iPad 2 CDMA GPS Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 71 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the GPS antenna sticker tucked beneath the right cellular antenna assembly on your second generation iPad CDMA. Some photos show the Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a bit different, but the steps are pretty much the same for both versions unless we point out otherwise.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate spins without a hitch! If your iOpener gets jammed, it could overheat and cause some serious problems. Keep it moving and happy cooking!
Make sure to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in! A clean microwave means less chance of that pesky gunk sticking to your iOpener while you work your magic.
- Pop the iOpener right in the microwave's center to heat it up!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventures. Overheating isn't a party we want to throw, as it could lead to a burst! So, let’s keep it chill and below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener is looking a bit puffy, steer clear and give it some space.
If it's still too toasty to handle in the middle, hang tight and keep using it while it cools off a bit. A properly warmed iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
Depending on your microwave's power level, you might need a little more or less time to heat it up. The iOpener is good to go when it's just about too hot to handle comfortably.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick 30 seconds to get it warm and ready.
- If it cools down while you’re working, just give it another 30-second zap in the microwave to keep things toasty.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets pretty hot, so make sure to handle it with care. If it feels too intense, grab an oven mitt to keep things cool.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that super-hot center!
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Step 4
The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Stay safe and happy repairing!
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to give it the warmth it needs for a smooth repair.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
- Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—safety first!
- Gently submerge your iOpener in the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s all in there, getting cozy in the warmth.
- Using some tongs (no one wants a hot surprise!), carefully lift the iOpener out of the water.
- Give it a good towel dry to make sure it’s nice and ready to rock.
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs another warm-up, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak again for 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This keeps the sneaky glass shards from flying everywhere and adds some solid backup when you’re prying and lifting the display.
- If your display glass is looking a bit worse for wear, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some tape and cover that cracked glass to keep it from shattering further and to protect yourself during the repair.
- Start by laying down overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad's display until it’s fully shielded. Think of it like giving your device a cozy blanket!
- Now, let’s dive into the rest of the guide together. Just a heads up: once that glass is broken, it might decide to crack a bit more as you work. Don't worry! You might need a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the shattered pieces. And remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be handling some sharp broken glass here, we highly suggest rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing trouble.
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, pressing down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic and warm things up before you try opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle! Wiggle that plastic opening tool back and forth as needed, and you'll be making progress in no time. Remember, patience is key!
- Check out a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. That’s your secret entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and plastic bezel—just the tip, enough to nudge the gap open a bit.
Step 8
- Position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Carefully pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper beneath the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You've got this!
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and reheat your iOpener, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things nice and warm.
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Step 12
This adhesive is seriously tough stuff, so you might need to bring some muscle. Take your time and work smart!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a bit. While it’s totally safe to use the pick this deep, it might leave some sticky adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
- While you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start working on loosening the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, freeing the adhesive as you go along.
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Step 13
You might want to slide that warmed-up iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad as you start peeling away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this move depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the edge of the iPad to keep breaking that sticky seal. Keep it smooth and steady!
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Step 14
- Before you pop that first opening pick out from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide in a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to prevent the adhesive from making a sticky comeback.
- Give the iOpener another warm-up, and then place it at the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given the way it's positioned, it's super important to be gentle and careful while working on it—otherwise, you might end up causing some serious damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. Let's keep that connection strong!
- Heads up: the next few steps need you to be super careful.
- You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner—going too far could mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and nobody wants that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up the adhesive hanging out there.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out near the corner, so take it slow to avoid cutting through its adhesive!
Keep that pick in its happy place! Just slide it out a smidge so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under the front glass. You've got this!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You're almost there!
Step 18
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right by the home button—slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step safely separates the antenna from the front panel so you don’t accidentally damage it when removing the panel.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener toasty for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a little breather of at least two minutes before you heat it up again.
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give the iOpener a quick reheat to warm up the glue where you're working. Keep it cozy and make your repair a breeze!
- Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully looping it around the home button. Once you’re past the button, tuck the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to keep the adhesive coming loose smoothly.
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Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!
- Don’t forget to leave the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button. It’s your trusty sidekick for this adventure!
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help get the adhesive nice and cozy in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has chilled out too much, pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep at it. If the iOpener itself has lost its heat mojo, just give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to put a little muscle into it. Take your time and be careful to avoid any slips or surprises.
- If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the glue, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
When the adhesive is nice and warm, feel free to take off the iOpener from your iPad for some easy maneuvering. But if that sticky stuff is still holding on tight, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
- Gently peel away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and carefully slide the opening pick around the top-left corner. Keep it steady and make sure everything stays nice and neat!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you're about 2.25" (60 mm) in, stop sliding the pick. Easy does it—just a little finesse and you're good!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, peeling back that sneaky adhesive as you go. It's pretty thin along this side thanks to the digitizer hanging out. Just remember to keep that pick shallow—no more than about 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You've got this!
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad's bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to avoid accidentally snipping this little guy.
- With the opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently pry up the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You've got this!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might have decided to stick around a little longer than expected. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still hanging on. Give that adhesive a little 'snip' and you're back in business!
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it's up, use your fingers to pull it away, and you're on your way!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive still hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that might be keeping the front panel snug and secure.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You've got this!
- When it's time to put things back together, give the LCD a little TLC with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal it up with the glass.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD in place against the rear case. You've got this!
Step 29
Be gentle when handling the LCD! Don't try to detach it from the iPad—its display cable will stay connected even as you carefully rotate it.
- The front panel ribbon cables hang out beneath the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to give the LCD a little flip and tuck it out of the way for a moment.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it back like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel—easy does it!
Step 30
Make sure you're lifting the hinged flap, not the socket itself. It's the flap that moves, not the whole thing!
- Gently use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to lift the little flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable socket.
- Slide your plastic tool under the headphone jack and front camera cable to loosen the sticky adhesive holding it to the back panel.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 31
- Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are holding the headphone jack snug against the rear panel. Let's get that jack freed up!
Step 32
Hold up — don’t pull the assembly out just yet!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry the headphone jack out from its snug spot on the top edge of the iPad.
Step 33
- Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables off the rear panel, making sure to keep them intact. Take your time and don't rush—it’s all about precision.
Step 34
- Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector snug and secure.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the front camera cable loose from the headphone jack cable. You've got this!
Step 35
- Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that's connected to the headphone jack. Take your time and be careful, you got this!
Step 36
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the microphone cable connector to disconnect it. You're doing great!
Step 37
- Pop off that headphone jack from your iPad 2 like a pro!
Step 38
Make sure you're gently nudging those hinged retaining flaps up and not the sockets themselves, alright?
The retaining flaps are marked in red in the second image.
- Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the little retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets – careful does it!
Step 39
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.
Step 40
- Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two snug sockets on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 41
Handle the LCD with care as you flip it over—don't try to yank it off because its cable is still hanging on!
To get that front panel assembly out, gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. You'll need to nudge the LCD a bit to create some breathing room.
- Gently lift the LCD from its long edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable, then carefully flip it back toward the rear case—kind of like closing a book.
- While holding the LCD up, slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out for the digitizer cable so it doesn’t get caught on the rear case or LCD.
- Place the LCD back into the body to keep it safe while you work.
Step 42
To get inside the iPad, let's carefully flip the LCD screen out of its case so we can access what’s underneath.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and gently swing it open like you’re flipping a page in a book.
- Place the LCD screen face down on a clean surface—pro tip: use a soft cloth underneath to keep it scratch-free.
Step 43
Be gentle when disconnecting the connector—no need to yank it upward!
- Gently place the LCD panel next to the back cover.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully flip the display data cable lock upward.
- Gently pull the display data cable out of its connector.
Step 44
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly. Take your time and be careful—it’s like peeling a banana, but for your device!
Step 45
Watch out for those sneaky camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables while you peel off the tape! Let's keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently peel away the tape holding the front-facing camera's ribbon cable in place. Take your time, no need to rush!
Step 46
- Gently peel off the front camera from the foam adhesive holding it onto the rear panel. Take your time, we’ve got this!
Step 47
- Gently slide the front camera cable out of the groove carved into the back panel.
- Carefully lift the front facing camera away from your iPad.
Step 48
- If you spot a little piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable, go ahead and peel it off.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the dock connector cable’s connector and lift it up from its socket on the logic board—nice and easy now!
- Carefully peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel.
Step 49
- Slide the prying tool gently underneath the four wires at the end of the connector and lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board. Remember, don't try to pry from the other end of the connector, as that could damage the four solder points underneath the socket, leading to a microsolder repair. Let's keep it smooth and simple!
Step 50
Avoid pulling the cable straight up when disconnecting it—gentle wiggles win the day!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the retainer holding the upper component board cable connector in place on the logic board.
- Now, carefully pull the connector out from its socket on the logic board. Easy does it!
Step 51
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case right by the digitizer cable socket.
- Lift the logic board bracket off the rear case and set it aside.
Step 52
- Get your trusty screwdriver and carefully take out those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 53
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully lift the logic board away from the rear case. Take your time with this one!
- Remember, the logic board is stuck to the rear case with some adhesive magic; so be patient and work your way around gently to peel off the glue without causing any harm to the board.
Step 54
Hey there, just a quick heads up! Don't go trying to yank the logic board out completely yet—it's still got three antenna cables hanging on for dear life.
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the rear case, then gently tilt it towards the battery to free it up.
Step 55
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully detach the cellular data antenna cable from its socket on the communications board. No need to rush, just give it a gentle pull.
Step 56
- Unscrew the single 2.1 mm Phillips screw that’s holding the cellular data antenna cable in place on the rear case. It's a simple step, just take it slow and steady.
Step 57
Time to peel off the two tape strips holding the cellular data antenna cable in place on the rear case. Let’s get that cable free!
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to peel away the two pieces of tape.
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Step 58
- Carefully slide a plastic opening tool under the cellular data antenna to pop it off the rear case without causing any damage.
Step 59
- Carefully lift the cellular data antenna out from its cozy spot in the iPad casing.
- Gently guide the cellular data antenna cable through the channel in the rear panel, and then remove the antenna from the device like a pro.
Step 60
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry away the right antenna cable from its cozy little socket on the communications board. You're doing great!
Step 61
- Unscrew the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw holding the right cellular antenna to the back case—let’s get that antenna free!
Step 62
Alright, it's time to say goodbye to those three pieces of tape holding the right cell antenna cable to the rear case. Let's get to it!
- Grab your trusty spudger and let the tip do the heavy lifting to kick off each piece. Then, switch to the flat end and glide it smoothly to peel up the tape like a pro, ensuring no tears along the way.
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Step 63
- Carefully use a plastic opening tool to lift the antenna from the rear case, giving it just enough space to wiggle free.
- Gently lift and remove the right cellular data antenna from your iPad 2. It should come out smoothly—no wrestling required!
Step 64
- Peel off any tape that’s covering the GPS antenna ZIF connector. Let's get that connection ready to roll!
Step 65
- Gently use the spudger tip to lift the retaining tab on the ZIF connector, and pop that GPS cable free!
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Step 66
The GPS antenna is like a crafty little sticker that sits snugly over the bottom of the right cellular data antenna's compartment. As you dive into the next steps to gently coax it out, keep in mind it might decide to tear or break on you. If you're hoping to rescue the antenna, be sure to add some heat and tread carefully—it's a delicate operation!
- Place a warmed iOpener on the top edge of your iPad to gently loosen the adhesive securing the GPS antenna to the rear case.
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Step 67
- Gently slide the pointed tip of the spudger under the GPS cable from inside the antenna slot.
- Carefully pull the spudger towards the top edge of the case, guiding the cable out of the slot and away from the main body of the case.
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Step 68
Taking out the GPS antenna can be a bit of a puzzle. The technique we’ve laid out in the next steps has worked wonders for us. Just a friendly reminder: only tackle this guide if you’re swapping out the GPS antenna for a brand-new one, as messing with the old one could lead to some serious damage.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift that GPS antenna cable. It's time to peel that antenna off the rear case like a pro!
Step 69
- Slide the flat end of your spudger under the end of the GPS antenna that you've just freed up. You're doing great!
- Gently wiggle the spudger under the antenna sticker to break the adhesive that's keeping it stuck to the case. Keep it up!
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Step 70
- Keep sliding the spudger under the antenna to gently loosen it from the sticky adhesive holding it down.
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Step 71
- Now it's time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse, and you'll have your device as good as new. If you hit any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some extra help!
