iPad 2 CDMA Left Cellular Data Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the Left Cellular Data Antenna. Keep in mind, some of the images here were taken with a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from what you see in the cellular version. No worries though, the process is pretty much the same for both, except where we highlight the differences. Happy repairing!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
Before diving in, give that microwave of yours a quick clean! You wouldn't want any pesky residue from the bottom to stick to your iOpener, right? A little tidying up goes a long way!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it's the star of the show!
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Step 2
Don’t let the iOpener get too toasty! Heating it beyond 100˚C (212˚F) can make it pop—definitely not what we want.
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, give it a pass and don’t touch it.
If the center of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, keep using it while it cools down a bit before reheating. When heated right, it’ll stay warm for about 10 minutes—perfect for your repair rhythm.
Microwave wattages vary, so adjust your heating time accordingly. Your iOpener is ready when it’s just a touch too hot to handle comfortably.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and warm.
- As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool off, just give it another quick thirty-second zap in the microwave to keep things toasty.
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Step 3
Be cautious with the iOpener—it's going to be hot stuff! Handle it with care, and don't hesitate to use an oven mitt if you need to. Stay safe and keep cool!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing one of the two flat ends so you don’t burn your fingers on the hot center.
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Step 4
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Safety first, my friend!
Don't have a microwave? No worries! Just pop that iOpener into some boiling water to get it warmed up. You've got this!
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Turn up the heat and let that water boil like it’s ready for a party! Once it’s bubbling away, turn off the heat.
- Carefully lower your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a full dip and getting all nice and warm!
- Using tongs, gently lift that hot iOpener out of the water—watch out, it's toasty!
- Give your iOpener a good drying with a towel. We want it nice and dry for action!
- And there you have it! Your iOpener is all set and ready to roll! If you find it’s gone a bit chilly and needs a second round, just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers protected, and remember to treat that LCD screen with care – it deserves some love!
This step helps keep glass pieces in check and maintains the strength of the display when you're carefully prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass is cracked, it's best to take some precautions to prevent further damage and keep yourself safe during the repair. A simple way is to tape up the glass to keep it together.
- Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips across the iPad's display until it's fully covered. This will keep things neat and prevent the glass from shattering further while you work.
- Try to follow the steps in the guide as closely as possible. But, heads up, once the glass is broken, it might crack even more as you go along. You might need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the glass pieces, so be ready for that!
Step 6
Just a heads up! While you're diving into this repair adventure, you might encounter some broken glass. It's a good idea to rock some safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Safety first, fun second!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds before you try to pop open the front panel.
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Step 7
It might take a little muscle to slide that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle as needed. You've got this!
- Look closely at the upper right corner of the iPad—there's a little gap in the adhesive ring, about 2.0 inches (that's roughly 5 cm) from the top. We're going to take advantage of this tiny opening!
- Now, let's get to work! Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to widen the crack a bit. You're doing great!
Step 8
- Ensure that you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 9
- Gently tuck the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right beside it to carefully pry them apart.
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You got this!
Step 11
- While you're gently peeling off the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener a quick reheat and pop it onto the bottom edge of the iPad for a little extra warmth. It's all about that perfect grip!
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Step 12
The adhesive is super tough, so be ready to put in some muscle—but take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out just a smidge. While getting the pick in this deep won't cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
- While you're warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let's get that adhesive on the right edge of the iPad to loosen up a bit.
- Gently slide your opening pick down the edge of the iPad, coaxing the adhesive to let go as you go along.
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Step 13
You might need to slide the warmed-up iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad while peeling up that stubborn adhesive. It all comes down to how much your iPad has cooled off during the process—so keep things toasty and keep going!
- If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, don’t sweat it. Just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad, and keep at it to release the adhesive. You got this!
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Step 14
- Before you dive in and pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting cozy again.
- Time to give that iOpener a little love! Heat it up again and place it at the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given its unique positioning, it's super important to take your time and be careful – one wrong move and you could end up causing some serious damage to that Wi-Fi antenna. Let's keep things breezy and avoid any mishaps!
- Alright, it's time to take things slow and steady—these next few steps are a bit tricky. Don't rush it!
- Carefully peel back the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, but be gentle—those delicate connections on the bottom are important! Take your time and follow the steps closely.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner to avoid giving the Wi-Fi antenna an unexpected ouch!
- Gently slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break the adhesive seal. Take it slow, the glue won’t know what hit it!
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna lurking near the corner—it’s easy to nick if the adhesive gives way too quickly.
Don't pull the pick all the way out from under the front glass. Instead, gently pull it out just a bit, leaving about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still tucked underneath. This keeps things in place while you work.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive that's holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. It's a smooth move, just take your time!
Step 18
- After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna area (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that opening pick all the way in again.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected with a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step safely separates it from the front panel, so you don’t accidentally damage it when removing the panel.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener heating sessions to under a minute, and give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before firing it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just give the iOpener another quick warm-up to soften the glue where you’re working.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button. Once you've passed the home button, re-insert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm).
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in this area, but only go about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.
- Slip the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there for now.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it along the left edge of the iPad to gently warm up the adhesive there.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If it’s too chilly, give it a little reheating and you’re all set to continue!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket. Take your time, no rush!
- The adhesive here is pretty thick, so you might need to apply some muscle. Go slow and steady to avoid any accidents or, you know, iPad injuries.
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the sticky stuff, try rolling it, just like we showed in step 9. Keep it smooth and steady!
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling warm and cozy, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it's still clinging on like an overly affectionate cat, just pop the iOpener back in the heat and rest it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
- Keep peeling off the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad and carefully guide the opening pick around the top left corner. Take it slow and steady—you're doing great!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you're sliding that pick, stop around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom—trust us, it's the sweet spot!
- Gently slide your trusty opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, freeing up that adhesive as you go! It's a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer snuggling up along the whole left side. Just remember, keep that pick no deeper than about half an inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental run-ins with the digitizer. You've got this!
Step 25
Take your time with the digitizer cable, it's just hanging out about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Be gentle and cautious, and let's not accidentally cut this little guy!
- Slide the opening pick carefully under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently work it along the bottom left corner to break the adhesive. Take your time—this step’s key to getting things going smoothly!
Step 26
Some of the glue around the edges of the iPad might have decided to stick back together. If that's the case, gently slide a pick under the edge where the front glass is still hanging on and carefully slice through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then gently lift and hold it with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky glue still hanging around, and carefully slide an opening pick to slice through any adhesive keeping the front panel stuck down.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It's like giving your iPad a little stretch!
- When you're putting everything back together, make sure to give that LCD a little TLC with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air. Dust and fingerprints have no place here before you set the glass back in its home.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws holding the LCD to the back case—time to loosen those little guys!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care while moving it—don't try to yank it off the iPad just yet, since its display data cable is still hanging on as you gently swivel it aside.
- The front panel ribbon cables hide underneath the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to carefully flip the LCD over and move it out of the way for a bit.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it back like you're turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel so you can work comfortably.
Step 30
Make sure you're gently lifting the hinged retaining flap and not the socket itself. You've got this!
- Gently use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to flip up the little retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.
- Slide a plastic opening tool under the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the cable to the rear panel.
- Pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board with a steady hand.
Step 31
- Unscrew those two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are holding the headphone jack in place on the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 32
Hold up! Don’t pull the assembly out just yet.
- Gently pry the headphone jack out from its snug spot at the top edge of your iPad using a plastic opening tool.
Step 33
- Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables off the back panel. You've got this!
Step 34
- Gently peel away that pesky strip of tape that's covering the front camera cable connector. It's like a tiny treasure hunt!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the front camera cable away from the headphone jack cable. You've got this!
Step 35
- Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that's cozy with the headphone jack. You've got this!
Step 36
- Gently pry the microphone cable connector loose with the edge of a plastic opening tool. Be careful not to force it—just let the tool do its thing and separate the connector with ease.
Step 37
- Take out the headphone jack from the iPad 2. It's easier than it sounds!
Step 38
Make sure you're prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves — handle with care!
Check out the red highlights in the second picture to spot the retaining flaps—they’re the little guys holding everything in place.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge up the retaining flaps on both ZIF sockets holding the digitizer ribbon cable. Take your time, a little patience goes a long way here!
Step 39
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case—take it easy to avoid any surprises.
Step 40
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its two sockets on the logic board. Take your time and don't rush—it should come out smoothly!
Step 41
Handle the LCD with care, and don't try to pull it off the iPad just yet—it’s still attached by its cable, so keep it connected as you gently rotate it over.
To get that front panel assembly off, you'll need to carefully slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little wiggle room is required, so gently move the LCD to give yourself some space.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge that's farthest away from the digitizer cable and flip it back like you're closing a book.
- While keeping the LCD elevated, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just watch out for that sneaky digitizer cable—don't let it catch on the rear case or LCD!
- Place the LCD back into the device's body for safekeeping until you're ready for the next step.
Step 42
To get inside the iPad, we’ll need to carefully flip the LCD back out of the case. Easy does it, and you’re one step closer to the heart of the device!
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long side nearest the volume buttons and smoothly flip it out from the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean spot. It’s a good idea to put a soft cloth underneath to keep it scratch-free.
Step 43
Be gentle when disconnecting the connector; pulling it straight up might cause some trouble.
- Gently place the LCD panel beside the rear cover.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and nudge the display data cable lock upwards to unlock it.
- Carefully pull the display data cable out from its connector.
Step 44
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Step 45
Watch out for the camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables while peeling off the tape—they’re delicate little guys and don’t like rough treatment!
- Gently peel away the tape that's holding down the ribbon cable for the front-facing camera. You're doing great!
Step 46
- Gently peel the front camera away from the foam adhesive that’s sticking it to the rear panel.
Step 47
- Gently slide the front camera cable out from the groove in the back panel—think of it like freeing a little ribbon from a cozy pocket.
- Lift the front-facing camera off your iPad and set it aside carefully, like giving it a tiny break before its next adventure.
Step 48
- If you spot a piece of tape over the end of the dock connector cable, go ahead and peel it off.
- Take a plastic opening tool and gently wedge it under the dock connector cable’s connector to lift it out of the logic board socket.
- Carefully lift the dock connector ribbon cable away from the back panel.
Step 49
- Slide your trusty prying tool gently under the four wires at the end of the connector. With a little finesse, lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. Remember, avoid prying from the other end of the connector—doing so might just ruin the four solder points underneath, and then you're looking at a microsolder repair, which is no fun. So, let’s keep it smooth and easy!
Step 50
Be gentle and avoid pulling the cable straight up when disconnecting it!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and give the retainer a little nudge to pop it up. This will free the upper component board cable connector from its snug spot on the logic board.
- Now, gently pull that connector away from its cozy socket on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 51
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket. Keep track of these little guys!
- Lift the logic board bracket off the rear case and set it aside safely.
Step 52
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and unscrew those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic and communication boards in place on the back panel. Once those are off, you're one step closer to success!
Step 53
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge that logic board up from the rear case. You've got this!
- Remember, the logic board is stuck to the rear case with some adhesive love; take your time and peel it away slowly and evenly to avoid any mishaps with the board. You're doing great!
Step 54
Heads up! Don’t yank the logic board out just yet—there are still three antenna cables hanging on for the ride.
- Gently lift the logic board out from the back case, then give it a little twist toward the battery to free it up.
Step 55
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently detach the cellular data antenna cable from its socket on the communications board. Nice and easy, no rush.
Step 56
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and carefully remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips screw that’s holding the cellular data antenna cable in place on the rear case. Easy peasy!
Step 57
Alright, time to peel off the two pieces of tape that are keeping the cellular data antenna cable stuck to the rear case. Just a quick little tug, and you're one step closer!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the tip under the two pieces of tape. A little wiggle should do the trick!
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Step 58
- Carefully pop the cellular data antenna off the back case using a plastic opening tool—easy does it!
Step 59
- To put your device back together, just reverse these steps and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to get that front panel sticking like new again. If you hit a snag, no worries—you can always schedule a repair and we’ll help you out!
