How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Front Facing Camera Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 40 Steps
Ready to give your device a little upgrade? This guide will walk you through the fun process of swapping out that front-facing camera. Let’s get started and bring your selfies back to life!
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a quick clean before you dive in, as any lingering mess at the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating can lead to some unexpected fireworks, and we definitely don’t want that. So, remember: no heating over 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it.
Still feeling the heat in the middle? No worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit more before giving it another round of warmth. A well-heated iOpener can stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep the iOpener cozy by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Watch out for that iOpener—it’s hotter than a summer sidewalk! Handle it with care, and if it feels a bit too toasty, grab an oven mitt to keep your cool.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the two flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the warm center.
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Step 4
If you’re lacking a microwave, no worries! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener in some boiling water.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Heat that water up until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. We want it hot, but not dangerous!
– Carefully place the iOpener into the steaming water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s having a nice swim under the surface.
– Using some trusty tongs, fish out the warm iOpener from its hot tub.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry. We want it to feel fresh and ready to go!
– And just like that, your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth later on, just repeat the hot water soak for another 2-3 minutes after boiling.
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Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep your peepers protected, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more fragile than it looks!
– Got a cracked display? No worries! To keep things safe and sound during your repair, grab some tape and cover that glass up to prevent any further breakage.
– Start laying down overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the entire face of your iPad until it’s snugly covered.
– Now, just follow the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: once that glass breaks, it might decide to crack a little more while you’re working. You might find it helpful to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass bits.
Step 6
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that while you’re getting your hands dirty with this repair, it’s a smart idea to rock some safety glasses to shield your peepers from any unexpected glass surprises. Stay safe and keep those eyes happy!
– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug so it gets cozy with the iPad’s surface.
– Give the bag a little chill time on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic tool a little wiggle back and forth as needed.
– Check it out! There’s a tiny little gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little weakness.
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just poke in the very tip to widen that crack a bit!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly in place between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch in. Keep it cool and steady!
Step 12
This adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero! Take your time and be gentle.
If you catch a glimpse of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While having the pick in this position won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie! Just keep it in mind as you go. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start peeling away that stubborn adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go. You’re doing great!
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Step 13
As you gently peel away the adhesive, you might find it handy to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little move can really help, especially if your iPad has had a bit of a cool-off while you were busy working on it.
– If the opening pick gets a bit cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep releasing that sticky stuff. You’re doing great!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, pop a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to prevent that pesky adhesive from making a comeback.
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then slide it up to the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Since the Wi-Fi antenna has a unique orientation, it’s super important to handle it with care to avoid any accidental damage that could be a real bummer.
– Take a deep breath and get ready for some careful maneuvering ahead!
– It’s time to gently detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super mindful of those delicate connections keeping the antenna snug at the bottom of the iPad. Stick to the following steps, and you’ll do great!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, setting free that pesky adhesive!
Step 17
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Take your time and gently glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out right near the corner, and if the adhesive gets too wild, it could end up severed. So, be careful and steady!
Just a friendly tip: don’t yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass. Instead, gently pull it out a smidge so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under the glass. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button—go ahead and slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep it cool! Don’t heat that iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before you warm it up again.
If the adhesive has cooled down too much at the bottom edge, give the iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
– Keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button, and then slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed that little button. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep going and peel back that adhesive along the entire bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Once you’re in, pop that opening pick under the front glass near the home button and leave it there for a little support.
Step 22
If your adhesive is feeling a bit too cool, just swap the iOpener to the top edge and keep at it! If the iOpener is also not warm enough, give it a little reheating love.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty tough, so you might need to put in some effort. Take your time and work with care to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit clingy, give the iOpener another warm-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hiding about 2″ (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, just chill and stop when you reach around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, peeling away the adhesive like a pro! The adhesive is nice and thin on this side thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Just remember to keep the pick shallow – no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep – to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the iPad’s bottom edge, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped up, use your fingers to hold it steady like a pro!
It looks like some of that adhesive around the iPad’s edge might have decided to stick around a bit longer than we’d like. No worries! Just slide a pick underneath the edge where the front glass is still clinging on and give that adhesive a gentle ‘cut’ to free things up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s still keeping the front panel in place. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give that front glass a little twist away from the device. You’ve got this!
– As you piece everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before putting that glass back on. Keep it clean and shiny!
Step 28
– Take off those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of your iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and set it down softly on top of the front panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector snug as a bug. You’re doing great!
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a little finesse.
– With a careful touch, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle that LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel, making sure to keep your fingers off the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If needed, gently lift the tape that’s keeping the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board.
– Lift up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
Step 34
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to release that stubborn adhesive.
– With a steady hand, carefully wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy sockets on the logic board.
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Step 35
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case.
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Step 36
– With a gentle tug, slide the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad, and voilà!
Step 37
– Carefully peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 38
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera from its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly. It’s like a little adventure for your camera!
– Keep that spudger handy and slide it to the right to release the adhesive that’s been holding down the camera ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
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Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the camera ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the plastic antenna housing. You’ve got this!
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Step 40
– Go ahead and pop that camera out of the iPad.
