iPad 2 CDMA Right Cellular Data Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 63 Steps
Ready to swap out the right cellular data antenna on your second generation iPad 2 CDMA? This guide has got you covered! Some pictures come from the Wi-Fi version, so the inside might look a bit different than your cellular model, but don’t worry—the steps are the same unless we say otherwise.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins with ease. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and start to burn. Keep it spinning smooth for a safe and effective cooking experience!
It's a great idea to give your microwave a little clean-up before diving in, as any leftover gunk on the bottom could become best buddies with your iOpener.
- Center the iOpener in the microwave like it's the star of the show.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on your iOpener so it doesn't get too hot — overheating might make it pop like a balloon. Never crank the heat above 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks swollen, don’t even think about touching it!
If it’s still too toasty in the middle to handle, keep using it while it cools down a bit before reheating. When heated right, your iOpener should stay warm and cozy for up to 10 minutes.
Depending on your microwave's wattage, you might need to adjust the time a bit. The iOpener is good to go when it feels just a tad too hot to handle. Stay safe and keep it comfy!
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds. Give it a quick spin, and you're good to go!
- As you keep working your repair magic, don’t forget to reheat the iOpener every now and then. Just toss it back in the microwave for another 30 seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets super hot, so handle with care! If it's too toasty for your hands, grab an oven mitt and keep those fingers safe.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot middle.
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Step 4
The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it by the tabs at the ends. No need to burn your fingers!
No microwave? No problem! Just pop that iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up. You've got this!
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
- Heat that water up until it's boiling, then turn off the heat. You're almost there!
- Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged and enjoying its little spa moment.
- Using tongs (safety first!), lift the warm iOpener out of the water.
- Give your iOpener a good towel-dry. We want it to shine!
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to go! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the water bath process. Boil it, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those eyes safe, and handle the LCD screen gently—it's delicate stuff!
This will help keep those pesky glass shards under control and ensure the display stays nice and sturdy while you're prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass first.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work, so be ready to carefully scoop out the pieces with a metal prying tool.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be handling some shattered glass here, it's a smart move to pop on some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from becoming unwanted souvenirs.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it hugs the surface nicely for maximum heat transfer.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds before you try to pop open the front panel.
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Step 7
You might need to give it a little extra oomph to slide that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle back and forth as needed. You've got this!
- There's a tiny gap in the upper right corner of the iPad's adhesive ring—about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This is your entry point, so let's take advantage of it.
- Position your tool near the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the small gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack is all it takes.
Step 8
- Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- Gently tuck the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to start your smooth move.
Step 10
- Slide the plastic opening tool out from the iPad, then gently nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch.
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat love and place it back at the bottom edge of the iPad. You're doing great!
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Step 12
This adhesive is tough stuff—get ready to put in some serious muscle, but take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick tucked under the front glass, gently pull it out just a smidge. Going this deep with the pick won’t cause any harm, but it might spread some adhesive gunk onto the LCD.
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the iPad’s right side.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, peeling away the adhesive bit by bit.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might find it helpful to reposition the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little maneuver might depend on how long the iPad has been chilling while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick gets a bit too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep freeing that sticky stuff up.
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to get things ready for the next step.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna sits snugly at the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned just so, take your time and handle it gently—one wrong move and this little guy might call it quits for good.
- Alright, folks, it's time to put on your superhero capes and proceed with some serious caution in the next few steps.
- You'll need to carefully free the adhesive that's holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember to be gentle and avoid any mishaps with those delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Stay focused and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don't slide that pick too far into the bottom right corner. You wouldn't want to accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, right? Keep it safe and sound!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, carefully freeing the adhesive as you go.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out near the corner — so be gentle to avoid accidentally cutting its connection when loosening the adhesive.
Just gently slide the pick out from beneath the front glass without taking it all the way out; leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked under there.
- Gently slide the opening pick’s tip along the iPad’s bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna—easy does it!
Step 18
- Now that you've danced past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or cozy right next to the home button), slide that opening pick in all the way.
- Gently glide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive that's holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass.
- Remember, the antenna is hanging out at the bottom of the iPad, secured by screws and a cable. This step is crucial for disconnecting the antenna from the front panel, making sure it stays safe and sound when you lift off the panel.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener heating sessions short—no more than a minute each time—and give it a couple of minutes to chill out before the next round.
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give that iOpener a quick reheat to cozy up the adhesive where you're working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, sliding the opening pick under just enough to loop around the home button. Once you've passed the button, carefully reinsert it about half an inch (10 mm) deeper to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide that pick in, but only up to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this spot. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it's fully released.
- Now, slide that opening pick snugly underneath the front glass close to the home button and leave it in place.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently warm up the adhesive in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep at it. If the iOpener itself has chilled out too much, just give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty intense, so you might need to apply some elbow grease. Take it slow and steady—no need to rush and risk a mishap with your iPad or yourself!
- If the pick seems to be getting stuck in the sticky stuff, just give it a little 'roll' like we showed you in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for easier handling. But if it’s still sticking like glue, just heat it up again and rest it on the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. Stop sliding that pick when you're around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You've got this!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up: the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid giving the digitizer a not-so-fun poke.
Step 25
The digitizer cable is super close to the bottom of the iPad—only about 1 inch (25 mm) away. Go slow and steady here to avoid cutting this cable. Patience is key!
- Take the opening pick that’s already tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently slide it to loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
The adhesive along the edges of the iPad might have reattached itself. If that's the case, gently slide a pick under the edge where the front glass is still stuck, and carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, use your fingers to hold it in place like a pro!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive still hanging on, and use an opening pick to carefully slice through any glue holding the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. Take it slow, it’ll come right off!
- When you're putting everything back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice little clean—wipe away any dust or fingerprints before you pop the glass back in place.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws holding the LCD onto the rear case. Keep these little guys safe!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care—don’t try to yank it off just yet! It’s still hooked up by the display data cable as you gently flip it over.
- The front panel ribbon cables are tucked under the LCD. To get to them, you'll want to gently flip the LCD over and out of the way for a moment.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it back like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel so you can access those cables with ease.
Step 30
Just a heads-up! Pry gently on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. It's a delicate dance—go slow and steady!
- Gently slide the flat end of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flap of the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket, and pop it up like you're lifting the lid of a treasure chest.
- Carefully slide the plastic opening tool under the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to loosen it from the adhesive that's holding it in place on the rear panel.
- Now, give the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable a smooth, straight pull from its socket on the logic board, like you're pulling a card from a deck. Done!
Step 31
- Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack onto the back panel—time to get that jack loose!
Step 32
Hold off on removing the assembly for now. Let’s take it one step at a time!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently wiggle it to nudge the headphone jack out of its cozy spot at the top edge of your iPad. It's like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Hey, time to come out!'
Step 33
- Gently lift those front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 34
- Gently peel away the tape that's keeping the front camera cable connector cozy and secure.
- With the finesse of a ninja, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gracefully disconnect the front camera cable from the headphone jack cable.
Step 35
- Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable connected to the headphone jack. Take your time and be careful; we've got this!
Step 36
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently wiggle it to disconnect that microphone cable connector. You've got this!
Step 37
- Pop out the headphone jack from the iPad 2 with ease! You've got this!
Step 38
Make sure you're gently levering the hinged retaining flaps and not twisting the sockets themselves—handle with care!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in red, making them super easy to spot!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. A little patience goes a long way here!
Step 39
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.
Step 40
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its two sockets on the logic board with a steady hand.
Step 41
Handle the LCD with care when moving it around. Don’t try to pull it out just yet – the cable will stay attached while you gently rotate it over.
To remove the front panel assembly, you'll need to carefully slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little maneuvering of the LCD will help create some space to make it easier.
- Gently lift the LCD from the long edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable, and flip it towards the rear case like you're closing a book—smooth and easy does it!
- While keeping the LCD elevated, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Remember to watch out for that sneaky digitizer cable; we don't want it getting caught on the rear case or the LCD.
- Now, place the LCD back into the body for safe keeping. It's like tucking it in for a little nap!
Step 42
To get inside the iPad, let’s carefully flip the LCD out of its case so we can see what’s going on underneath.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book!
- Now, carefully place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth can be your best friend here to keep it scratch-free.
Step 43
Avoid yanking the connector up when you're disconnecting it from its socket. Keep it cool and steady for a smooth exit!
- Gently place the LCD next to the back panel, making sure it's safe and snug.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully lift the display data cable lock upwards, just like peeling a sticker off a new gadget.
- Now, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket—nice and steady, like pulling out a puzzle piece without losing the edges.
Step 44
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly like you're peeling a banana – slow and steady wins the race!
Step 45
Watch out for those delicate camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables while you peel off the tape. They're like the shy friends at a party—handle with care!
- Peel off the tape that's holding down the front-facing camera's ribbon cable. You're doing great!
Step 46
- Gently lift the front camera away from the foam adhesive that's holding it snugly against the rear panel.
Step 47
- Gently slide the front facing camera cable out from its slot carved into the back panel.
- Carefully take the front facing camera off your iPad.
Step 48
- First things first, if there's a piece of tape blocking the dock connector cable, go ahead and peel it off. No one likes tape getting in the way!
- Next up, grab a plastic opening tool and gently nudge that dock connector cable's connector up from its cozy little home on the logic board. Easy does it!
- Now, it's time to carefully peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 49
- Slide the prying tool under the four wires at the end of the connector and gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board. Remember, avoid prying from the opposite end, as that could damage the four solder points underneath the socket, leading to a microsolder repair. Let's keep everything intact!
Step 50
Avoid pulling the cable straight up when disconnecting it—gentle does it!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently flip up the little retainer holding the upper component board cable connector in place on the logic board.
- Carefully pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board.
Step 51
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case right by the digitizer cable socket.
- Lift the logic board bracket off the rear case and set it aside.
Step 52
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and carefully remove the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel.
Step 53
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the logic board away from the rear case. Take your time with this part!
- The logic board is stuck to the rear case with some adhesive, so be sure to work carefully and evenly to separate it without causing any damage. You've got this!
Step 54
Hold up! Don't go yanking out the logic board just yet—it's still connected by three antenna cables. Handle with care!
- Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and give it a little twist towards the battery to create some working space.
Step 55
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry the cellular data antenna cable away from its cozy spot on the communications board. You're doing great!
Step 56
- Unscrew that lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw holding the cellular data antenna cable to the rear case. You've got this!
Step 57
Time to say goodbye to those two pieces of tape holding the cellular data antenna cable to the rear case! Let's get that cable free and ready for action.
- Gently pry up the two pieces of tape using the tip of your spudger—think of it as a tiny ninja tool sneaking them off!
Tools Used
Step 58
- Carefully pop the cellular data antenna loose from the back case using a plastic opening tool—easy does it!
Step 59
- Carefully lift the cellular data antenna out of its cozy little spot in the iPad casing.
- Gently guide the antenna cable through the rear panel's channel, and pop the antenna out of the device.
Step 60
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently unplug the right antenna cable from its spot on the communications board. Easy does it!
Step 61
- Unscrew the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw holding the right cellular antenna snugly against the rear case.
Step 62
Time to say goodbye to those pesky pieces of tape holding down the right cell antenna cable! Carefully peel away the three strips securing it to the rear case and let’s keep this repair party rolling!
- Grab a spudger and use the tip to gently lift the edges of the tape. Once you’ve got a good grip, switch to the flat end and carefully peel it off without any tears. Easy does it!
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Step 63
- Now that you've successfully reassembled your device, just retrace your steps and follow the directions in reverse. Don't forget to use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to stick that front panel back on. If you find yourself in a jam, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help!
