How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Speaker Tutorial

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!

– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your repair tool!

– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by popping it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Let’s keep the heat going!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the warm center.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.

– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it’s bubbling away, go ahead and turn off the heat.

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged so it can get nice and toasty.

– Using some tongs (safety first!), pull out the heated iOpener from the water.

– Give your iOpener a good towel dry, because nobody likes a soggy tool.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to rock! If it needs a little extra warmth later, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.

– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! To keep things from getting any worse and to avoid any accidental ouches during your repair, grab some tape and cover that glass up.

– Start layering clear packing tape over the entire face of your iPad, making sure to overlap the strips. This will help keep everything contained.

– As you dive into the rest of the guide, keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might just want to keep cracking. Don’t be surprised if you need a metal prying tool to help scoop out those pesky shards.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, making sure to smooth it out for a snug fit. We want that cozy contact between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener!

– Give the bag a little time to work its magic on the iPad—about 90 seconds should do the trick—before you dive in to open up the front panel.

– You’ll notice a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little opening!

– Position your tool right by the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to create a little wiggle room.

– Just make sure you tuck that tool right where it needs to go—snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right next to your plastic opening tool. You’re doing great!

– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and gently slide the opening pick further beneath the front glass, aiming for about half an inch deep. You’ve got this!

– As you gently work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give that iOpener another round of heat, and pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening that adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go along.

– If your trusty opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in that sticky adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep at it, and you’ll break free that adhesive in no time!

– Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down. Smart move!

– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things nice and toasty!

– Alright, folks! Let’s tread carefully for the next few steps. We’re diving into some delicate territory here.

– It’s time to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, let’s take it step by step and stay focused!

– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive like a pro!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way over the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!

– After you’ve gracefully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that trusty opening pick back in all the way.

– Now, give that pick a little nudge to the right, and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass gives way!

– Keep on gently peeling away the adhesive along the bottom of your iPad. As you work, slide the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve passed that button, pop the pick back in to about a 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!

– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone!

– Just a heads up, leave the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button for now.

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that area.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This part has some super sticky adhesive, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be careful—no one wants to accidentally harm themselves or their beloved iPad!

– If your opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9.

– Keep peeling back that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide that trusty opening pick down the left edge of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way like a champion! The adhesive here is pretty thin, thanks to the digitizer hanging out along the whole left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep that pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

– With the trusty opening pick still nestled beneath the iPad’s bottom edge, gently coax the adhesive away from the bottom left corner. You’re almost there!

– Grab an opening pick and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s up, hold it steady with your fingers like a pro!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When you’re putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you seal it up with the glass. A clean screen is a happy screen!

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. It’s like a little dance—be gentle but firm!

– Now, give that LCD a smooth rotation along its left edge and let it rest comfortably on top of the front panel. You got this!

– With the spudger in hand, gently lift up the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– With a little finesse, use your fingers or some tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break that adhesive seal. You’re doing great!

– Now, with a steady hand, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. Nice and easy does it!

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the cable stuck to the back of the aluminum case.

– With a gentle tug from your fingers, ease the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully detach the front panel from the iPad, and let the adventure continue!

– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board:

– Gently peel back that piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time for a little reveal!

– With the tip of your trusty spudger, lift up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re almost there!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky grip of the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Let’s get started by taking out those four screws that are holding the logic board snugly to the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!

– Gently pop the logic board out from the back of your iPad. You’ve got this!

– The battery in the third generation iPad is really stuck to the aluminum frame with a generous amount of super strong adhesive. Don’t worry, though—you’re up for the challenge!