How to Replace Xbox Series X Motherboard
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 58 Steps
Shut it down and unplug all those cables!
Get ready to dive into the fun of replacing your Xbox Series X motherboard! This guide is also your go-to for reapplying thermal paste to keep things nice and cool. Before you jump in, make sure to completely power down and unplug all those cables from your console. And remember, safety first! Keep those electrostatic discharge (ESD) precautions in mind while you work your magic on the console.
Step 1
Before you dive in, make sure to fully power down and disconnect all cables from your console. Safety first!
Step 2
To make sticker removal a breeze, try warming it up with an iOpener or hair dryer.
Just peel back the sticker enough to access the hidden screw – no need to remove it completely.
Don’t worry about the tamper-evident sticker; as long as you’re careful, you won’t void your warranty. Have fun with your repair!
– Grab some blunt tweezers and carefully peel back that big sticker on the back panel to uncover the second screw. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 3
During this repair, keep an eye on each screw and make sure it finds its way back home to avoid messing up your console.
– Let’s get started! Use a T8 Torx driver to carefully remove the two 7.4mm-long screws that hold the back panel in place. Easy peasy!
Step 6
– Grab the back panel at the opening you just made, and lift it up and away from the shell to unclip those long edges.
– When putting it back together, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.
Step 7
The back panel fits snugly into the gap at the top of the shell. Just slide it in place and you’re good to go!
– Gently lift the back panel from the top edge and pull it away to pop it free from the gap.
– Now, just remove the back panel and you’re one step closer!
Step 8
Step 9
Don’t yank on the wires! Always pull by the connectors.
– Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grab the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull it up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
– When putting it all back together, route the fan cable under its tiny cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn’t mess with the back panel.
Tools Used
Step 10
Step 12
Keep that locking tab open while you get the base started – it’s like a little warm-up exercise!
When everything is locked in place, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line should be parallel with the device’s sides. Easy peasy!
– Grab the base and give it a gentle twist to the left to free it from the shell.
– Carefully lift off the base.
– When putting it back together, align the base tabs with their holes in the shell and twist to the right until you hear that satisfying snap as it locks into place.
Step 13
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and remove the two 8.8 mm screws holding down the optical drive’s vibration isolator to the shell: one is on the base, and the other is up top. Go for it!
Step 14
The vibration isolator holds onto the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you might need to give it a gentle ‘walk’ off each side to slip it off.
– Gently lift the optical drive’s vibration isolator to set it free.
– When putting everything back together, make sure to press the vibration isolator down and around both edges of the optical drive, so it fits snugly with the rest of the center chassis.
Step 15
Always grab cables by their connectors, not the wires—keep those connections strong!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the optical drive power connector. Give it a little tug upwards to disconnect it from the optical drive.
– Now, using your fingers, carefully pull up to disconnect the data cable from the optical drive. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
If the drive isn’t lined up right, the top vibration isolator won’t fit in properly, and the disc reader won’t align with the front of the console.
– Hold onto the top edge of the optical drive and give it a firm tug to slide it out of its slot in the shell.
– When putting things back together, match the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the bottom of the shell.
Step 17
Ribbon cables and connectors are delicate, so be extra gentle when opening the locking tabs and carefully pull the cables. No rush here, take it slow and steady!
– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to pop open that metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
– When you’re putting things back together, just give that metal tab a gentle snap back into place once the cable’s all settled in.
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but leave the cable alone!
If the USB port cable seems stuck to the metal frame, don’t worry! Gently heat the cable using an iOpener or hair dryer. Depending on your Xbox model, you might also need to slide an opening pick under the cable to loosen the adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty tweezers and give that black plastic pull tab a gentle lift to free the USB port cable.
Tools Used
Step 19
Only tug on the pull tab, never the cable itself!
Don’t yank the cable without pressing the metal tab first, or you might end up damaging the cable or connector.
– Time to get your spudger game on! Use the pointed end to press that metal tab on the side of the power button cable’s board connector. Easy peasy!
– Now that the tab is pressed, grab those tweezers and gently pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis. Nice work!
– When you’re putting it all back together, the cable should snap into place like a charm. If it’s not cooperating, don’t stress! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those three 7.4 mm screws that are holding the center chassis assembly snugly in place. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Depending on your Xbox model, the sticky stuff might be hanging out on the bottom side of the cable. If that’s the case, grab your iOpener or a hair dryer to give that cable a warm-up!
– Gently lift and peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.
Tools Used
Step 22
Get ready to set that center chassis free! First, you’ll need to coax the guide pegs out of their slots. These little guys are what keep the chassis aligned with the shell, so gently slide them out to release the chassis.
– Give that center chassis a gentle but firm tug towards the vibrant green fan grille at the top of the shell, letting those guide pegs break free from their cozy home.
– Carefully lift out the center chassis assembly and say goodbye to the shell for now.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, remember to keep an eye on those ribbon cables – we don’t want them getting squished as you lower the center chassis back into place!
Step 23
– Pop the chassis strap loose from the right side of the power supply. You’ve got this!
Step 24
– Gently lift the chassis strap up and off the power supply.
– Once the strap is off, place the loose section to the side.
Step 25
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those screws holding the power cable port to the chassis! Here’s what you’ll need to remove:
– Two screws measuring 13.1 mm
– One screw that’s 35 mm long
Step 26
– Carefully lift the power connector out of its cozy little home in the chassis. You got this!
Step 27
– Pop open the power cable’s plastic guide by unlatching the lid.
Step 28
– Gently pull the power cable out from under the extra section of the cable guide. Just a little tug should do the trick.
Step 29
– Let’s get started! Use a T8 Torx driver to carefully remove the 8.8 mm screw that’s holding the power supply corner cover in place.
Step 31
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and pop out the three 9.6 mm screws holding the accessory antenna board to the center chassis. Let’s get cracking!
Step 32
– Hold the antenna board firmly and gently pull it straight away from the center chassis to detach it.
– When reassembling, line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and press it back into place.
Step 33
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those nine screws holding the board shield in place:
– Six sleek 8.8 mm black screws
– Two shiny 35 mm silver screws
– One dapper 13.1 mm silver screw
Step 34
– Lift up that board shield and take it out from the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– Pop that chassis strap off the locking tabs on either side of the power supply. You’re nailing it!
Step 36
– Say goodbye to the chassis strap! It’s time to gently detach it and set it aside for now. You’ve got this!
Step 37
Be gentle with those cables! Always grasp the connectors, not the wires themselves, to avoid any damage or breakage.
– Give that locking tab on the 10-pin power connector a gentle squeeze to release it.
– While you’re holding that tab down, lift the connector straight up to free it from the board. Easy peasy!
Step 38
With the locking tabs pressed down properly, the interconnect cable will slide out effortlessly.
– Grab that interconnect cable connector base with your fingers, like you’re about to win a prize!
– Press down on each side of the connector to unlock those cable locking tabs, you got this!
– With the tabs unlocked, grip the edges of the interconnect cable and pull it straight out of the connector like a boss.
– When putting it back together, the interconnect cable should ‘snap’ into place when it’s fully inserted. Easy peasy!
Step 39
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and remove the three 35 mm-long silver screws from the power supply. Leave that fourth black screw alone, it’s not part of the plan!
Step 40
– Carefully grab the edges of the center chassis – just the chassis, not the power supply – and gently lift it away from the motherboard and heatsink assembly. Don’t forget to thread the interconnect cable through its designated cutout as you go.
Step 41
The SSD shield has thermal pads on either side, so try to keep them intact during this process.
Step 42
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and gently unscrew the 5.2 mm screw that’s holding the SSD in place. You’ve got this!
Step 43
Once you’ve taken out the SSD screw, the SSD will gracefully lift up at a slight angle, ready for its next adventure.
– Time to set that SSD free! Grip the end of the SSD and gently pull it away from its M.2 board connector. Easy does it – you got this!
– Now it’s time to put everything back together. Insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, then secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw. You’re doing great!
Step 44
Got a middle-locking interconnect cable? Go ahead and skip to the next step.
With the locking tabs pressed down properly, the interconnect cable should slide out with ease.
– Hold onto the base of that interconnect cable connector like you mean it!
– Press down on both sides of the connector to release those pesky cable locking tabs.
– Once those tabs are depressed, grab the edges of the interconnect cable and pull it straight out of the connector to disconnect it – easy peasy!
– Now, go ahead and remove the interconnect cable.
– When you’re putting things back together, listen for that satisfying ‘snap’ as the interconnect cable locks into place. You’ve got this!
Step 45
– Give that locking tab on the interconnect cable a little pinch to free it from the motherboard, then grab your trusty spudger to pop the clip loose.
– Now, use your fingers to gently lift the connector straight up and out of its socket. Easy does it!
– When you’re putting it all back together, slide the #1—SOC side of the interconnect cable connector into its socket with the locking tab facing outward. Press down on the edges until you hear that satisfying snap. You’re all set!
Tools Used
Step 46
Handle with care around the metal shield – those surrounding components are more fragile than they look!
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the edges of the big metal shield sitting in the middle of the motherboard and lift it up with care.
Tools Used
Step 47
– Time to say goodbye to that metal shield! Gently remove it and set it aside.
– When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to place the shield back on. Give it a good push around the edges to make sure it’s snug and secure. You’ve got this!
Step 48
Loosen and tighten the APU tension bracket screws a few turns at a time in a crisscross pattern. Think top left ↔ bottom right ↔ top right ↔ bottom left. Easy does it, and you’ll ace this part!
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those four APU tension bracket screws, each measuring a cool 12.3 mm long. You’ve got this!
Step 49
Avoid wiggling the APU bracket from side to side to protect those delicate surface-mounted components underneath. Just lift it straight up.
– Gently lift the APU bracket straight up with your fingers—like you’re giving it a little hug, but without the awkwardness!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to position the bracket so that the black plastic pieces are aligned with the long edges of the motherboard. Remember, the circular hole (not the oblong one!) should be closer to the interconnect cable socket. Check out the photo for a visual guide!
Step 50
Based on the state of the thermal paste and putty, the board might be stuck to the heatsink assembly. If it doesn’t come off easily, grab a spudger and gently lift the edges of the board to set it free.
– Gently lift the motherboard straight up and off the heatsink to set it free.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, carefully position the board onto the heatsink with the APU facing down. Keep in mind that there’s some thermal paste hanging out on the bottom of the board, so use those alignment pegs to get it just right. If you need to adjust the board, be cautious as it might smear that thermal paste.
Tools Used
Step 51
– First off, give that thermal putty a good look-over—it should be hanging out on the heatsink or the motherboard.
– If you spot any bits that are cracked or have turned into dust, no worries! Just follow the next four steps to kick them to the curb and bring in the new stuff.
– And hey, if you’re just swapping out the thermal paste, feel free to jump right to this step!
Step 52
Watch out for those sneaky little surface-mounted components hiding beneath the thermal pad! Take your time and be gentle to avoid accidentally popping them off. You’ve got this!
– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently scrape away that pesky damaged thermal pad. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 53
When working around those teeny-tiny resistors, grab some cotton swabs – they’re your new best friends!
– Grab some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free microfiber cloth, and let’s get that thermal putty residue wiped away like it never existed!
Tools Used
Step 54
To avoid a sticky situation, slip on some nitrile gloves before handling the thermal putty – your fingers will thank you!
– Snag a small chunk of thermal putty. Check out the size of the thermal pad you’re replacing to see how much you’ll need.
Step 55
– Start by rolling that thermal putty into a little ball of goodness!
– Next, plop the thermal putty right where the old thermal pad used to be—make sure it’s snugly centered over the memory chip. It’s like giving your component a cozy blanket!
– If you’re feeling fancy, grab the flat end of a spudger (or whatever applicator you have handy) to gently spread the thermal putty across the surface of the component. It’s all about that smooth finish!
Tools Used
Step 56
When you’re working close to those tiny resistors, grab some cotton swabs instead! They’re your best buddies for this delicate task.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently scrape away that old thermal paste from the processor. It’s like giving your device a little spa treatment!
– Next up, splash a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (make sure it’s over 90%!) onto the processor. Then, take a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth and wipe away any leftover residue. Your processor will thank you for the fresh start!
Tools Used
Step 57
– Follow the previous step to apply thermal paste to the heat sink. Keep it smooth and even!
Step 58
– Put a tiny dab of thermal paste right in the middle of the APU. Easy peasy!
– To put everything back together, just follow these steps in reverse. When you reattach the heat sink, it’ll spread the thermal paste (and thermal putty if you’re using it) evenly and bond the two parts together. You’ve got this!
