How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Rear Facing Camera
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Hey there, repair champ! Just a quick heads-up: handle those tiny screws and delicate parts with care! If you ever feel stuck or need a hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!
Follow this guide to swap out that pesky broken rear-facing camera and get back to snapping those great shots! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
We suggest giving your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any leftover crumbs or gooey bits might just hitch a ride on your iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it soak up that heat!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t let the iOpener get too toasty during your repair session. Overheating can cause it to pop, and we definitely don’t want that! Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, steer clear of it. Safety first!
Still feeling the heat? If the middle of the iOpener is too warm to handle, just hang tight and let it cool off a bit before giving it another go. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes!
– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work your magic on the repair, remember to pop the iOpener back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to lose its heat.
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Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might come in handy here!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grip one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot middle. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your kitchen arsenal, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water for a warm-up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first, folks!
– Gently lower the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and getting cozy.
– Using tongs (because we like to keep our fingers safe), carefully lift the iOpener out of the hot water.
– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel—no one likes a soggy opener!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to go! If it needs a little more heat later on, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener chill in there for 2-3 minutes again.
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Step 5
Put on those snazzy safety glasses to keep your peepers protected, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is looking a bit worse for wear, let’s keep those shards contained and ensure you stay safe during your repair mission. Grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is sealed up tight. It’s like giving your device a protective blanket!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind, once the glass starts to crack, it might just want to keep on cracking. You might need to get a little crafty with a metal prying tool to scoop out the broken pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly heads-up: you might be dealing with some broken glass during this process, so it’s a smart idea to sport some safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Stay safe and stylish!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for solid contact. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Give the bag a cozy 90 seconds to hang out on the iPad before diving in to open the front panel. Patience is key, my friend!
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and stay steady, gently wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Notice that little gap in the adhesive ring at the top right corner of your iPad? It’s about 2.0 inches (around 5 cm) down from the top, and it’s just waiting for you to take advantage of it.
– Now, let’s get to work! Line up your tool with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in a bit—enough to create a little more room for us to work our magic.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to where the tool is resting. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch deep. You’re doing great!
Step 12
That adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero! Take it slow and steady, and you’ll conquer this challenge.
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently tug it out just a tad. Using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might leave a little adhesive residue on your LCD. No biggie, just part of the adventure!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, letting the adhesive release as you glide along. Easy peasy!
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of your iPad as you let go of the adhesive. This will depend on how long your iPad has been chilling while you’ve been working on it.
– If your opening pick decides to play hide and seek with the adhesive, give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep going, and you’ll be releasing that sticky stuff in no time!
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Step 14
– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down, making your life a whole lot easier.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep that warmth flowing!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Due to the unique positioning of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to handle it with care; otherwise, you might accidentally create some permanent damage to the antenna. So, let’s take it easy and be gentle!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to channel your inner expert, but remember to tread lightly! We’re about to tackle the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just a heads-up: we want to keep those delicate connections safe and sound, especially where the antenna meets the bottom of your iPad. So, let’s follow the upcoming steps with care and confidence!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick tip: don’t slide that pick too far down to the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give your Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break free that pesky adhesive holding it down.
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking nearby. If you’re not careful, it might just get snipped! So take it easy and make sure the adhesive is handled with care.
Don’t pull the pick all the way out from under the front glass; just nudge it a little so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays snugly tucked away under there. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free the adhesive that’s holding onto the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches from the right edge, or just a hop away from the home button), it’s time to reinsert that opening pick all the way in. You’ve got this!
– Now, slide that pick to the right and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass gives way. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heat game strong, but not too hot! Limit it to one minute at a time, and give it a cool-down period of at least two minutes before giving it another whirl.
If the adhesive has gotten a little too chill along the bottom edge, just give the iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you’re working your magic.
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Slide that trusty opening pick around the home button, but make sure to pull it out just enough to get around it. Once you’ve navigated past the home button, reinsert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad.
– Leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass near the home button.
Step 22
If your adhesive has decided to take a little too much time chilling, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep at it! If your iOpener is feeling a bit under the weather, give it a little reheating to get back in the game.
– Gently slide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– Heads up! The adhesive in this area is pretty robust, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be cautious—no one wants to slip and hurt themselves or their iPad!
– If you find the pick getting a bit too cozy with the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and toasty, go ahead and lift that iOpener off the iPad for some smooth sailing. But if it’s still a bit clingy, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the job!
– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, just stop when you’re around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, peeling back that adhesive as you go. No worries, it’s pretty thin here because of the digitizer running the whole length of the side. Just remember to keep your pick shallow—aim for a maximum depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be cautious as the digitizer cable is located just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and proceed with care to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the opening pick still tucked beneath the bottom edge of your iPad, gently ease the adhesive away from the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
Sometimes, the adhesive around the iPad’s edges likes to play hard to get. If you find that it’s sticking down again, just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge where the front glass is still holding on tight. Give it a little wiggle to ‘cut’ through that stubborn adhesive. You’re doing great! And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to keep it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive trying to keep the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a gentle twist to lift it away from the device.
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you seal it up with the glass.
Step 28
– Let’s tackle this! Start by taking out those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away under the LCD. To reach them, just give the LCD a little flip and set it aside for a moment. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and smoothly flip it out of the rear case, just like flipping the page of your favorite book.
– Carefully place the LCD face down on the front panel, treating it like the delicate gem it is.
Step 30
– Gently peel back the rubber cover from the metal camera retainer and take it off the iPad 2. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Make sure that the little thermal pad is snugly attached to the metal retaining clip, just like you see in the third picture, when you’re swapping out that rear-facing camera. You’ve got this!
– Time to get your hands dirty! First, let’s take out those two screws—grab your trusty screwdriver and get to work!
– Now, gently lift that metal retainer clip straight up from its cozy spot in the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the rear camera connector from its cozy spot on the control board.
– Now, go ahead and remove the rear-facing camera with care.
