How to Replace iPad Rear Facing Camera CDMA Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to take your time and be careful while working on your device. If you run into any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to reach out for help. You can always schedule a repair if you need a hand!
Get ready to swap out that rear-facing camera! Follow this guide to make your device as good as new. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any stubborn residue on the bottom might just stick to the iOpener. A little prep goes a long way!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. We don’t want it to get too hot and cause a scene—like bursting! So, let’s keep it under 100˚C (212˚F), alright?
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space. It’s not feeling its best!
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit more before you give it another warm-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes. You’ve got this!
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your repair tool!
– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!
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Step 3
The iOpener gets pretty toasty, so handle it with care! Oven mitts can be your best buddy here if you need them.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Heat that water up until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the steamy water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s all nice and submerged.
– Using tongs (or your favorite kitchen tool), take out the heated iOpener from its hot tub.
– Give the iOpener a good towel-dry, because nobody likes a soggy tool!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to help you out. If it needs a little reheat, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out that SIM tray like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy spot and take it away from the iPad.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of the tray and slide in the new one like a pro!
Step 7
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering further and avoid any accidental ouchies during your repair by applying some tape to it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until the entire face is nicely covered.
– Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as outlined. Just a heads up, once the glass starts to break, it might keep cracking as you work, so you may need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass.
Step 8
Just a heads up! While you’re getting your hands dirty with this repair, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky glass shards from crashing your party.
– Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and flat for optimal contact. We want it to feel cozy against the surface!
– Give the bag a little time to work its magic—let it chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening that front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle here and there as needed. You’ve got this!
– There’s a tiny little gap in the adhesive ring of your iPad, sitting pretty in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!
– Now, align your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, just enough to widen the crack a bit.
Step 11
– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that gap, right next to your plastic opening buddy. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad and slide the opening pick a bit deeper beneath the front glass, aiming for about half an inch. You’ve got this!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle!
If you spot the tip of your trusty opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While using the pick this deep is totally safe and won’t harm a thing, it might leave some sticky adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get to work on the right edge of your iPad and start peeling away that adhesive!
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, and watch that adhesive give way as you go. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
As you work on releasing the adhesive, keep an eye on that heated iOpener. You might need to slide it back over to the right edge of your iPad. Just a little reminder: how long your iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been busy will determine if this step is necessary. You’ve got this!
– If the opening pick decides to play hard to get and sticks in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff up.
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is nestled on the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad, held in place by screws and a cable. Given the antenna’s position, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage. So, let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread carefully! We’re about to tackle some delicate work.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super careful not to harm the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t slide that pick too far down into the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky and hangs out close to the corner, so be gentle—if the adhesive gets too wild, it could get severed. You’ve got this!
Just a friendly tip: don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Give it a gentle tug so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays snugly in place. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s holding on to the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Now that you’ve successfully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to reinsert that opening pick all the way in. You’ve got this!
– Give that pick a gentle slide to the right to break free the adhesive that’s been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 21
Keep the iOpener’s heat game strong, but don’t overdo it! Heat it for just a minute at a time and give it a cool two-minute break before you bring the heat again.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad, and gently work the opening pick around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, slide it back in, but remember to go about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep for a smooth ride.
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Step 22
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone!
– Pop the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 24
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat and get back to work!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This section has some pretty tough adhesive, so don’t be shy about applying a bit of force. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could hurt you or your iPad.
– If you find the opening pick getting a bit stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still feeling a bit clingy, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, take a breather and stop when you’re around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep the pick shallow (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental run-ins with the digitizer.
Step 27
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, go ahead and gently free the adhesive from the bottom left corner.
Step 28
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once you’ve pried it open a bit, go ahead and use your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might still be clinging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive that could be keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. Easy peasy!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to give that LCD a little TLC! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you reinstall the glass.
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside to free the bottom left screw. You’ve got this!
– Take a moment to grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and gently remove the four 2 mm screws holding the LCD snugly against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and steady!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front glass panel. Nice and easy!
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a secret door.
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or some tweezers to slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen is still playing hard to get after you’ve connected the ZIF connector, try giving your iPad a little nudge by holding down the power and home buttons together for at least ten seconds. Wait for that Apple logo to pop up like a surprise guest!
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Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 35
If it’s there, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector to get things moving!
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 39
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 40
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to get things rolling.
Step 41
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break the adhesive seal. You’re doing great!
– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board. Keep it steady!
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Step 42
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab a spudger’s flat end to carefully break the adhesive bond holding the cable to the back of that sleek aluminum case.
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Step 43
– With a gentle touch, wiggle that digitizer ribbon cable free from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel off your iPad like you’re unveiling a surprise. It’s time to see what’s inside!
Step 44
– Gently peel away the electrical tape that’s cozying up to the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time for it to go!
– Grab your trusty spudger and use the tip to flip up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re almost there!
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Step 45
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky embrace of the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy home on the logic board.
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Step 46
– Gently peel away the tape that’s holding the SIM board cable ZIF connector snugly in place.
– Flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector to give it some breathing room.
– With a spudger in hand, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 47
– Let’s get those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws out of the way so we can free the SIM board from its aluminum home. Grab your trusty screwdriver and let’s make it happen!
Step 48
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable, take it easy on that headphone jack! A little too much tugging could send it packing.
– Keep that headphone jack assembly cable out of the way like it’s in a dance-off, and gently pull out the SIM board from the iPad.
Step 49
– Gently peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding the headphone jack assembly in place and toss it aside like it’s yesterday’s news!
Step 50
– Unscrew the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable snugly to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 51
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera out of its cozy little spot on the headphone jack assembly.
– While you’re at it, keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right to free up the adhesive that’s keeping the camera cable stuck down.
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Step 52
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
– Slide the tip of the spudger beneath the microphone ribbon cable to free it from its ZIF connector.
– Now, give that spudger a little slide to the left to break the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable stuck to the headphone jack assembly.
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Step 53
– Gently use the flat end of your trusty spudger to lift the antenna connector cable out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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Step 54
– Gently lift the retaining flap that’s holding down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector to the headphone jack assembly board. It’s like giving it a little nudge!
– Carefully detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Just treat it like a delicate dance move!
Step 56
– While keeping a firm grip on the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, gently slide the assembly straight out towards the bottom of the iPad, just like you’re giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to come out!’
Step 57
– With both hands, gently grip the headphone jack assembly and give it a smooth tug to remove it from the iPad, being careful of any cables that might want to tag along for the ride.
Step 58
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop off the rear-facing camera from its cozy spot on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!
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Step 59
– Keep that rear-facing camera in place!
