How to Replace the Xbox Series X Wi-Fi Board: DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 43 Steps
Switch off and disconnect all cables
Get ready to swap out the Wi-Fi board on your Xbox Series X! Before diving in, make sure to power down your console completely and unplug all those cables. And hey, don’t forget to follow those electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety tips while you’re at it. Let’s keep that console safe and sound!
Step 2
To make it easier, use an iOpener or hair dryer to warm the sticker.
Just peel the sticker enough to access the hidden screw. No need to remove it completely.
These stickers are tamper-evident, but don’t stress—Microsoft can’t void your warranty if you don’t damage anything. Enjoy the process!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently peel back the big sticker on the back panel. This will unveil the second screw. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 3
As you tackle this repair, remember to keep a close eye on each screw and make sure it finds its way back to its original home. This way, your console will stay happy and healthy, and you’ll avoid any accidental mishaps.
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! You’ll need to unscrew those two 7.4 mm-long screws that are holding the back panel in place. Let’s do this!
Step 6
– Grab the back panel at the opening you just made and gently pull it up and away from the shell to release those long edges.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, give a little press along the edges of the back panel to snap it back into place.
Step 7
The back panel fits snugly into a groove at the top of the shell.
– Gently tilt the back panel upwards and slide it away from the top edge of the shell to free it from the gap.
– Now, go ahead and remove the back panel.
Step 8
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those screws holding the fan to the center chassis:
– One 10.5 mm pancake screw
– Two 8.8 mm screws. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 9
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Treat them gently, and they’ll thank you later.
– Using your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers, gently grab the edges of the fan cable connector and give it a little tug upward to disconnect it from the center chassis. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to tuck that fan cable beneath its tiny cable guide on the fan housing. This will keep it from getting in the way of the back panel. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 10
When replacing the fan, keep in mind that the new one might not come with the plastic installation bracket. This bracket is secured to the fan with four T10 Torx screws, and it’s not shown in this guide. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently slide the fan out of its cozy little slot to set it free.
– When you’re ready to pop it back in, remember—there’s only one way to do it right! Make sure Master Chief is facing you, and you’ll be golden.
Step 12
Keep that locking tab open while you get the base going—it’s a little dance you have to do!
Once everything’s locked in, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line will be perfectly aligned with the sides of your device. Nice and neat!
– Hold the base and give it a twist counterclockwise to free it from the shell.
– Take the base off.
– When putting it back together, drop the base tabs into their spots on the shell and twist clockwise until the base clicks into place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 13
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Remove those two 8.8 mm screws that are holding the optical drive’s vibration isolator snugly in place—one’s hanging out on the base and the other is chillin’ on the top of the isolator. You’ve got this!
Step 14
To remove the vibration isolator from the optical drive, gently wiggle it off each side. The silicone pads grip the sides, so a little finesse will do the trick!
– Gently lift up the optical drive’s vibration isolator to take it out.
– When putting everything back together, make sure the vibration isolator is snugly wrapped around both edges of the optical drive, so it fits perfectly with the rest of the center chassis.
Step 15
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Your tech will thank you for it.
– Grab those blunt tweezers, grip the edges of the optical drive power connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive. Easy peasy!
– Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive. Just like that!
Tools Used
Step 16
If the drive isn’t lined up just right, the top vibration isolator won’t fit like a glove, and the disc reader might end up a bit off-kilter with the front of the console. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back!
– Grab the top edge of the optical drive and gently pull it out of its cozy slot in the shell. It’s time for a little removal action!
– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to line up the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the shell’s bottom. It’s like a puzzle piece fitting right in!
Step 17
Ribbon cables and connectors are super delicate, so be gentle when opening locking tabs and pull cables slowly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty spudger and flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. Easy-peasy!
– When putting things back together, just gently snap that metal tab back into place after you’ve inserted the cable. Smooth and steady.
Tools Used
Step 18
Just tug on that pull tab, not the cable itself. We want to keep everything intact and happy!
Got a USB port cable that’s playing hard to get with the metal chassis? Just grab your trusty iOpener or hair dryer to warm it up. Depending on your Xbox model, you might need to slide an opening pick under the cable to loosen that adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your tweezers and lift that black plastic pull tab to unplug the USB port cable. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 19
Gently tug on the pull tab—leave the cable alone! It’s a team player, not a solo act.
Remember, before you give that cable a pull, press down on the metal tab. Otherwise, you might end up giving it an unwanted vacation—either for the cable or the connector!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently press down the metal tab on the side of the power button cable’s board connector.
– With the tab held down, use tweezers to lift up the pull tab and disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
– When you reassemble, the cable should ‘click’ back into place with a light snap.
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and pop out those three 7.4mm screws holding the center chassis assembly to the shell. Easy peasy! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 21
Depending on your Xbox model, the adhesive might be hiding on the underside of the cable. If that’s the case, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm things up a bit!
– Carefully lift the USB port ribbon cable off the heatsink, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.
Tools Used
Step 22
The center chassis fits snugly against the shell thanks to some handy guide pegs. Just give those pegs a little slide out of their cozy slots, and voila! The chassis can be easily lifted out. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Grab the center chassis and gently pull it towards the cheerful green fan grille at the top of the shell, releasing those guide pegs from their cozy home.
– Carefully lift out the center chassis assembly to free it from the shell.
– When putting everything back together, keep an eye on those ribbon cables—make sure they don’t get squished as you lower the center chassis into the shell.
Step 23
– Go ahead and pop that chassis strap free from the right side of the power supply. You’ve got this!
Step 24
– Gently lift the chassis strap from the power supply and let it hang loose.
– Once you’ve freed the strap, kindly move the loose section aside to keep things tidy.
Step 25
– Grab a T8 Torx driver and unscrew the three screws keeping the power cable port in place:
– Two screws are 13.1 mm long
– One screw is 35 mm long
Step 26
– Gently lift the power connector out of its little home in the chassis.
Step 27
– Pop the latch and lift the cover on that power cable’s plastic guide.
Step 28
– Gently slide the power cable out from under the extra bit of the cable guide.
Step 29
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew that 8.8 mm screw holding down the power supply corner cover. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew those three 9.6 mm screws that are keeping the accessory antenna board snugly attached to the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Grab that antenna board and pull it straight away from the center chassis to pop it out.
– When putting it back together, line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and press it into place.
Step 33
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and let’s get those nine screws out of the board shield:
– Six 8.8 mm black screws
– Two 35 mm silver screws
– One 13.1 mm silver screw
– If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 34
– Gently raise the board shield to pop it out from the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– Unplug the chassis strap from the locking tabs on both sides of the power supply. You’re doing great!
Step 36
– Time to say goodbye to that chassis strap! Go ahead and remove it with confidence.
Step 37
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Keep it classy and avoid any accidental damage.
– Give that locking tab on the 10-pin power connector a gentle squeeze to release it.
– While you’re holding it down, lift the connector straight up to free it from the board. Easy peasy!
Step 38
– Give that 2-pin power connector a gentle squeeze on the locking tab. You’re doing great!
– While keeping that tab pressed, lift the connector straight up like a superstar to disconnect it from the board. Easy peasy!
Step 39
– Lift the lid on the power supply’s plastic cable guide with a little flair!
Step 40
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those four screws holding the power supply in place! You’ll find three shiny 35 mm silver screws and one sleek 8.8 mm black screw just waiting for your attention.
Step 41
– Unplug the power supply and give your device a little breather!
Step 42
– Grab a T8 Torx driver and take out the three 8.8 mm screws holding down the Wi-Fi antenna board. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 43
Hold on tight! Make sure the antenna board is totally free before you lift it up.
– Give that antenna board a gentle tug, pulling it straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it.
– Wave goodbye to the antenna board as you take it out.
– When it’s time to put things back together, make sure to line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and give it a little push to reconnect.
