconds to warm it up.
– As you work through the repair, keep the iOpener cozy by popping it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool off.
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Step 3
The iOpener can get super toasty, so watch your fingers! If it feels a bit too hot to handle, grab an oven mitt to stay cool and safe.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener using some good old boiling water.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to make sure your iOpener can take a nice dip.
– Get that water boiling, then go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged and getting cozy!
– Using tongs, carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water.
– Give the iOpener a good dry-off with a towel. We want it nice and fresh!
– And voilà, your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes again. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with care—it’s not a frisbee!
– Got a cracked display? No worries! Keep that glass from shattering further and protect yourself by slapping some tape on it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. Safety first!
– Now, just stick to the guide and follow along as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass is broken, it might decide to keep cracking while you work, so don’t hesitate to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Just a heads-up! As you dive into this repair adventure, you might encounter some tricky broken glass. It’s a smart move to don some safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Better safe than sorry, right?
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it makes solid contact with the surface. Smooth it out for the best results!
– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you dive in and start prying open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle—wiggle the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed, and you’ll be on your way in no time!
– Spot the sneaky little gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad—it’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little flaw!
– Now, align your trusty tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there—enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Carefully take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, then slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for a depth of about 0.5 inches. You’re doing great!
Step 12
The adhesive is super sticky, so you might need to put some muscle into it. Take your time and be gentle!
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a tad. While getting the pick in this deep won’t cause any harm, it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– While you’re warming up that bottom edge with the iOpener, start gently peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Use the opening pick to slide down along the iPad’s edge, releasing the adhesive smoothly as you go.
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Step 13
You might need to scoot that warm iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. Whether you do this or not depends on how long the iPad has been taking it easy while you’ve been working your magic.
– If your opening pick gets a bit cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep that sticky stuff at bay.
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick out of the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things warm and cozy while we work!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Keep in mind the antenna’s orientation as you work—handle with care to avoid any accidental damage that might leave it in a less-than-stellar condition.
– Alright, folks! Time to tread lightly on the next few steps.
– You’ll need to carefully loosen the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super gentle so you don’t harm the sensitive bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow these steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide the pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is just a hop, skip, and a jump away from the corner. Be careful not to snag it while you’re at it, or you might find yourself in a bit of a pickle with the adhesive!
Just a friendly tip: don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Give it a gentle tug so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under there.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, letting it do its magic and free the adhesive from the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener sizzling for no more than a minute at a time, and remember to give it a little break of at least two minutes before you heat it up again.
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out just enough to glide around the home button, then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re past the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad – you’re doing great!
– Slide the opening pick in and leave it resting under the front glass close to the home button. You’re on the right track!
Step 22
If your adhesive has decided to take a chill pill, just swap in the iOpener along the top edge and keep on trucking. If your iOpener isn’t feeling warm and cozy anymore, give it a little heat-up session!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This area has some seriously strong adhesive, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be careful to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the sticky stuff, try ‘rolling’ the pick as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
If your adhesive is feeling a bit toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still clinging on like a stubborn friend, just give the iOpener a little extra heat and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling back that sticky adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Time to pause your pick sliding adventure when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom of the iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the left side of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer that runs along the entire left edge. Just be careful not to poke too deep (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to keep that digitizer safe and sound!
Step 25
Be cautious! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work carefully—let’s keep that cable intact!
– Grab that trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently peel away the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it in place.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be lurking around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any remaining adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a gentle twist away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to give the LCD a little TLC with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to blast away any dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside so you can get to the bottom left screw and give it the boot!
– Unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame like a pro!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently nudge the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, swing that LCD around its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or some tweezers to wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board.
– If your iPad decides to play hard to get and the LCD screen refuses to light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, give it a little nudge by holding down the power and home buttons together for at least ten seconds until the Apple logo makes its grand entrance.
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with the screen itself.
