How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Battery – Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to be cautious while diving into your repair adventure. Make sure you have all your tools ready and your workspace is clear. If things get a bit tricky or you feel a bit overwhelmed, don’t hesitate to reach out for assistance. You can always schedule a repair to get some expert help!
Ready to give your device a fresh start? Follow this guide to swap out that old battery for a shiny new one. If you hit any snags along the way, don’t sweat it—just schedule a repair and we’ll lend a hand!
Step 1
We suggest giving your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any sticky residue down there might just hitch a ride on the iOpener.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, and let it warm up for a bit!
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair journey—nobody wants a surprise burst! Remember, it’s best to keep the heat below 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s got a little extra fluff, give it some space—don’t touch it!
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Just let it cool off a bit more before giving it another go. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!
– As you dive into the repair adventure, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, give it another thirty seconds in the microwave to heat it back up!
Tools Used
Step 3
Caution: The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might be your best buddy here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your kitchen arsenal, no worries! Just pop your iOpener in some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give that iOpener a nice swim.
– Get that water boiling and then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.
– Gently lower your iOpener into the warm water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a full dip!
– Using tongs, carefully pull the hot iOpener out of the water. Safety first!
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry—let’s keep it looking sharp.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to roll. If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with the care it deserves!
– If your screen is sporting a crack, let’s keep it from shattering further and avoid any accidental ouchies while you tackle this repair. Grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Layer on some clear packing tape over your iPad’s screen, making sure to overlap the strips until the entire front is safely wrapped up.
– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide as laid out. Just a heads up: once the glass starts cracking, it may keep on doing its thing while you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out those shattered pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty, make sure to rock some safety glasses! They’re your best friends against those pesky glass shards that might go flying. Stay safe and stylish!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it makes good contact with the surface. Give it a little nudge to ensure it’s snug.
– Now, let that cozy bag rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds. This will help you get the front panel open without a hitch!
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little elbow grease. Just take your time and stay chill, gently wiggling the plastic tool back and forth as you go. You’ve got this!
– Spotting a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner? That’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Looks like we’ve found our entry point!
– Now, let’s get our tool ready! Line it up with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that little gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack will do the trick!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside the tool. You’re doing great—keep it steady!
Step 10
– Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass until it reaches about half an inch deep. You’re doing great!
Step 12
This adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero. Take it easy and be gentle with it!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s perfectly fine to have the pick inserted this far, it might leave some sticky adhesive marks on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening the adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.
– Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive as you go. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, it might be a good idea to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. Just keep in mind that this will depend on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been working your magic.
– If your trusty opening pick gets a bit too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep things moving and loosen that sticky situation.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick underneath the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting too cozy and re-sticking.
– Give your iOpener a little love with some heat, then place it on the top edge of the iPad. Let’s get this party started!
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the placement of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to take your time and handle it gently—otherwise, you might risk causing some serious damage to it. So, let’s be careful and keep that antenna safe!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! The next few steps are all about finesse.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, but do take care not to harm the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s follow these steps with a steady hand!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t slide that pick too far down into the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give your Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner. If you let the adhesive go wild, it might just bite the dust! So, stay focused and take it easy.
Gently slide the pick out from beneath the front glass—just enough so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip remains tucked away under there. A little finesse goes a long way!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, setting free the adhesive that’s holding onto the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge or snugly next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, slide that pick to the right and let it work its magic to release the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’ve got this!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating time to just a minute at a stretch, and remember to give it a cool-down of at least two minutes before heating it up again. You’re doing great!
– Keep on peeling that adhesive away from the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to sneak around the home button, then slide it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) past the home button. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 20
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff all along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.
– Let the opening pick chill under the front glass near the home button, holding it open just right.
Step 22
If your adhesive has taken a little too long to warm up, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener isn’t feeling hot enough, give it a quick reheat and you’re back in action!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This part has some seriously strong adhesive, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be careful to avoid slipping and harming yourself or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little roll, just like we showed you in step 9.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still a bit clingy, no worries! Just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get your hands busy.
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and glide that opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out around 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re about 2.25″ (60 mm) away from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it release the adhesive as you go along. The adhesive is pretty slim here, thanks to the digitizer that runs the whole length of the left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep the pick depth to a maximum of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 25
Be super gentle with the digitizer cable! It’s hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and be careful not to accidentally cut it. You’ve got this!
– With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently pry and let loose the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s up, go ahead and hold it with your fingers. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might be lingering around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky bits that are still keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the iPad like you’re opening a surprise gift.
– When it’s time to put things back together, give that LCD a little love! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any dust or fingerprints before you reattach the glass.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the home button ribbon cable to the side so you can easily access and remove that sneaky bottom left screw.
– Let’s get started by carefully removing those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is as delicate as it gets and might just snap if you bend it too much. Keep it safe and sound!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector snug as a bug. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 31
– Lift up the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.
– Using your fingers or some trusty tweezers, carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 32
– Gently raise the LCD away from the front panel without putting your hands on the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If there’s a piece of electrical tape hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel it off with care!
Step 34
– Lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.
Step 35
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
– Carefully guide the home button ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the rear case.
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
– Gently lift up the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Let’s get this show on the road!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the adhesive that’s holding down the digitizer ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 41
– With a gentle touch, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully detach the front panel from the iPad.
Step 42
– Grab those tweezers and gently peel back the electrical tape that’s keeping the headphone jack assembly cable connector under wraps. It’s time to let it breathe!
– Now, take your trusty spudger and with a delicate touch, flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable tight to the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 43
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the headphone jack assembly cable to loosen that pesky adhesive holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
– Now, give a firm yet gentle pull to the headphone jack assembly cable and watch it pop right out of its cozy home on the logic board!
Tools Used
Step 44
Be sure to gently pry under the connector, not the socket itself. Prying on the socket can lead to some serious damage, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy homes on the logic board:
Step 45
– Unscrew those four little buddies that are holding the logic board tight against the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!
Step 46
– With a gentle grip on the logic board, hold it from the side that’s away from the Lightning connector and carefully ease it out from the iPad.
Step 47
Handle that battery with care as you take it out of the iPad! We wouldn’t want any accidental pokes or damage. Remember, batteries hold some nasty chemicals that aren’t great for you if they get into the wrong place—like your mouth or lungs. Stay safe and keep that energy positive!
Step 48
The adhesive really means business! To loosen it, you’ll need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle, so that
