How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Logic Board: DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 42 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to handle your device with care. We want you to succeed in this repair journey, so if you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to reach out for help. You can always schedule a repair if you need a hand!
Ready to dive into a little tech adventure? Follow this guide to swap out that logic board like a pro! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in, as any leftover gunk might cling to the iOpener. Let’s keep things neat and tidy!
– Set the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, so it gets nice and warm.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair adventure! We want to avoid any overheating drama, as that could lead to a surprise burst. Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth experience.
If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, steer clear! Safety first.
If the middle of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, no worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener will stay cozy for up to 10 minutes!
– Give your iOpener a nice warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Watch out for the iOpener—it gets pretty toasty! Handle it with care, and don’t hesitate to grab an oven mitt if you need a little extra protection.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends so you don’t touch the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your kitchen arsenal, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Heat that water up until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully lower your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully immersed so it can soak up all that heat.
– Using tongs, fish out your toasty iOpener from the water. It’s going to be hot, so watch those fingers!
– Give your iOpener a good dry with a towel. We want it nice and ready for action!
– And there you have it! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it cools down and needs a little extra warmth, just repeat the boiling process and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – we don’t want any accidental smudges!
– If your display glass has seen better days and is cracked, it’s a good idea to tape it up. This will help keep the shards from flying and protect you during the repair.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until you’ve got the whole face covered. It’s like giving your device a little hug!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass starts to break, it might keep cracking while you’re working on it. Don’t worry, though; you might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty with this repair, it’s a great idea to wear safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky glass shards from becoming an unexpected surprise!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s snug and making good contact with the surface. We want it to feel right!
– Give the bag a little time to work its magic on the iPad—about 90 seconds should do the trick—before diving in to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time, and give it a gentle wiggle back and forth when needed. You’ve got this!
– Look closely, and you’ll spot a tiny little gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this sneaky spot!
– Get your tool ready and align it with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip—just enough to widen that crack a bit.
Step 9
– While keeping the plastic opening tool snugly in the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel, carefully slide a plastic opening pick into that same space right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about a half-inch deep. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out just a smidge. While using the pick at this depth won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a little heads-up!
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s tackle that stubborn adhesive on the right edge of the iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that adhesive like a pro!
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Step 13
You might find it handy to slide that warmed-up iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been busy working on it.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff. You’re doing great!
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick underneath the right edge of the front glass to prevent the adhesive from sticking back down. Smart thinking!
– Give your iOpener another warm hug, then shift it up to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things nice and cozy!
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Step 15
Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Due to its special placement, it’s super important to handle this part with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to the antenna. Take it slow and steady!
– Alright, folks, time to proceed with a sprinkle of caution! We’re diving into the next few steps, and it’s crucial to keep your wits about you.
– You’ll need to carefully detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember to be gentle and avoid any mishaps with the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it step by step, and you’ve got this!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way like magic!
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky close to the corner. If you’re not careful with the adhesive, it might just decide to take a vacation!
Just give that pick a little tug—no need to yank it all the way out! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly under the front glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to break free the adhesive hiding over the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, or snugly next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way!
– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to free the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy with the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating sessions to a minute max, and remember to give it a breather for at least two minutes before firing it up again!
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the bottom of your iPad! Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to maneuver around the home button. Once you’ve got it past the home button, slide it back in to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad—you’re doing great!
– Now, slide that opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, simply swap in another iOpener along the top edge and keep on going. If your iOpener is feeling chilly, just give it a little reheat and you’re back in business!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This section’s adhesive is pretty stubborn, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If you find the opening pick getting caught in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still clinging on like an overzealous hug, just give the iOpener another heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you work your magic.
– Keep working that adhesive loose along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner like you’re giving it a little hug.
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Step 24
Alright, listen up! The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, just ease up when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, and watch that adhesive let go! It’s a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer running along that edge. Just remember, keep the pick no deeper than about half an inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful here! The digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and watch out—let’s not accidentally snip this cable!
– With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, go ahead and peel away the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that could be keeping the front panel in place. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– As you put everything back together, remember to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints on the LCD before you reinstall the glass. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
– Start by unscrewing those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, give that LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front panel. Nice and easy!
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Step 30
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift away the tape that’s holding down the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Go ahead and lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a little finesse, use your fingers or some tweezers to gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out from its cozy socket on the logic board.
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel, being careful not to touch the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If needed, gently lift the tape that holds the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. No stress, just take your time!
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free that pesky adhesive.
– With a steady hand, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board.
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Step 35
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’re doing great!
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Step 36
– Give that digitizer ribbon cable a gentle tug with your fingers and pull it out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Now, let’s get that front panel off the iPad and set it aside for a moment.
Step 37
If you see any pesky bits of electrical tape hanging out over the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or dock connector cable, go ahead and peel those off!
Step 38
– Gently peel back that piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s like unwrapping a present, but for your tech!
– Grab your trusty spudger and, with a little finesse, flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re almost there!
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Step 39
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky stuff holding it tight to the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 40
Remember to gently pry beneath the connector rather than the socket itself. Going for the socket might lead to some serious damage—let’s keep things in one piece!
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy homes on the logic board:
Step 41
– Unscrew the four screws that are holding the logic board snug against the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!
Step 42
– Carefully pop the logic board out of the iPad’s rear case. You’ve got this!
