iPad 2 CDMA Camera Bracket Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Ready to give your iPad 2 CDMA a new lease on life? This guide will walk you through swapping out the camera bracket. Just a heads up: some shots were taken with the Wi-Fi version, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. But fear not! The steps are pretty much the same, except where we mention otherwise. Let's get started!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate rotates smoothly. If your iOpener gets caught, it could overheat and cause some serious trouble. Keep it spinning for a happy cooking experience!
Give your microwave a quick clean before you start—any leftover gunk on the bottom might decide to hitch a ride on your iOpener.
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep an eye on your iOpener and don't let it get too toasty—overheating can cause it to pop! Never heat it above 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, hands off—it's time to let it rest.
If the center feels too hot to handle, keep using it gently while it cools down a bit before reheating. A well-heated iOpener will stay warm and ready for about 10 minutes.
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. The iOpener is good to go when it’s just about too hot to handle comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready for action.
- As you go along, if the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.
Tools Used
Step 3
Caution! The iOpener is going to be super toasty, so handle it with care! If it gets too hot to handle, don't hesitate to grab an oven mitt.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that toasty center!
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the little tabs on the ends to keep your fingers safe.
If you don't have a microwave, no worries! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener in a pot of boiling water like a pro.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a rolling boil, then switch off the heat.
- Drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully underwater.
- Carefully fish out the warmed iOpener using tongs.
- Give it a good dry-off with a towel so it’s ready to go.
- Your iOpener is now good to use! If you need to heat it up again, just repeat: boil water, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any accidental oops!
This keeps all those sneaky glass shards in check while giving your display some solid backup when you’re prying and lifting.
- Got a cracked display? No problem! Let’s keep those shards in check and protect your fingers while you work by sticking some tape on it.
- Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over your device's display until it’s fully covered. It’s like a cozy blanket for your screen!
- Now, follow the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: if the glass starts to break more, it might keep cracking as you go. You might need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces. If it gets too tricky, remember, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be dealing with some broken glass here, it’s a good idea to pop on some safety glasses to keep those flying shards from surprising you. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it's making good contact with the surface. You want to make sure it's snug in place!
- Let the bag chill on the iPad for around 90 seconds. This helps warm things up before you start prying open the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting the opening tool’s tip wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle—just stay patient and give that plastic tool a little wiggle-waggle until it slides in smoothly.
- There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little gap is your secret entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in just enough to start widening that gap.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass—just like finding the perfect spot to start a great story.
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snug between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Slip out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You've got this!
Step 11
- As you tackle the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener another warm-up, then place it back on the bottom edge of the device. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some serious elbow grease. Take your time and be careful out there!
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking beneath the front glass, gently pull it out just a bit. No worries – using the pick this deep won't cause harm, but you might end up with a bit of adhesive goo on the LCD.
- While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, let's get started on peeling back the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad. You're doing great!
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that adhesive as you go. Keep it smooth and steady!
Tools Used
Step 13
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad while peeling off the adhesive. How long the iPad has cooled down during your work will decide if this move is needed.
- If the opening pick is feeling a bit stubborn and stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of your device. Keep at it, and it’ll continue to break through that sticky stuff with ease.
Tools Used
Step 14
- Before you dive in and pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from playing tricks and re-sticking itself.
- Give that iOpener a little reheating love, then place it on the top edge of your iPad. Let's keep things warm and cozy while we work!
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case. Since the antenna’s position is a bit tricky, take it slow and steady to avoid any accidental damage that can’t be fixed.
- Heads up! The next steps call for some serious care.
- You'll need to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.
Step 16
Be careful not to push the pick too far past the bottom right corner. You could accidentally damage the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow and steady!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding it in place. Nice and easy, no rush.
Step 17
Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Be careful around the corner where the Wi-Fi antenna is located—if the adhesive isn't released carefully, it can easily get damaged. A little patience here goes a long way!
Just a friendly tip: keep that pick snugly under the front glass—no need to yank it out entirely! Just pull it out enough so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip is still hanging out under the glass.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 18
- Now that you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way!
- Gently glide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive that's keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
- Keep in mind, the antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step helps you detach the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift off the panel, the antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heating time to just a minute max, and give it a cool-down party for at least two minutes before giving it another go!
If the adhesive along the bottom edge feels a bit chilly and stubborn, just give your iOpener another warm-up to soften it right where you’re working.
- Keep sliding the opening pick under the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out just enough to get around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared that spot.
Tools Used
Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in this area but keep it to no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Gently peel off the adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Place the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and leave it there while you work your magic.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently warm up the adhesive in that area.
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself feels chilly, give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, carefully maneuvering it around the front-facing camera bracket. A little wiggle and patience go a long way here.
- The adhesive in this section is pretty tough, so you might need to apply some muscle. Just take it slow, and keep an eye on the pick to avoid any slips that could hurt you or your iPad.
- If the pick feels stuck in the sticky mess, no worries—just roll the pick as shown in step 9 to make it glide through. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off your iPad for some easy maneuvering. But if the sticky stuff is still clinging on, just give the iOpener another little heat-up and pop it back on the left edge while you work your magic.
- Peel away the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick around the top-left corner to keep things moving smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 24
Heads up! The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When sliding the pick, ease off around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide that opening pick down the left side of your iPad, freeing the adhesive as you go along. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Just keep the pick at a shallow depth (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful down there! The digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and watch your step to avoid snipping that cable!
- With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, give a gentle nudge to release the adhesive hanging out in the bottom left corner. You've got this!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might have decided to stick around a little longer than expected. No worries! Just slide a pick under the part where the front glass is still holding on tight and gently 'cut' through that adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad, then snag it with your fingers like a pro.
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on, and use an opening pick to gently slice through any sticky spots keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad firmly by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. It's like a little dance move, but for your gadget!
- When you're putting everything back together, don't forget to give that LCD a little love with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any dust bunnies or fingerprints before sealing it up with the glass.
Step 28
- Let's get those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws out of the way so we can free the LCD from the rear case. Grab your trusty screwdriver and let's make it happen!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, and remember, it's not going anywhere! The display data cable will stay connected while you gently swing it over. Keep it cool and steady!
- The front panel ribbon cables are tucked right under the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to carefully flip the LCD over and move it aside for a moment.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it back out of the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Now, place the LCD face down on the front panel to keep it safe and out of the way.
Step 30
Gently lift the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. It’s like a little dance move—stay smooth and careful!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in red, making them super easy to spot.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and carefully lift them up.
Step 31
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the logic board shields.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.
Step 32
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its two sockets on the logic board. A smooth, steady motion is all you need!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care, and remember—there's no need to detach it from the iPad! Its cable will stay connected even while you give it a little swivel.
To get the front panel assembly off, you'll need to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. You might need to move the LCD a bit to make enough space for it.
- Gently lift the LCD from the side that's farthest from the digitizer cable and carefully flip it back like you're closing a book—smooth and easy does it!
- While you're holding the LCD up, slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out for that digitizer cable; we don't want it getting stuck on the rear case or the LCD!
- Place the LCD back into the body for safekeeping. You're doing great!
Step 34
Take care not to turn your iOpener into a hot potato during the repair! We suggest giving it a cool two minutes before you reheat it. Keep it chill!
The camera bracket is stuck to the front panel with adhesive. Warming it up gently with an iOpener is a smart move to loosen things up before you carefully peel it away.
- Heat up the iOpener just like it says in the heating section at the start of this guide.
- Set the iOpener right over the front-facing camera at the top edge of your display and let it work its magic.
Tools Used
Step 35
The camera bracket can shift about 2 mm to the right or left, depending on which way you nudge it.
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently push against the camera bracket to lift it off the adhesive holding it to the front panel. Take it slow and steady – no need to rush!
Step 36
- Gently lift the camera bracket off the front panel and set it aside. Easy does it!
