iPad 2 CDMA Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the rear facing camera. Some parts were filmed using a Wi-Fi model, so the inside might look a bit different from the cellular version. Don’t worry—the steps work the same for both models unless we call out a difference.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep an eye on it!
It's a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in! Any stubborn residue hanging out on the bottom could end up on your iOpener, and we definitely want to avoid that mess.
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and give it a warm-up. A little heat goes a long way!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on your iOpener’s temperature—overheating it can make it pop like a balloon! Don’t heat it past 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, don’t touch it—give it some space.
If the center of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, keep it warm while you wait for it to cool down a bit before giving it another heat. When heated just right, it should stay nice and warm for about 10 minutes.
The amount of time you'll need to heat up your iOpener depends on the wattage of your microwave. As a general rule, it's ready when it feels just barely too hot to touch.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool off, just zap it again in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the heat going.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle it with care. Grab an oven mitt if you want to keep those fingers safe and sound.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of the sizzling hot center. Safety first, right?
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener by placing it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat so it doesn't keep cooking.
- Pop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to fish the warmed iOpener out of the water—hot stuff!
- Dry it off thoroughly with a towel so it’s ready to work its magic.
- Your iOpener is now good to go! If it cools down before you’re done, just repeat the heating process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on some safety glasses to keep those peepers protected. And just a heads up, take extra care around that LCD screen – it's a delicate one.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check while adding some solid support when you're prying and lifting the display.
- If your display glass is cracked, it's a good idea to prevent any further damage and keep things safe by taping over the cracks before you dive in.
- Cover the entire screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape to hold everything in place.
- Now, follow the guide step by step. Just a heads-up: once that glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you go along. You might even need a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass, but don’t worry, you've got this!
Step 6
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that while you're tackling this task, you might encounter some broken glass. To keep your peepers safe from any flying bits, we highly suggest rocking a pair of safety glasses. Better safe than sorry, right?
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of your trusty opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Just take your time and stay cool, gently wiggling the plastic tool back and forth as needed.
- Check out the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring up in the upper right corner—it's about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your secret entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slip in the very tip—enough to nudge the crack open a bit.
Step 8
- Carefully slide the tool into the right spot—right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass panel.
Step 9
- Carefully tuck the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right alongside it to gently work the gap open.
Step 10
- Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch down. You've got this!
Step 11
- As you work on loosening the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it on the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 12
The adhesive is pretty solid, so you might need to put a little muscle into it. Take your time and be careful!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick sneaking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back a bit. Going in this deep with the pick won’t cause any damage, but it might leave some adhesive smudges on the LCD.
- While the iOpener works its magic on the bottom edge, start peeling the adhesive off the right side of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad's edge, letting it break free from the adhesive as you go.
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Step 13
You might find it handy to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you loosen up the adhesive. This really depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been busy working on it.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit too cozy in the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad. Keep going, and you'll be freeing that sticky stuff in no time!
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Step 14
- Before you take out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This will keep that sticky adhesive from coming back to haunt you.
- Give the iOpener another heat-up session, and then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Given how the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it's super important to handle it carefully to avoid any permanent damage. Let's keep it safe and sound!
- Heads up! The next steps call for some serious care.
- You'll need to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile connections attaching it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.
Step 16
Take it easy and don't slide the pick too far past the bottom right corner. You could accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don't want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to release the adhesive. Take your time; this part can be a little sticky, but you'll have it free in no time!
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep your eyes peeled! The Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out near the corner, and if we’re not careful, it might just say goodbye if the adhesive gets a little too feisty. Let’s take it slow and steady!
When you're working with the front glass, be sure not to yank the pick all the way out. Just gently pull it back a bit so that around 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked under the glass. Patience here is key!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, carefully cutting through the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. Easy does it!
Step 18
- Now that you're past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, or right by the home button), slide the opening pick back in all the way to its full depth.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to release the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is held in place at the bottom of the iPad by screws and a cable. By detaching it here, you're ensuring the antenna stays safe and sound while removing the front panel. No need to worry about damaging it!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heat game strong, but don't overdo it! Heat it for just a minute, then give it a cool two-minute break before the next round.
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, simply give the iOpener another go to warm up the adhesive in the area you're working on. A little heat goes a long way!
- Keep moving that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to wrap around the home button, then pop it back in, going about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you're past the home button. You've got this!
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Step 20
When working on an iPad 4, be sure to insert the pick no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep in this area to keep the home button ribbon cable safe and sound. A little caution goes a long way!
- Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it's all free! You're doing great!
- Slide the opening pick in and leave it snugly resting under the front glass by the home button. It's like giving your iPad a little hug!
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a little warmth, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help melt the adhesive in that area and make things a whole lot easier.
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Step 22
If your adhesive has cooled down too much, just swap out that iOpener along the top edge and keep going. And if your iOpener feels a bit chilly, give it a quick reheat and get back to work!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is no joke—it's tough! So take your time and apply some muscle, but be super careful not to slip and cause any damage to yourself or your iPad.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a 'roll' just like we showed you in step 9.
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Step 23
Once the adhesive feels nice and warm, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for a bit of ease. But if that sticky stuff is still clinging on, just heat up the iOpener again and rest it on the left edge while you keep going.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. When sliding the pick in, pause once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to avoid any surprises.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down the left edge of the iPad, gently loosening the adhesive as you move. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow, no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch), to avoid any unwanted digitizer drama.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the base of the iPad. Take it slow and steady to avoid slicing through this little guy.
- With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You got this!
Step 26
Some of the adhesive around the edge of the iPad might have decided to stick back down. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding tight and carefully "cut" through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once you've got a little lift, use your fingers to give it a friendly tug!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive remnants, and use an opening pick to gently slice through any glue still holding the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. Keep it steady—no sudden moves!
- Before putting everything back together, give the LCD a quick clean with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe off any dust or fingerprints. A little fresh air goes a long way!
Step 28
- Unscrew those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD to the rear case. You've got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care as you lift it—don’t try to yank it off just yet since its display data cable is still holding on while you swivel it open.
- The front panel ribbon cables are tucked just beneath the LCD. To get to them, you'll want to carefully flip the LCD over and move it aside for a bit.
- Grab the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and gently swing it open like you're turning a book's page.
- Place the LCD face down onto the front panel, giving yourself clear access to those cables.
Step 30
- Gently peel back the rubber cover from the metal camera retainer and take it off the iPad 2 with care.
Step 31
Just a friendly reminder: make sure that the tiny thermal pad is snugly in place on the metal retaining clip, just like you see in the third picture, when you're swapping out that rear camera.
If the camera comes off attached to the retaining clip, no stress! Just carefully separate the camera from the clip before putting it back, so you’re sure the connector lines up perfectly.
- Let's get started by taking out these two screws:
- Next, gently lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its cozy spot in the rear panel.
- One 3.3 mm Phillips screw
- One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
Step 32
- Now that you've skillfully put everything back together, just retrace your steps in reverse and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to snugly reattach that front panel. You've got this! And remember, if you run into any hiccups along the way, feel free to schedule a repair.
