How to Replace Left Joy Con Sensor Rail on Nintendo Switch
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 20 Steps
Get ready to tackle the task of swapping out that pesky left Joy Con sensor rail on your Nintendo Switch! While the Switch is a fan of JIS screws, a Phillips screwdriver will do the trick if you’re in a bind. Just be gentle with those screws—nobody likes a stripped screw! Our Phillips bits are made to work seamlessly with JIS-style screws. Quick tip: when you take off the shield plate, don’t forget to refresh the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Regular thermal paste isn’t up for the job of filling big gaps, so grab some K5 Pro viscous thermal paste for the best results. And just a heads up, this guide and the part we offer are perfect for both the original Nintendo Switch model from 2017 and the refreshed version from 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively). If you find yourself in a bind, remember, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
Before diving into this repair adventure, ensure your device is fully powered down and ready for action.
– Give that tiny round button on the back of your Joy Con controller a good press and hold, like you’re in a game showdown!
– While keeping that button down, gently slide the controller upwards, like you’re lifting off to victory!
Step 2
Now do the same thing for the other Joy-Con—you’re halfway there!
– Keep sliding that Joy Con upward until it’s totally free from the console!
Step 3
As you dive into this repair adventure, remember to keep an eye on each screw and return it to its original home. It’s like a little treasure hunt for your tools!
– Grab your trusty Y00 screwdriver and let’s tackle those four 6.3 mm-long screws holding the rear panel in place. You’ve got this!
Step 4
To keep those pesky screws from getting stripped, press down firmly, take your time, and if they’re being stubborn, give a JIS 000 or PH 000 driver a shot!
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 driver or the official iFixit PH 000 driver and let’s get those screws out! We’re looking to remove the screws holding the rear panel in place:
– One little 2.5 mm-long screw at the top edge of the device, just waiting to be freed.
– Two more 2.5 mm-long screws hanging out at the bottom edge of the device, ready for their turn.
Step 5
– Let’s get started! To begin, use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official PH0000 driver to remove the two 3.8mm center screws located on the sides of the device – one screw on each side. Make sure you’ve got the right tool for the job, and you’ll be golden!
Step 6
If you’ve got a microSD card hanging out in the slot, it’s time to evict it before moving on to the next step.
– Gently pop up that kickstand on the back of your device using your finger—easy as pie!
Step 7
– Grab your JIS 000 screwdriver or a PH 000 driver to tackle the 1.6 mm screw hiding in the kickstand well. Easy peasy!
– Flip that kickstand back into its closed position like a pro.
Step 8
The game card cartridge flap is like a little gatekeeper for the plastic shell, making it tricky to fully lift the rear panel if it’s closed. Just a heads up as you dive into this repair adventure!
– Flip open the game card cartridge flap like you’re unlocking a secret passage.
– Gently lift the rear panel up from the bottom of your device and slide it off – easy does it!
Step 9
– Grab a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official PH 000 driver, and use it to remove the 3.1 mm screw holding the microSD card reader in place. You’re almost there!
Step 10
– Gently use your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device, disconnecting and removing it like a pro.
– When putting everything back together, double-check that the press connector hiding under the foam pad is snugly connected to the motherboard. It might be easier to peel off the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.
Tools Used
Step 11
– Grab a JIS 000 screwdriver or a PH 000 driver, and let’s get cracking! Time to unscrew the six 3 mm screws holding the shield plate in place. You’ve got this!
Step 12
If the foam doesn’t peel away easily, gently try peeling it from different spots to avoid tearing.
– Gently use your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers to lift up the foam piece from the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port—it’s like peeling a sticker, but cooler!
Tools Used
Step 13
A thick layer of pink thermal goop keeps things cool by connecting the shield plate to the copper heat sink below. It’s like a cozy blanket for your Switch to avoid overheating.
Feeling a bit of resistance? Totally normal! That shield plate is snugly stuck to the heat sink with thermal paste—nothing you can’t handle.
– Slide a spudger under the shield plate along the edge of your device—be gentle, no need to rush.
– Carefully pry it up and lift the shield plate out. Boom! One less part in your way.
– The pink thermal compound can be reused if you’re careful—just keep it clean and ensure it forms solid contact between the heat sink and the shield when putting things back together.
– If a replacement is needed, check out our thermal paste guide to safely remove the old compound and apply something suitable, like K5 Pro, during reassembly.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Gently slide the point of a spudger under the battery connector and lift it straight up to pop it out of its cozy little home on the motherboard. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 15
– Grab an opening tool, a trusty spudger, or even just your fingernail, and carefully flip up that tiny, hinged locking flap on the Joy-Con rail data cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 16
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently slide the Joy-Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Take your time—you’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 17
– Gently lift the battery connector using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, and move it out of the way so the Joy Con rail’s data cable is free to do its thing.
Tools Used
Step 18
– Gently coax the Joy-Con rail data cable out from under the motherboard using your fingers or a pair of tweezers. Take your time—no rush, just steady moves!
Tools Used
Step 19
These screws are on pretty tight, so getting them out might take some patience. To avoid stripping them, press down firmly, take it slow, and switch to a different screwdriver if they’re being stubborn.
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 screwdriver or the official iFixit PH 000 driver, and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those four 3.7 mm screws that are holding the left Joy Con rail snugly to the device’s frame. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Hold your new part up next to the old one like they’re long-lost twins. If something seems off, you might need to transfer some bits and bobs or peel off adhesive backings before popping it into place.
– When you’re ready to bring your device back to life, just reverse these steps like rewinding your favorite mixtape!
– Don’t forget to recycle your old parts responsibly. Find an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and let them do their thing.
– Ran into a hiccup? No worries! Try some quick troubleshooting, or check out our Nintendo Switch Answers community for some friendly advice.
– If all else fails, remember—you’ve got Salvation Repair in your corner. Schedule a repair and let the pros handle it!
Success!
