iPad 2 CDMA Logic Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 52 Steps
Ready to tackle the logic board swap? Awesome! Just a heads up, this guide features a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. But don't worry—the steps are pretty much the same! Dive in, follow along, and let's get that device back in action. If you hit a bump in the road, feel free to schedule a repair for some expert help!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate is able to spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets snagged, it could overheat and potentially cause a burn. Keep it moving for a smooth operation!
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little scrub before you dive in, as any leftover mess on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair—overheating is a no-go! If it gets too hot, it could pop, and we definitely don't want that. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it's been hitting the gym and appears swollen, steer clear of it.
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before you give it another go. A nicely heated iOpener should stay warm and ready for action for about 10 minutes.
Depending on the power of your microwave, you might need to adjust the time a bit. You'll know the iOpener is just right when it's almost too hot to handle.
- Warm up the iOpener for thirty seconds. It's like giving it a cozy little spa treatment!
- As you tackle the repair, keep that iOpener toasty! When it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Repeat as needed to keep things nice and warm!
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously toasty, so handle with care. Rock an oven mitt if your fingers want a break!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to avoid the hot middle. Handle with care, it's a little toasty in there!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe and sound.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener in some boiling water to get it ready.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice warm bath.
- Get that water boiling! Once it's bubbling away, turn off the heat.
- Carefully place your iOpener in the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it's completely underwater, like it's on a mini vacation!
- Now, use some tongs to fish out that cozy iOpener from its hot tub.
- Give your iOpener a good dry with a towel—nobody likes a soggy gadget!
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth later on, just repeat the boiling water process for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it's more fragile than it looks!
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and maintain the strength of your display as you gently pry and lift it up.
- If your display glass is cracked, let's keep it from getting worse and make sure you stay safe during the repair. A quick trick: tape the glass to prevent any further damage.
- Take some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips across the iPad's display until it's completely covered. This will keep things in check while you work.
- Try to follow the rest of the guide as usual. But here's the deal—once the glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you go. You might even need to use a metal prying tool to gently lift the glass out. Don't stress, you're on the right track!
Step 6
Just a heads up, you might be dealing with some sharp glass bits during this fix, so it's a great idea to rock a pair of safety glasses to keep those little shards at bay!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pop open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Just take your time and gently wiggle the tool back and forth as needed. You've got this!
- Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little opening is your ticket in.
- Line up your plastic opening tool with the mute button. Gently slip just the tip of the tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to nudge it open a bit.
Step 8
- Make sure you're placing the tool just right—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. Give it some space, but not too much! You’ve got this.
Step 9
- Start by gently wedging the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Once it's in place, slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to the tool, like you're setting up for the perfect opening move.
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 11
- As you work on loosening the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad, go ahead and give the iOpener another zap to heat it back up, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things nice and warm.
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Step 12
The adhesive is really strong, so you might need to apply a bit more muscle than usual. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a smidge. Don’t worry, using the pick this deep won’t hurt a thing, but it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a friendly heads up!
- As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, letting it do the work of loosening that adhesive.
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Step 13
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad while loosening the adhesive. How long the device has cooled down during your work will decide if this move is necessary.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit sticky with the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the iPad's edge to keep that adhesive getting freed up. You've got this!
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, and then shift it to the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 15
Heads up! The Wi-Fi antenna is screwed onto the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case and connected by a cable. Since it’s positioned just so, take your time and handle it gently to avoid causing any permanent damage.
- Alright, folks, it's time to channel your inner repair ninja! The next few steps are going to require a bit of finesse, so let's stay sharp.
- You'll need to carefully peel back the adhesive that's holding the antenna fast to the front panel. Just take your time and be gentle, as those delicate connections to the bottom of the iPad are counting on you. Follow these steps closely, and you've got this!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don't slide that pick too far down on the bottom right corner. It's a sneaky spot that could mess with your Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it safe and sound!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding there.
Step 17
Take it easy while you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is cozy near the corner, and one wrong move could leave it feeling a little too detached. So, be gentle and steady, and all will be well!
Keep the pick snugly under the front glass—just a smidge will do! Pull it out a tad, but leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still tucked away under there. You're doing great!
- Gently glide the edge of your opening pick along the bottom of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive stuck to the Wi-Fi antenna. You've got this!
Step 18
- After you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, give the pick a little slide to the right to break free the adhesive that's keeping the Wi-Fi antenna glued to the front glass.
- The antenna is held down at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial for detaching the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift off that panel, you won't accidentally cause any harm to the antenna.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener cozy! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you warm it up again.
If the adhesive near the bottom edge has cooled off too much, just pop the iOpener back on to warm it up again before you continue working.
- Gently work your way along the bottom of the iPad, slowly releasing the adhesive. Pull the opening pick out just enough to get around the home button, then carefully reinsert it about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you're past that button. Patience is key here, so take your time!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in this area, but keep it to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm). We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound, just like a cozy blanket on a chilly night!
- Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
- Once you're in there, slide the opening pick gently under the front glass near the home button and leave it there. It's your new best friend!
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to soften that sticky adhesive and get things moving.
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Step 22
If your iOpener has cooled down too much, just swap it out along the top edge and keep going. No worries if it’s not warm enough—just reheat it and you’re back on track!
- Start by sliding the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad. Gently pull it out a little to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty strong, so don't be shy about using some extra force. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could hurt you or your iPad.
- If the pick feels stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it like shown in step 9 to help it glide through.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels nicely warmed up, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still a bit stubborn and sticky, just heat the iOpener again and keep it on the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then smoothly slide your opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Chill out and stop sliding that pick when you get to around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You've got this!
- Carefully slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to peel back the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow, no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch), to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.
Step 25
The digitizer cable is hanging out just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Handle with care here—one wrong move and that cable might not be so lucky. Take it slow and steady!
- With the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently slide it along to loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to play sticky again. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the part of the front glass that’s still holding on and carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Take one of those trusty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it's loose, grab it with your fingers and pull it away carefully. You've got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be hanging around! Use an opening pick to slice through any stubborn adhesive keeping the front panel in place. You've got this!
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. Take it slow, no need to rush here.
- When putting everything back together, take a moment to give the LCD a quick wipe with a microfiber cloth and blast away any dust or fingerprints with some compressed air before sealing it all up again.
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips #0 screwdriver and gently remove the four 2.0 mm screws holding the LCD onto the back case—think of it as freeing your screen from its little cozy home!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care and don’t try to yank it off the iPad—its display data cable is still hanging out while you swing it over.
- The front panel ribbon cables are nestled underneath the LCD. To reach them, you'll want to gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and smoothly flip it out of the rear case—just like flipping a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel, ready for the next steps.
Step 30
Make sure you're lifting the hinged retaining flap itself, not the socket — we want to be gentle with the socket!
- Gently use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to flip up the little retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.
- Slide a plastic opening tool under the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to loosen it from the adhesive holding it to the rear panel.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 31
- Unscrew the two tiny 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are holding the headphone jack in place on the back panel—easy peasy, just keep track of them!
Step 32
Hold off on removing the assembly just yet! Take a breath and let's make sure everything is set before you dive in.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the headphone jack out from its cozy little spot at the top edge of the iPad. You got this!
Step 33
- Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the back panel, taking care not to rush this part.
Step 34
- Gently peel back the tape that's shielding the front camera cable connector.
- Slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the front camera cable and carefully pop it off from the headphone jack cable.
Step 35
- Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that connects to the headphone jack. Take your time with this step; it's all about that delicate touch!
Step 36
- Gently pry up the microphone cable connector using the edge of a plastic opening tool to unplug it.
Step 37
- Carefully pop out the headphone jack from the iPad 2 and set it aside.
Step 38
Make sure you’re gently prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves—handle with care!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in red. They're your trusty guides for this step!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently nudge those little retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets to flip them up. You're doing great!
Step 39
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable and slowly lift it off the shields on the logic board. Take your time, it's a delicate dance!
- Carefully coax the digitizer cable away from the adhesive that's holding it to the side of the rear case. A little patience goes a long way!
Step 40
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from both sockets on the logic board—like unplugging a tiny, delicate plug with care.
Step 41
Handle the LCD with care and don’t try to yank it off the iPad—its cable is still hanging out, so just gently swing it open instead.
To slide out the front panel assembly, gently wiggle the ribbon cable free between the case and the LCD. Shift the LCD just enough to make some breathing room and keep things smooth.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge that’s farthest away from the digitizer cable, then gently flip it back toward the rear case—kind of like closing a book.
- While holding up the LCD, slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out for the digitizer cable so it doesn’t get caught on the rear case or the LCD.
- Place the LCD back into the body somewhere safe while you continue working.
Step 42
To dive into the iPad's inner workings, we first need to carefully flip the LCD away from the case.
- Carefully lift the LCD from its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. It’s a good idea to rest it on a soft cloth to keep it scratch-free.
Step 43
Avoid pulling the connector upwards when disconnecting it from the socket. A gentle, straight pull is all it needs!
- Gently place the LCD right next to the rear panel, like they're best buddies.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and give the display data cable lock a little lift upwards.
- Carefully wiggle the display data cable out of its cozy socket.
Step 44
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly. You've got this!
Step 45
- Grab a plastic opening tool to gently lift that tape hiding the end of the dock connector cable.
- Use the edge of your plastic tool to carefully pop the dock connector cable's plug out of its socket on the logic board—nice and easy does it.
- Slowly peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel, like you're revealing a secret.
Step 46
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its spot on the logic board—careful does it!
Step 47
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case near the digitizer cable socket.
- Lift the logic board bracket off the rear case and set it aside.
Step 48
Remember, when you're disconnecting that cable, keep it level and don't pull it upwards!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retainer to flip it up and free the control board cable connector from its snug spot on the logic board.
- Carefully pull the connector straight away from its socket on the logic board to disconnect it.
Step 49
- Unscrew the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic and communications boards onto the rear panel. Keep them safe—they’re the little anchors keeping everything in place!
Step 50
Be careful not to raise the logic board too high from the back case. Those antennas are still hanging on, and we wouldn't want to leave them behind!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently work the edge underneath the logic board. Give it a little nudge to loosen it from the adhesive that's holding it to the rear case.
Step 51
- Gently raise the top of the logic board and unplug the two antennas on the left side.
- Swing the logic board towards the center of the iPad and disconnect the final antenna located at the top of the logic board.
- Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna situated at the bottom of the logic board.
Step 52
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the iPad 2.
