How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Microphone – DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to be extra careful while working on your device. A little caution goes a long way in avoiding any mishaps. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to reach out – you can always schedule a repair!
Ready to bring back the sound? Dive into this guide and swap out that microphone like a pro. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
We suggest giving your microwave a little love before you dive in, as any stubborn residue lurking at the bottom might hitch a ride on the iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let the magic happen!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We don’t want it to get too hot and go boom. Aim for a cozy temperature—no more than 100˚C (212˚F) please!
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space. Safety first!
If it’s still too toasty to handle in the middle, hang tight! Let it chill for a bit longer before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener can keep you warm for about 10 minutes!
– Give your iOpener a warm-up session in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your repair tools!
– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on your iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the good vibes going.
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Step 3
Caution! The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might come in handy to keep your fingers safe!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the toasty center.
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it warmed up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener. We want it to take a nice, warm bath!
– Heat that water up until it’s bubbling away. Once it’s boiling, go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s cozy and fully submerged.
– Using tongs, gently lift the warm iOpener out of the hot water. Safety first!
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry. We want it to be nice and fresh.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to help you out. If you ever need to reheat it, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with care – it deserves some love too!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep those pesky shards contained and avoid any ouchies while you work. Grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Layer on some clear packing tape over the iPad’s display, making sure to overlap the strips until the entire face is safely shielded.
– Now, dive into the rest of the guide as best as you can! Just a heads up, once the glass is cracked, it might want to keep cracking as you go. You may need to get a little creative with a metal prying tool to scoop out those pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty with that shattered glass, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from flying your way!
– Position the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it makes good contact with the surface. Smooth it out for optimal warmth!
– Give the bag a cozy 90 seconds on the iPad before diving in to open up the front panel. Patience is key here!
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Step 7
Getting that stubborn wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic tool a little wiggle back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Look for a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring, right in the upper right corner—it’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. We’re going to take advantage of this little flaw, so let’s get started!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and line it up with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of the tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in a little to widen the crack—no need to go overboard!
Step 9
– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that gap, right next to where your tool is hanging out.
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You’re doing great!
Step 12
This adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero to break it free. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While having the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD, so just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down along the iPad’s edge, freeing the adhesive with each smooth move.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might find it handy to slide the warmed iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. Whether you need to do this will depend on how long the iPad has been cooling while you were busy tinkering with it.
– If your trusty opening pick finds itself stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive at bay.
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Step 14
– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide in a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help prevent the adhesive from getting clingy again!
– Give your iOpener a little re-heat, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things warm and cozy!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given its unique position, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you could end up causing some serious damage to the antenna. So, take it slow and steady!
– Alright, let’s take it slow for the next few steps—safety first, folks! You’ve got to carefully release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just a heads up, we want to avoid any mishaps with the delicate connections that link the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s tackle these steps with care!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a heads up—don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. It might just mess with your Wi-Fi antenna, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to release that stubborn adhesive!
Step 17
Take your time as you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky and hangs out close to the corner, so be careful not to accidentally snip it while working with the adhesive!
Just a little tip: don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass. Pull it out just enough to leave about ~1/8″ (3 mm) still tucked away under there. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive stuck to the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna, which is about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, or just beside the home button, pop that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’ve got this!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating time to just a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you heat it up again. We want it to be warm, not too toasty!
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give the iOpener another warm-up session to heat things up where you’re working your magic.
– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Wiggle that opening pick around the home button, and when you’re past it, pop it back in to about a 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Pop that opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has taken a little too long to warm up, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep at it! If your iOpener feels like it’s gone a bit chilly, give it another heat up.
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty thick, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time, and be careful not to slip and cause any damage to yourself or your iPad.
– If the opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling warm enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit too sticky, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you work your magic.
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!
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Step 24
Hey there! The digitizer cable is hiding about 2″ (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, make sure to stop when you hit around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. Happy repairing!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left side of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way. It’s a little thinner here because of the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Just keep the pick at a safe depth—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be careful, the bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) away from the iPad’s edge. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With your trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently coax the adhesive free at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s lifted, use your fingers to hold it steady. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky bits that are keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give that front glass a gentle twist to pop it away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air. Give that LCD a little TLC by cleaning off any dust or fingerprints before you seal it up again.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside to reveal and remove the sneaky bottom left screw.
– Let’s get started by taking out those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD tight to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is as delicate as it gets and can snap if you give it too much bend. Keep it safe and sound!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, swing that LCD over to the left edge and carefully lay it down on the front glass panel. Nice and easy!
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Step 30
– With the spudger in hand, gently lift up the tape that’s holding down the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector—no need to rush, take your time!
– With a light touch, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without laying a finger on the screen. You’re doing great!
Step 33
If you see any electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel that off like a pro!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Let’s get that little guy ready for action!
Step 35
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable right out of its snug little socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 39
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free the adhesive that’s holding it down.
– Once you’ve loosened it up, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board.
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully detach the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– Gently coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers. You’re doing great!
– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad. You’re on your way to a successful repair!
Step 43
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax the front-facing camera out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
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Step 45
– Gently lift and detach the front-facing camera from the iPad.
Step 46
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the adhesive tape that’s snugly holding down the microphone ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
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Step 48
– Gently slide the spudger’s tip under the microphone ribbon cable and nudge it out of its cozy spot in the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
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Step 49
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t go yanking the microphone cable assembly all the way out. It’s still glued down to the top edge of the rear case, and we wouldn’t want any sticky situations!
– Gently use the flat edge of your trusty spudger to lift the microphone ribbon cable away from the adhesive that’s holding it to the rear case. You’re doing great!
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Step 50
Time to get a little hands-on! Gently pry the microphone assembly using that small opening (marked in red) at the top right corner as your trusty leverage point. You’ve got this!
Step 51
– Gently slide the tip of a spudger into the little gap near the top right corner of the microphone assembly.
– With a bit of finesse, pry the spudger upward against the rear case to release the microphone assembly from the sticky adhesive holding it in place.
– Carefully lift and detach the microphone assembly from the iPad, and voilà!
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