How to Replace Xbox Series X Power Supply Guide

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 41 Steps

Let’s get this party started by powering down your device and unplugging all those pesky cables!

Ready to tackle the power supply swap in your Xbox Series X? If your console is acting like a sleepyhead and refuses to turn on or that light just won’t shine, it might be time for a power supply makeover! Before diving in, make sure your Xbox is fully powered down and all cables are unplugged. And hey, don’t forget to keep it safe by following those electrostatic discharge (ESD) precautions while you work your magic!

Step 1

Before diving in, make sure to power down your console completely and unplug all those pesky cables. Let’s keep things safe and sound!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel away the sticker that’s keeping the first screw on the back panel a secret. It’s hiding near the base, just waiting for you to uncover it!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 2

To make things easier, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm up that sticker for a smooth removal.

Just peel back the sticker enough to reveal the hidden screw—there’s no need to take it off entirely.

Sure, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don’t sweat it—Microsoft can’t void your warranty as long as you keep everything intact. Enjoy the process!

– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift that big sticker on the back panel. It’s hiding the second screw, just waiting to be discovered!

Tools Used

Step 3

As you tackle this repair, keep an eye on each screw and remember to return it to its original spot. This way, your console stays happy and healthy!

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew those two 7.4 mm-long screws holding the back panel in place. You’ve got this!

Step 4

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger into the crack between the back panel and the shell, just to the left side of the base.

– With a little finesse, lift the back panel to free it from those pesky locking clips.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 5

– Gently slide the flat edge of your trusty spudger into the little space between the back panel and the shell, hanging out near the right side of the base.

– Carefully lift the back panel to free it from those sneaky locking clips.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 6

– Grab that back panel at the opening you just made, then gently pull it up and away from the shell to unclip those long edges like a pro.

– When you’re putting everything back together, just give a little press along the edges of the back panel to snap it right into place.

Step 7

The back panel fits snugly into the groove at the top of the shell.

– Gently tilt the back panel upwards and give it a little tug away from the top edge of the shell to pop it free from the gap.

– Now, go ahead and remove the back panel.

Step 8

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get those screws out! Start by removing the three screws that are holding the fan snugly to the center chassis:

– One 10.5 mm pancake screw

– Two 8.8 mm screws

Step 9

Remember, always grab those cables by the connectors, not the wires! Your devices will thank you for it.

– Grab the edges of the fan cable connector with your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers, and give it a gentle tug upwards to disconnect it from the center chassis.

– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to guide the fan cable under its little cable guide on the fan housing. This way, it won’t get in the way of the back panel.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 10

When swapping out the fan, keep in mind that the new fan might not come with the plastic installation bracket. That little piece is usually attached to the fan with four T10 Torx screws. Just a heads up, it’s not shown in this guide!

– Gently slide the fan out of its cozy slot to let it go.

– When you’re putting it back, remember: the fan has a one-way ticket—so ensure that Master Chief is looking right at you!

Step 11

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge up the locking tab that’s keeping the base snug against the shell. You’ve got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 12

Keep that locking tab open while you get the base going—it’s a team effort!

Once everything’s locked in, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line will be perfectly aligned with the sides of your device. Nice and neat!

– Grab the base and give it a gentle twist to the left to free it from the shell.

– Carefully lift off the base.

– When putting it back together, align the base tabs with their holes in the shell and twist to the right until you hear that satisfying snap into the interior locking tab.

Step 13

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! You’ll need to unscrew two 8.8 mm screws that are holding the optical drive’s vibration isolator in place. One screw is hiding on the base, while the other is perched on top of the isolator. You’ve got this!

Step 14

The vibration isolator hugs the sides of the optical drive using silicone pads. To gently remove it, you might want to give it a little ‘walk’ to slide it off each side. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the optical drive’s vibration isolator to set it free.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to press the vibration isolator down snugly around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits perfectly flush with the rest of the center chassis. You’ve got this!

Step 15

When you’re working with cables, remember to give them a gentle tug by their connectors, not the wires! It’s the smart way to keep everything in tip-top shape. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty blunt tweezers and gently hold onto the edges of the optical drive power connector. Give it a little tug up to free it from the optical drive.

– Now, using your fingers, lift up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive with a smooth motion.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 16

If the drive isn’t lined up just right, our top vibration isolator won’t fit like a glove, and the disc reader will be off-kilter with the front of the console. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab the top edge of the optical drive and gently pull it out of its cozy slot in the shell. It’s time for a little extraction!

– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to line up the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the shell’s bottom. It’s like a puzzle piece fitting right in!

Step 17

Hey there! Those ribbon cables and connectors are super delicate, so take it easy when you’re opening those locking tabs and gently pull those cables. Slow and steady wins the race! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab that flat end of a spudger and give a little flip to the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– When you’re putting everything back together, just gently click that metal locking tab back into place once the cable is snug and ready. Easy peasy!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

Gently tug on the pull tab, but remember, the cable is not your friend here—leave it be!

If the USB port cable seems to be stuck to the metal chassis, give it a little warmth with an iOpener or a hair dryer. Depending on your Xbox model, you might also want to slide an opening pick underneath the cable to help break that adhesive bond.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug on that black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Step 19

Give that pull tab a nice tug, but leave the cable alone, okay?

Remember to press down on the metal tab before pulling the cable. If you skip this step, you might end up with a damaged cable or connector, and nobody wants that!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently press down on the metal tab next to the power button cable’s board connector. You’ve got this!

– With that tab pressed down, take a pair of tweezers and give the pull tab a little tug to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis. Easy peasy!

– When you’re putting everything back together, just slide the cable in and listen for that satisfying little ‘snap’ as it clicks into place. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Step 20

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those three 7.4 mm screws holding the center chassis assembly snugly to the shell. You’re doing great!

Step 21

Depending on your Xbox model, the sticky stuff might be hiding on the back of the cable. If that’s the case, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm things up a bit.

– Carefully lift the taped USB port ribbon cable off the heatsink, just like peeling a sticker off your favorite notebook.

Tools Used

Step 22

The center chassis is snugly fitted to the shell with some handy guide pegs. To lift the chassis out, just give those pegs a little nudge to slide them out of their slots. You’ve got this!

– Grab the center chassis and give it a gentle tug towards the cheerful green fan grille at the top of the shell, freeing those guide pegs from their cozy home.

– Carefully lift the center chassis assembly out to say goodbye to the shell for now.

– When you’re putting things back together, keep an eye on those ribbon cables! Make sure they don’t get squished as you guide the center chassis back into its spot in the shell.

Step 23

– Give that chassis strap a gentle nudge and unhook it from the right side of the power supply. You’re doing great!

Step 24

– Gently slide that chassis strap right over and off the power supply like a pro.

– Once you’ve got that strap off, just set the loose section aside and keep going!

Step 25

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get those screws out! Start by removing the three screws that are holding the power cable port snugly to the chassis:

– Two screws measuring 13.1 mm

– One screw measuring 35 mm

Step 26

– Gently coax the power connector out of its snug little home in the chassis. You’ve got this!

Step 27

– Gently unclip and lift the lid on the plastic guide for the power cable. You’re doing great!

Step 28

– Gently pull the power cable out from its cozy spot beneath the extra part of the cable guide.

Step 29

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew that 8.8 mm screw holding down the power supply corner cover. You’ve got this!

Step 30

Depending on your Xbox model, this cover might not be included. No worries, though!

– Gently use your fingers or grab a pair of tweezers to lift off the power supply corner cover. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 31

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to conquer! Unscrew those three 9.6 mm screws that are keeping the accessory antenna board snugly attached to the center chassis. You’ve got this!

Step 32

– Grab the antenna board and gently pull it straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put things back together, just line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and give it a nice press to reconnect. Easy peasy!