How to Replace the Nintendo Switch Motherboard: Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 41 Steps
Ready to swap out that faulty motherboard in your Nintendo Switch? No worries, we’ve got you covered. The Switch uses JIS screws, but if you don’t have a JIS screwdriver on hand, a Phillips will do just fine—just make sure not to strip those screws! Good news though: Phillips bits are made to work with JIS screws, so you’re all set. A quick heads up: when you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Regular thermal paste doesn’t work well for bridging big gaps, so K5 Pro viscous thermal paste is your best bet. You’ll still need regular thermal paste for the CPU though. Also, there are two versions of the Nintendo Switch: model HAC-001 (released in 2017) and model HAC-001(-01) (released in 2019), so double-check that your replacement motherboard matches the model of your Switch. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
First things first, let’s get that device powered down completely before diving into the repair magic!
– Give that little round button on the back of the Joy Con controller a good press and hold, just like you mean it!
– While you’re still holding that button down, gently slide the controller up. You’ve got this!
Step 2
Now, just rinse and repeat this process for the other Joy Con! You’ve got this!
– Keep sliding that Joy Con up until it’s free from the console, just like a bird taking flight!
Step 3
As you go through this repair, keep tabs on every single screw—each one has its own little home, and it’s counting on you to put it back where it belongs.
– Grab your trusty Y00 screwdriver and take out the four 6.3 mm-long screws holding the rear panel in place. Easy peasy!
Step 4
To keep those stubborn screws from stripping, press down firmly, take it slow, and swap to a JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if they’re being extra tricky.
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 driver or the official iFixit PH 000 driver and let’s get those screws out! We’re looking to remove the screws holding the rear panel in place:
– One little 2.5 mm-long screw perched on the top edge of the device
– Two more 2.5 mm-long screws hanging out on the bottom edge of the device
Step 5
– Grab your JIS 000 screwdriver or a snazzy official PH 000 driver, and carefully remove those two 3.8 mm screws holding the sides of your device. One on each side, easy peasy!
Step 6
Got a microSD card chillin’ in the slot? Go ahead and pop that out now before moving onto the next step. Easy peasy!
– Let’s get started by flipping up the kickstand on the back of your device – just use your finger to pop it up.
Step 7
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 screwdriver or the official PH 000 driver from iFixit and gently unscrew that 1.6 mm screw hiding in the kickstand well. You’ve got this!
– Now, go ahead and close the kickstand. Easy peasy!
Step 8
The game card cartridge flap hooks onto the other part of the plastic shell, making it impossible to fully lift the rear panel if it’s closed.
– Flip open that game card cartridge flap like you’re giving it a high five!
– Gently lift the rear panel from the bottom of the device—it’s like peeling open a treasure chest!
Step 9
– Grab a JIS 000 screwdriver or a PH 000 driver, and unscrew that 3.1 mm little guy holding the microSD card reader in place. Keep it safe—you got this!
Step 10
– Gently coax the microSD card reader out of its cozy spot in the device using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers. It’s time for it to take a little break!
– When you’re putting everything back together, double-check that the press connector hiding under the foam pad is snugly connected to the motherboard. If it helps, you might want to peel back that foam pad before reinstalling the card reader for a smoother fit.
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Step 11
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 screwdriver or the official PH 000 driver and unscrew the six 3 mm screws holding the shield plate in place. Let’s get this done!
Step 12
If the foam isn’t coming off smoothly, don’t wrestle with it—nobody wants a torn foam disaster! Try peeling gently from different spots to ease it off.
– Gently peel back the foam on the top edge near the fan exhaust port using your fingers or a pair of tweezers. No rush – just take it slow and steady, and you’ll have it off in no time!
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Step 13
There’s a generous smear of pink thermal goo snugly connecting the shield plate to the copper heat sink below. It’s like a heat-relief handshake to keep your Switch running cool.
You might notice a bit of stickiness while prying—no worries! The shield plate is lightly glued to the heat sink with thermal paste, so a little resistance is totally normal.
– Slide your trusty spudger under the shield plate along the device’s edge—like you’re sneaking it into a secret meeting.
– Gently pry upwards to lift the shield plate and set it free from the device—easy does it!
– Keep the pink thermal compound clean and make sure it hugs the heat sink and shield snugly during reassembly—you’ve got this!
– Need to replace it? No worries! Check out our thermal paste guide to wipe away the old compound and slap on a fresh one, like K5 Pro, during reassembly.
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Step 14
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the battery connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard—no need to rush, just a smooth move to keep things cool.
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Step 15
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 screwdriver or the official iFixit PH 000 driver and get ready to tackle those three 3 mm screws holding the heat sink snugly to the motherboard. You’ve got this!
Step 16
Be gentle with that foam! It’s super delicate and can tear easily, so let’s get it off safely using this technique:
Just peel back the foam enough to give the fan some breathing room—no need to overdo it!
– Gently peel back the two foam pieces that are stuck over the heatsink and the fan. Take your time—no rush here!
– Slide the pointy end of a spudger under the part of the foam that isn’t glued down to anything. Start small and work your way in.
– Use your finger to press the top of the foam and keep it steady while you work—it’s like teamwork, but with tools!
– Roll the spudger tip under the foam all the way to the other side to free it completely. Slow and steady wins the race!
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Step 17
You might notice a little bit of a tug here. No worries, that’s just the heat sink getting cozy with the CPU thanks to some thermal paste. It’s all part of the process!
– Gently pry the heatsink off the motherboard using a spudger or your fingers.
– Give the heatsink and CPU a nice clean using some high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Then, apply new thermal paste to the CPU before putting things back together.
– Don’t forget to apply thermal paste to all the spots that had it before. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which helps with extra cooling.
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Step 18
– Grab an opening tool or even just your fingernail, and gently pop up the tiny hinged flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector like a pro.
Step 19
No need to wrestle with the cable! If it’s being stubborn, double-check that the locking flap is up, adjust the cable’s position, and give it another shot.
If your touchscreen is playing hard to get after the repair but your Game Card reader is still in the game, double-check that this cable is snugly in place. If your Game Card reader is also giving you the silent treatment, take a peek at the Game Card connector in the next step instead.
– Time to get a little tricky! Use a pair of tweezers to carefully slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the game card reader board. Take your time, it’s a delicate move.
– Before you plug the cable back in during reassembly, make sure the ZIF connector locking flap is flipped up and ready for action.
– With the cable parallel to the board, gently slide it into its connector. Easy does it – you got this!
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Step 20
If the touch screen’s acting up or game cards are MIA after putting things back together, chances are that press connector didn’t quite get its VIP treatment. Gently unplug it, give it another go, and you’ll be back in action!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Easy peasy!
– When it’s time to reconnect, just align those connectors like a pro! Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If things get misaligned, those little pins can bend and that’s a no-go. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 21
– Grab a JIS 000 screwdriver or a trusty PH 000 driver to unscrew the three 3.1 mm screws that are holding the headphone jack and game card reader board in place. They’re pretty easy to spot, so no stress—just take your time and get them out of the way.
Step 22
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers or just your fingers and gently lift out the headphone jack bracket. You’ve got this!
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Step 23
– Grab your trusty tweezers or use your fingers to gently pop out the headphone jack and game card reader board. Easy does it—you’re doing great!
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Step 24
– Time to get started! Use an opening tool, spudger, or even your trusty fingernail to carefully flip up that tiny, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s easier than you think, and you’re doing great so far!
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Step 25
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull that ribbon cable straight out of its cozy connector on the motherboard. You’ve got this!
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Step 26
– Grab your trusty opening tool, spudger, or even your fingernail, and gently lift that little hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 27
– Grab some tweezers and gently unplug the fan cable by pulling it straight out from its connector on the motherboard. Take your time—patience is key!
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Step 28
– Grab your trusty opening tool, spudger, or just your fingernail if you’re feeling adventurous, and gently lift up that little hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 29
– Carefully use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. If it doesn’t come out easily, don’t force it – make sure it’s aligned properly and try again. Remember, patience is key when working with small components!
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Step 30
– Gently use an opening tool, spudger, or even your trusty fingernail to lift the small, hinged locking flap on the tiny LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently slide the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard—easy does it!
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Step 32
– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up the little hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail’s data cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 33
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently slide the ribbon cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Easy does it—straight out, no twisting or yanking!
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Step 34
– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift the black antenna cable straight out of its cozy spot on the motherboard. You’ve got this!
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Step 35
– Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to pop the white antenna cable straight up and out of its spot on the motherboard. Easy does it—you’re the boss of this repair!
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Step 36
Hey, steer clear of yanking on the connector by the speaker wires. They’re super delicate and can snap off faster than you can say ‘oops’!
– Grab your fingers or a pair of tweezers and gently pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. No need to rush – just take your time and keep it steady.
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Step 37
Be gentle with the speaker wires—they’re super thin and can break if you pull too hard. Handle with care and avoid any tug-of-war situations.
– Grab your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle the left speaker connector straight out from its socket on the motherboard—take your time, you’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Grab an opening tool, spudger, or even your trusty fingernail, and carefully pop up the little hinged flap on the Joy-Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!
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Step 39
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard—easy does it!
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Step 40
– Alright, grab a JIS 000 screwdriver or a trusty PH 000 driver, and let’s tackle these screws with style:
– Four 2.5 mm screws are up first—easy peasy!
– Next, take on the two 3.1 mm screws—you’re doing awesome!
Step 41
– Line up your new part with the old one—double-check for any bits and bobs that need transferring or sticky stuff to peel off before installation.
– When putting your device back together, just reverse the steps in this guide—easy peasy!
– Dispose of your old parts responsibly by taking them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
– Hit a snag? Don’t stress! Try some basic troubleshooting or connect with our Nintendo Switch Answers community for a helping hand.
– Need extra support? You can always schedule a repair with us!
