How to Replace iPhone 16 Pro Max Logic Board – DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Ready to swap out your iPhone 16 Pro Max logic board? Let’s do this! The board has connectors on both the top and bottom, so you’ll probably need to pop the screen off to get the job done. Make sure you’ve got replacement back glass adhesive on hand. Once you’re finished, use Repair Assistant to calibrate your genuine Apple parts. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Let your iPhone’s battery dip below 25%. Keeping it too charged can be a safety hazard!
– First things first, let’s disconnect those pesky cables from your iPhone.
– Now, press and hold the power button along with either the volume button, then swipe to shut down your iPhone. Easy peasy!
Step 2
Ensure there’s a nice, smooth spot near the bottom edge that’s just the right size for a suction cup to grab onto.
– Got a cracked screen or back glass? Slap some packing tape over the cracks to keep things safe and make disassembly a breeze.
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Step 3
– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe driver and unscrew those two 7.4 mm screws flanking the charging port. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 4
Avoid damaging your device by not inserting an opening pick too far. Mark your pick to keep it safe.
Mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements for extra precision.
Or, tape a coin 3mm from the tip of a pick for a handy guide.
– Take your marker and measure 3mm from the tip, then make a mark on the opening pick. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 5
Here’s the scoop on the Anti-Clamp. The next four steps will show you how this tool makes opening things a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead for an alternate method.
The Anti-Clamp creates suction on both the screen and back glass. If you’re just opening the back glass, you need to secure the screen with tape first. Full tape instructions can be found in the guide.
Need the full lowdown on how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
Make sure the tape is securing only the screen and not the back glass.
– Grab two strips of tape, lay them along the long edges of your iPhone, and then fold them over the screen to keep everything nice and secure. You’ve got this!
Step 6
If your iPhone’s surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, just grab some tape and stick it on to make it grippier. Easy peasy!
– Give that blue handle on the Anti-Clamp a little tug backward to get those arms ready for action.
– With the shiny back glass facing up, gently slide the arms over the right side of your iPhone. Make sure one suction cup is cozy on the back glass and the other finds a nice spot on the screen. Aim to center those cups near the bottom edge.
– Keep your iPhone steady like it’s on a little vacation between the Anti-Clamp’s arms. A small box works wonders for that.
– Now, squeeze those cups together to create some good old suction magic!
Step 7
If tape is missing from your toolkit, a little warmth on those suction cups can help them stick like they mean it.
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms in place.
– Now, twist the handle all the way around—yep, a full turn (360 degrees)—or until those cups start to stretch out.
– As those cups stretch, keep an eye on their vertical alignment. If they start to slide around, no worries! Just take off the Anti-Clamp and stick some tape on there to help the cups hold their ground.
Step 8
Just a heads-up: don’t get your iPhone too hot—the battery’s not a fan of extreme heat. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
If you don’t see a gap after a minute, give it a bit more heat and twist the handle a quarter turn. Let the Anti‑Clamp and a little patience do the magic for you.
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the bottom edge of the back glass until it’s warm to the touch.
– Chill out for about a minute while the adhesive loosens, and you’ll see a gap forming between the back glass and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick into that gap like a pro.
– Use the pull tabs on the suction cups to remove the Anti-Clamp.
– Skip the next two steps.
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Step 9
Let’s kick things off with the first two steps to create a little gap using a trusty suction handle. You’ve got this!
If you’re feeling fancy, grab an iOpener to warm up that back glass. Just follow these simple instructions to heat and apply it just right!
– Warm up the bottom edge of the back glass with a hair dryer or heat gun until it’s nice and toasty. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 10
If you’re not seeing that gap just yet, no worries! Just add a bit more heat to the edge and give it another go.
– Stick a suction handle onto the bottom edge of the back glass.
– Give the handle a firm, steady pull to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Step 11
As you carefully cut through the adhesive holding the back glass in place, remember to keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm. This will help you steer clear of any trouble in those sensitive areas!
– Be mindful of the fragile cable that connects the back glass to your iPhone—it’s right by the volume up button. Avoid inserting your pick here to prevent cutting the cable.
– Watch out for the spring contacts scattered around the edge of the iPhone.
Step 12
If the adhesive is putting up a fight, give that edge a little heat for about a minute and then give it another go!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through that pesky adhesive.
– Keep the opening pick tucked in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up.
Step 13
– Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the left edge of that back glass until it’s toasty enough to touch. You’re just getting it cozy for the next steps!
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Step 14
Keep your pick shallow, no more than 3 mm, to protect those spring contacts. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
You’ll feel and hear those metal clips giving way as you glide past them.
– Pop in another opening pick near the bottom-left corner next to the one you already have.
– Glide that pick along the left edge to break the adhesive and release those metal clips.
– Keep this pick at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 15
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the top edge and top-right corner of that back glass until it feels nice and toasty to the touch. You’ve got this!
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Step 16
Keep your pick to a maximum depth of 3 mm to steer clear of any spring contact mishaps!
– Pop a third pick into the top-left corner.
– Glide that pick along the top edge, looping around the top-right corner, and pause when you hit the volume up button.
– Keep this pick in place to stop the adhesive from resealing.
Step 17
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and give the right edge of the back glass a warm hug until it’s toasty enough to touch!
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Step 18
Keep your pick at a safe depth—no more than 3 mm—to protect those delicate spring contacts from any accidental harm!
– Pop in a fourth opening pick right into the bottom-right corner—let’s get this party started!
– Gently glide that pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping just below the volume down button. Nice and easy!
– Keep this pick in place to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. You’re doing great!
Step 19
By now, the back glass should be ready to part ways with the frame. If it’s being a bit clingy, give the perimeter another pass with your pick to find any remaining adhesive or stubborn clips.
– Gently swing the back glass to the right side of your iPhone to break free from the stubborn adhesive.
– Hold the back glass in place with a clean, sturdy object to keep everything steady.
Step 20
– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 driver to unscrew the three tiny screws holding the battery connector cover in place:
– Two 1.3 mm screws
– One 1.0 mm screw
Step 21
– Go ahead and gently lift off the battery connector cover. You’ve got this!
Step 22
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the tip underneath the battery press connector to pop it up and disconnect it. Easy peasy!
– When it’s time to reconnect those press connectors, take a breath and align one side carefully, then give it a firm push until you hear that satisfying click. Repeat the same on the other side, and you’re good to go!
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Step 23
– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 driver and let’s take off that back glass connector cover! You’ll need to remove four screws:
– First up, two screws that are 1.3 mm long – easy peasy!
– And don’t forget the two 1.0 mm long screws – they’re just as important!
Step 24
– Gently lift the back glass connector cover straight up and pop it off like a pro.
Step 25
– Gently wiggle a spudger to loosen and disconnect the back glass connector.
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Step 26
Now’s a great time to give your iPhone a quick test before sealing everything up! Just temporarily hook up the battery and back glass, power it on, and check that everything is working like a charm. Once you’ve confirmed it’s all good, power it down and get back to reassembling.
– Time to pop off that back glass! Be gentle, it’s like unwrapping a present.
– Now, as you’re putting things back together:
– Follow this guide to make sure you reapply that adhesive and snugly fit your back glass back in place.
Step 27
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect those earpiece speaker and 5G mmWave antenna connectors. You’ve got this!
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Step 28
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop off the last seven silver connectors from the top of the logic board. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 29
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up those three sneaky black connectors that were hiding under their buddies. You’ve got this!
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Step 30
– Grab that standoff driver and take out the five screws holding the logic board in place:
– Two 4.5 mm-long screws
– One 3.4 mm-long screw
– One 4.2 mm-long screw
– One 3.3 mm-long screw
Step 31
– This snapshot highlights the screen connector tucked under the logic board with the board out of the way. The following two steps will guide you on how to pop this connector off the logic board.
Step 32
First things first, if your iPhone has a SIM tray, go ahead and pop that bad boy out before moving on.
Double-check that all the connectors are unplugged from the top of the logic board. We don’t want any accidental surprises!
Hold your horses! Don’t remove the logic board just yet. There’s still a sneaky cable hanging out on the bottom side.
– Wedge the flat edge of an opening pick between the battery and the logic board. Keep the pick steady with your fingers.
– Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the right side of the logic board.
– Carefully pry with the spudger to lift the logic board and disconnect the screen connector.
– Flip the logic board over, being extra cautious not to strain the attached cable.
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Step 33
– Gently nudge the front sensor connector with the tip of your spudger to pop it free from the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 34
– Carefully take out the logic board.
Step 35
Here come two handy tips to guide you in reconnecting that logic board like a pro!
– Alright, time to get that front sensor cable back in action! Just line up the connector with its home on the logic board and give it a gentle press down with your finger. You’ve got this!
– As you place the logic board back down, do a quick check to ensure no sneaky loose connectors are hiding underneath. We want everything snug and happy!
Step 36
– Alright, listen up! You can’t just plug that display connector into the bottom of the logic board without first saying goodbye to the screen. But don’t fret! You can totally connect it by securing the logic board in place with some screws.
– Make sure the logic board is cozy and snug against its screw posts. These little guys help line everything up perfectly with the display connector hiding underneath.
– Keep the momentum going with reassembly until you’ve plugged the battery back in. Now comes the moment of truth—give your iPhone a little power-up to see if that screen lights up. If it’s still playing hard to get, don’t worry! Just check out the screen guide to reconnect that display connector manually.
