How To Replace PlayStation 5 USB Board Tutorial

– Got your PlayStation 5 standing tall? Give it a little flip so the stand is facing the ceiling, like it’s ready to party!

– Now, grab a coin or a flathead screwdriver and let’s pop out that 26.5 mm-long stand screw. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift straight up to free the stand.

– Pop that screw right into the little cubby on the bottom of the stand like a pro!

– Grab a pair of tweezers or your trusty fingernail and gently pop that cap off the cubby. You got this!

– Now, use your finger to snugly press the cap into the screw hole. Perfect fit!

– Give the stand a little twist in the counterclockwise direction to snugly tuck away the cubby.

– For the coolest look, place your PlayStation 5 horizontally with the charging port facing up.

– Easily pop off the stand by lifting it straight up – it’s as simple as that!

– Give your device a little twirl, revealing the USB and ethernet ports hanging out on the left side as if they’re ready to mingle.

– Gently lift up the corner of the faceplate, encouraging it to gracefully detach from the case.

– Gently lift the corner and slide the faceplate down towards the bottom of your device.

– Now, go ahead and take off the right faceplate.

– Slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the grille and into the gap right above the fan.

– Gently lift using the spudger to detach the grille from the case.

– Gently lift the grille away from the case to set it free.

– Get ready with your TR8 Torx security driver to tackle the four screws holding the fan shroud in place:

– Pair of 23.3 mm-long screws

– One 11.4 mm-long screw

– One 31 mm-long screw

– Raise the fan shroud straight up to pop it off.

– Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the black wire cover and into the little gap right above those fan wires.

– Now, give that wire cover a gentle lift with the spudger until you can easily grab it with your fingers.

– Get groovy and use your fingers to peel off the wire cover.

– Gently grasp the edges of the fan cable connector with your fingers, and give it a little pull upwards to disconnect it from the motherboard.

– Gently lift the fan out of its cozy home in the case.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out that 17 mm-long screw holding the SSD cover in place. Let’s get that cover off!

– Give that SSD cover a gentle nudge with your finger, sliding it up towards the top of the device to release it from its cozy home in the case.

– Now, go ahead and lift off the SSD cover. You’re doing great!

– Get a good grip on the edges of the optical drive cable connector with your fingers and give it a nice, firm pull to disconnect it from the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Gently grasp the edges of the optical drive cable connector with your fingers and give it a little lift to disconnect it from the optical drive. You’ve got this!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away that tamper-evident sticker that’s hiding the last case screw. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those eleven screws holding the case together:

– Six screws measuring 18.6 mm long

– Two screws that are 23.3 mm in length

– Two screws that stretch out to 43.2 mm

– And finally, one little screw that’s just 7.3 mm long.

– Gently lift the case straight up to set it free.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and press down on the optical drive connector’s metal locking tab.

– While holding the metal tab down, use tweezers to pull the blue pull tab straight out from the connector to disconnect the cable from the optical drive.

– Gently lift the optical drive away from the device to free it.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently press down on that sneaky metal locking tab of the optical drive connector.

– With the metal tab held down, take a pair of tweezers and carefully tug the blue pull tab straight out from the connector to disconnect the cable from the motherboard. Easy peasy!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and give that blue pull tab a gentle tug, pulling it straight out from the connector. This will gracefully disconnect the power and eject button ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug on that blue pull tab, pulling it straight away from the connector. This will disconnect the LED ribbon cable like a pro!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently hold onto the white Wi-Fi antenna wire right at its metal base, getting as close to the connector as you can.

– Carefully lift the wire’s connector straight up to unplug it from the motherboard.

– Now, let’s do the same for the black Wi-Fi antenna wire. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and give a gentle squeeze to the black or blue power supply antenna wire right at its metal base, getting as close to the connector as you can.

– Now, with a steady hand, lift that connector straight up to free it from the motherboard.

– Don’t forget to do the same for the white power supply antenna wire!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the white sticker that’s keeping those antenna wires cozy on the top shield plate.

– Carefully detach the antenna wires from their sticker hideout.

– Give the white sticker a little love and press it back onto the top shield plate so it can be ready for reuse!

– Follow the same process to peel back the remaining four stickers. Keep going, you’re doing great!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel back the white sticker that’s keeping the LED ribbon cable cozy with the heat sink.

– Lift the LED ribbon cable from beneath the sticker, giving it the freedom it deserves.

– Give the white sticker a little pat on the back as you press it down onto the heat sink, ready for its next adventure.

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those forty-two screws holding down the top shield plate:

– You’ll find forty-one screws that are 7.3 mm long, just waiting for you.

– And don’t forget the one special screw that’s 43.2 mm long!

– Carefully lift the top shield plate off the motherboard to set it free.

– As you put everything back together, it’s a great opportunity to swap out any thermal pads on the main board if they need a refresh. Those pads can sometimes stick to both the top shield plate and the main board, so watch out!

– Gently press down on the metal locking tab on the USB board cable’s connector using your finger.

– With the metal tab pressed, use the flat end of a spudger against the foam pad on the ribbon cable and pull it away from the connector to disconnect it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the corner of the faceplate featuring the PlayStation logo to pop it free from the case. Keep it cool and take your time—you’re doing great!

– Gently lift the corner and slide that faceplate down towards the bottom of your device like it’s doing the cha-cha.

– Now, go ahead and take off the left faceplate with confidence!

– Grab that Torx T8 driver and loosen up those two 29.4mm-long screws holding down the case to the motherboard and heat sink assembly.

– Lift the front edge of the case off the motherboard and heat sink assembly.

– With the front edge raised, push the case back away from the motherboard and heat sink assembly, guiding the charging port out of its slot.

– Remove the case.

– The front plate might come apart from the plastic case. When reassembling, make sure the front plate is in place before reinserting the motherboard and power supply.

– Gently lift up to pop off the middle panel from the case.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work! Unscrew the three 6.5 mm-long screws holding the USB board in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently raise the USB board straight up to free it from the interactive band.