How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Battery: DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Heads up! Before diving into the repair, make sure you’re in a comfy spot with good lighting and all your tools handy. If you hit a snag or need a hand, no worries! Just schedule a repair and we’ll get you sorted!
Step 1
Before you dive in, give your microwave a quick clean-up! Any leftover gunk on the bottom could end up making friends with the iOpener, and trust us, you don’t want that.
– Pop the iOpener right in the center of the microwave like it’s the star of the show.
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. If it gets too hot, it might just surprise you by bursting! So, let’s not go above 100˚C (212˚F), okay?
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and appears a bit swollen, steer clear of it.
Still feeling a bit too warm in the middle? No worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit more before you reheat. A well-heated iOpener should stay nice and toasty for up to 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spin in the microwave. It’s like a warm hug for your tools!
– As you work through the repair, keep the iOpener toasty by popping it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Your gadget will thank you!
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Step 3
Caution! The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if things get too hot to handle!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If you find yourself without a microwave, no worries! Just give this step a go and warm up your iOpener in some good old-fashioned boiling water.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat like a pro.
– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes—just make sure it’s fully submerged for the best results!
– Using some tongs (safety first!), fish out your warmed-up iOpener from the hot water.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry—nobody likes a soggy gadget!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more heat later, just repeat the water boiling magic for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers protected, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!
– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! To keep things safe and sound during your repair, grab some tape and cover that glass. It’s like a little protective hug for your device!
– Start laying down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over your iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. Think of it as giving your iPad a nice, cozy blanket!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Keep in mind, once that glass starts to break, it might want to keep cracking as you work. If it gets too wild, don’t hesitate to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out. You’ve got this!
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: when you’re dealing with shattered glass, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from flying your way while you work your magic.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s snug and cozy for a solid connection between the iPad and the iOpener.
– Give the bag a little chill time on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening up the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of your trusty opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just remember to take your time and stay cool—wiggle that plastic tool back and forth gently as needed, and you’ll be on your way in no time!
– Spotting a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad? That’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top, and it’s your golden opportunity! Let’s take advantage of that little weakness.
– Now, align your tool right by the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to create a little wiggle room!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool firmly tucked between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the little gap right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some serious elbow grease. Just take your time and be careful!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s perfectly safe to use the pick this way, you might end up with a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing the adhesive along the way.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad. Whether you need to do this depends on how long your iPad has been chilling while you were busy with your repairs.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff. You’ve got this!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then move it up to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep this party rolling!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is nestled snugly on the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Given its position, it’s super important to be gentle and take your time—rushing could lead to some serious hiccups for the Wi-Fi antenna. Let’s keep things running smoothly!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread carefully! These next steps are all about finesse.
– You’ll need to gently detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just take your time to ensure you don’t accidentally harm the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Stick to these steps like glue!
Step 16
Keep that pick away from the bottom right corner! Pushing too far could give your Wi-Fi antenna a bad day. Let’s keep it happy and connected!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that sticky adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
Be super careful as you slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel! The Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out right near the corner, and if you’re not gentle with the adhesive, it might just say goodbye!
Just give that pick a little wiggle and pull it out a smidge—leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly under the front glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna in place. Remember, you’re doing great!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve danced past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, just a hop away from the home button), go ahead and slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right. This will help release the adhesive that’s been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep it cool! Don’t heat the iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a break for at least two minutes before giving it another round of warmth.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, just give that iOpener a little reheat to warm things up where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad, gently maneuvering the opening pick around the home button. Once you’ve got the pick past the button, slide it in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to get that perfect opening!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff all along the bottom edge of the iPad—you’re doing great!
– Pop that opening pick right under the front glass by the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, simply swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep the momentum going. If your iOpener has lost its heat, just give it another warm-up!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– Keep in mind that the adhesive here is quite sticky, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful to avoid any slips that could cause trouble for you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still hanging on a bit too tightly, just give that iOpener another warm-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep on peeling that adhesive away from the top edge of your iPad, and glide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out around 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, hit the brakes at about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive as you go. No worries, the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running down the whole left side. Just remember to keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about half an inch (10 mm)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
The digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom. So, take it easy and go slow here—let’s avoid any accidental snips to that cable, shall we?
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled beneath the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. Time to get that sticky stuff sorted!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s lifted, give it a friendly pinch with your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive keeping that front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– With your iPad in hand, gently grip the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a little twist away from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you set the glass back in place. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
– Start by taking out those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and carefully lay it down on the front panel like a pro.
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Step 30
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector snug and secure.
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If needed, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the digitizer ribbon cable snugly attached to the logic board. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
Step 34
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently work the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen up the adhesive. Nice and easy!
– Now, with a steady hand, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy little sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 35
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– With a gentle touch, wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift off the front panel from the iPad, like you’re unveiling a surprise!
Step 37
– Gently peel back the electrical tape that’s keeping your headphone jack assembly cable connector snug as a bug. It’s time for it to come off!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and with a little finesse, flip up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive that’s been holding it snugly against the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 39
If you see any electrical tape hanging out, go ahead and peel it off the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and dock connector cable. It’s like giving your device a little spa day!
Step 40
Remember to gently pry underneath the connector, not the socket itself! Giving the socket a nudge could lead to some serious damage, and we definitely want to avoid that!
– Unplug the connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board.
Step 41
– Unscrew the four screws that are keeping the logic board snug against the rear aluminum panel. Let’s get that board free!
Step 42
– Carefully take out the logic board from the back of the iPad. Just remember to be gentle and steady – you’ve got this!
Step 43
Handle the battery with care as you take it out of the iPad. Those little powerhouses hold some nasty chemicals that are not great for your health if they happen to escape into your world!
Step 44
The adhesive is super strong! You’ll need some serious muscle to loosen it up. Take your time and be gentle, making sure your
