How to Replace MacBook Pro 15 Left Clutch Hinge
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: if you run into any hiccups along the way, don’t sweat it! You can always schedule a repair with us at Salvation Repair. We’ve got your back!
Swap out that worn-out clutch hinge to keep your display opening as smooth as butter!
Step 1
– Press both battery release tabs and pop that battery right out of your computer. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 2
– Pop out the trio of matching Phillips screws from the memory door. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 3
– Gently raise the memory door just enough to get a good hold of it, then slide it toward you to pop it out from the casing. You’ve got this!
Step 4
– Time to get your hands a little dirty! Start by unscrewing those two 2.8 mm Phillips screws hanging out in the battery compartment by the latch. You’ve got this!
Step 5
– Alright, let’s get started by taking out these 6 screws:
Step 6
– Go ahead and show those four 3.2 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer who’s boss!
Step 7
– Give your computer a little twist and turn it 90 degrees! Now, let’s get those two 3.2 mm Phillips screws out from the back. You’ve got this!
Step 8
– Give your computer a little twist and turn it 90 degrees once more. Now, let’s tackle those four 3.2 mm Phillips screws hanging out on the side. Time to show them who’s boss!
Step 9
Take it easy when removing the upper case! It’s connected to the logic board with a ribbon cable, so give it a gentle touch.
– Gently lift the back of the case and use your fingers to glide along the sides, freeing it as you go. Once the sides are clear, give the case a little rock up and down to help release the front of the upper case (there are some sneaky plastic clips that need to pop off).
Step 10
– Gently unplug the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, and feel free to peel away any pesky tape that’s in the way.
– Carefully lift off the upper case.
Step 11
– Unplug the three antenna cables from the Airport Extreme card. It’s like giving your device a little break!
– Apple has thoughtfully provided a handy label to guide you on where each color antenna cable should go. Just keep an eye on it when you’re plugging those cables back in!
Step 12
– Gently guide those Airport antenna cables out of their cozy channel nestled in the left speaker.
Step 13
– Gently slide the iSight cable to the left and out of its connector to disconnect it from the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 14
– Pop the inverter cable off the logic board by sliding a spudger under the cable and lifting it up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 15
– Gently wiggle that display data cable free from the logic board by pulling it to the side. You’ve got this!
Step 16
– Time to get your tools out! Unscrew the shiny silver T6 Torx screw that’s holding the ground loop of the display data cable to the casing. You’ve got this!
Step 17
– Keep a steady hand on the display while you pop out these 3 screws:
Step 18
– Grab the display assembly on both sides and give it a smooth lift, freeing it from the computer. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 19
– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Carefully take out the two 5 mm Phillips screws located in the lower left and right corners of the display. That’s right, just two screws to tackle!
Step 20
– Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger right between the plastic strip that clings to the rear bezel and the front bezel, making sure it’s perpendicular to the display. You got this!
– With the spudger still in place, give it a gentle twist away from the display to help those bezels part ways like old friends.
– Keep working your way along the left edge of the display, and soon enough, the rear bezel will be happily separated from the front bezel. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 21
– Get ready to show that display who’s boss by gently inserting the flat end of a spudger between the plastic strip on the back bezel and the front bezel.
– Keep that spudger in place and give it a little twist away from the display to work your magic and separate those front and rear bezels.
– Glide along the right edge of the display with finesse until that rear bezel and front bezel part ways like old friends.
Tools Used
Step 22
– Slide the flat end of a spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.
– Twist your spudger toward the rear bezel to separate it from the front bezel.
– If needed, widen the gap between the lower edge of the rear bezel and the clutch cover until they’re completely apart.
Tools Used
Step 24
Hey there! Just a heads up: the display inverter is a super slim and sensitive circuit board, so handle it with care. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the inverter board out of the clutch cover like you’re unveiling a surprise gift!
Step 25
– Give that LCD backlight a break from the inverter by gently detaching its connector from the inverter board.
Step 26
Handle the inverter cable ground loop with care, it’s a super thin and fragile wire that deserves a gentle touch!
– Go ahead and disconnect the inverter cable by gently pulling its connector away from the socket on the inverter.
Step 27
– Take off the yellow kapton tape from the bottom left of the screen.
– Peel away the three green antenna ground straps from the copper tape at the bottom of the LCD.
– Take off the tape that’s holding the camera cable to the LCD.
Step 28
– Gently lift off the bits of tape that are keeping the display data cable and camera cable connectors under wraps.
– Carefully peel the camera cable away from the foam tape at the top edge of the LCD, like unwrapping a present!
Step 29
– Gently wiggle the camera cable free from its snug little socket on the camera board.
– Carefully detach the display data cable connector from its cozy spot on the LCD.
– Guide both cables lovingly parallel to the smile of the logic board.
Step 30
– Got a Core Duo machine? Scope out picture 1 and pop out those three Phillips screws connecting the clutch assembly to the bottom edge of the front display bezel near the display data cable.
– If you’re rocking a Core 2 Duo Model A1211 machine, check out picture 2 and remove the two Phillips screws connecting the clutch assembly to the lower edge of the front display bezel near the display data cable. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 31
– Time to bid farewell to that tiny Phillips screw hiding behind the display data cable. Give it a gentle tug.
– Say goodbye to the small rectangular steel bracket by sliding it away from the right clutch hinge. Keep it moving!
Step 33
If you find it necessary, feel free to give the same treatment to the right side of the clutch assembly!
Step 34
– Gently guide the inverter/camera cable away from the left clutch hinge and carefully detach it from the display.
Step 35
– Undo the four T6 Torx screws keeping the left clutch hinge attached to the front display bezel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
