iPad 2 CDMA Speaker Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 56 Steps
Get ready to swap out that speaker assembly! While some of the shots in this guide feature the Wi-Fi model, don't worry—the inside of your cellular model may look a tad different, but the steps are a breeze for both! Just follow along and remember, if you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure the plate has the freedom to spin like it’s at a dance party! If your iOpener gets stuck, it might end up overheating and causing some serious trouble. Let's keep it cool and groovy!
It's a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. You wouldn't want any sticky surprises on the bottom messing with your iOpener, right?
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave and let it warm up like a cozy blanket for your gadget!
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We don't want it getting too hot and causing a scene. Remember, no heating over 100˚C (212˚F) – safety first!
If your iOpener looks like it's been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, just steer clear of it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still too hot to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a little more before you give it another go. A well-heated iOpener should feel nice and warm for about 10 minutes!
Microwave power varies, so you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. Your iOpener is ready to rock when it feels just a touch too hot to handle.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work, if the iOpener cools down, just zap it in the microwave again for thirty more seconds to keep things warm and gooey.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so handle with care. Wearing an oven mitt is a smart move to keep those fingers safe.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its two flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle to keep your fingers safe and sound.
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super toasty, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just grab a pot of boiling water and let your iOpener get cozy in there to warm up.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.
- Pop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully underwater.
- Use some tongs to carefully fish out the warmed-up iOpener.
- Give it a good dry with a towel so it’s ready to go.
- Your iOpener is all set! If it cools down before you're done, just repeat the boiling and soaking steps to warm it up again.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care – we don’t want any cracks in the fun!
This will help keep glass shards in check and maintain the structure while you work on prying and lifting the display. No surprises here—just keeping things neat and steady.
- If your display glass is cracked, make sure to keep things from getting worse and protect yourself while working by taping over the glass.
- Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just keep in mind, once the glass is cracked, it’s probably going to keep cracking as you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces of glass.
Step 6
Heads up! You might run into some broken glass while working on this, so grab those safety glasses and protect your eyes from any unexpected shards. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it's nice and snug so they can get cozy together.
- Give the bag a little time to work its magic—let it sit on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening up the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Stay cool, be patient, and gently wiggle the tool back and forth until it slides in nicely.
- Look closely at the upper right corner of your iPad—there's a sneaky little gap in the adhesive ring, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little flaw!
- Now, let’s get precise! Line your tool up with the mute button and gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip, enough to give that crack a little encouragement to widen.
Step 8
- Position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- Wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to gently work things apart.
Step 10
- Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch or so. You're doing great!
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener another round in the heat department, and then pop it back onto the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so you might need some serious muscle—just take it slow and steady!
If you spot the opening pick's tip peeking under the front glass, give it a little pull. Don’t worry, it’s safe to work this deep, but just know you might end up with a bit of adhesive residue on your LCD. Nothing a little clean-up won’t fix!
- While you're warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let's tackle the right edge of the iPad and start loosening that adhesive.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go. You're doing great!
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Step 13
You might want to slide that heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad as you peel off the adhesive. Whether you need to do this really depends on how long your iPad has been cooling while you were busy working your magic.
- If the opening pick gets caught on the adhesive, gently 'roll' the pick along the side of the iPad, letting it do its job and slowly release the adhesive.
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Step 14
- Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again, then move it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm.
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Given the tricky position of the Wi-Fi antenna, it's super important to take your time and handle it delicately to avoid any accidental damage that could be a real bummer.
- Alright, folks, it's time to tread lightly! The next few steps need your utmost attention.
- You'll be carefully peeling away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while ensuring the delicate connections to the bottom of the iPad stay safe and sound. So, let’s take it step by step and keep those fingers nimble!
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner — going further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and nobody wants that!
- Carefully slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen that sticky adhesive holding things together.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner, and if the adhesive gets too wild, it might just want to part ways. So, be gentle and take your time!
Keep the pick tucked just a tiny bit under the front glass—about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip should stay put while you gently pull it out. No need to yank it all the way out!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Easy does it!
Step 18
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right near the home button—slide your opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently glide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna against the front glass.
- Keep in mind, the antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step lets you safely separate the antenna from the front panel so it stays intact when you peel the panel away.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener heating sessions to under a minute, and give it a chill-out break of at least two minutes before firing it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge is feeling a bit too chilly, just give the iOpener another quick warm-up to soften things back up where you’re working.
- Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out just enough to curve around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared the button.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in just about 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this spot. This way, you’ll keep the home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep peeling the adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.
- Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass close to the home button to keep things steady.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat and loosen that stubborn adhesive.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool for comfort, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on working your magic. And if that iOpener has lost its heat, no worries—just give it another round of warmth.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is quite stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time, and be extra careful not to slip and accidentally hurt yourself or your iPad.
- If the opening pick feels like it's stuck in the adhesive, try 'rolling' the pick as illustrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling warm enough, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for some easier handling. But if it's still a bit too sticky for comfort, just give the iOpener another heat-up and lay it on the left edge while you get to work.
- Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable sits about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom edge of the iPad. When you're sliding your pick, ease off once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the iPad's left edge to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive is super thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Be super careful down there! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the base of the iPad. Take your time and tread lightly, so you don’t accidentally snip this little guy.
- Slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive near the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes, the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to play sticky again. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the part of the front glass that’s still holding on and carefully slice through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive hanging around, and gently slide an opening pick to slice through any glue still keeping the front panel stuck down.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give that front glass a little twist away from the device. You've got this!
- When putting everything back together, don't forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you set the glass back in place. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD in place on the rear case.
Step 29
Take it easy when moving the LCD. Don't try to fully remove it from the iPad just yet—its display data cable will stay connected while you're rotating it over. Keep it gentle, and you're good to go!
- The front panel ribbon cables are tucked under the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to carefully flip the LCD over and out of the way for a moment.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it back, like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel to keep it safe while you work.
Step 30
Make sure you're lifting those hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. You've got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in red to help you spot them easily.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and flip them up with care.
Step 31
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Carefully peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.
Step 32
- Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its two logic board sockets. You got this!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care, and remember—don't try to detach it from the iPad! Its cable is still hanging out while you give it a little twist.
To take off the front panel assembly, you’ll need to slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. You might have to nudge the LCD a bit to make enough space for it. Take your time, it’s all about creating that little extra room for the cable to slide out smoothly.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable and flip it back toward the rear case—just like you're closing a book after reading your favorite chapter!
- While keeping the LCD lifted, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out for that digitizer cable; we don't want it getting caught on the rear case or LCD!
- Place the LCD back into the body for a little time out while you work on the rest.
Step 34
To dive into the heart of the iPad, we first need to gently lift the LCD out of its cozy home in the case.
- Gently lift the LCD from its edge nearest to the volume buttons, and with a smooth motion, flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in a book.
- Carefully place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath is a great idea to keep it scratch-free.
Step 35
Be sure to gently slide the connector out instead of yanking it upwards from its socket. You've got this!
- Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel, making sure it’s safe and sound.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully lift the display data cable lock upwards—it's like popping a lid off a jar, but gentler.
- Now, just pull the display data cable out of its socket, nice and steady.
Step 36
- Carefully lift the LCD assembly off the rear panel assembly, like peeling a sticker from a notebook. Take your time, no need to rush.
Step 37
- Grab a plastic opening tool and use it to gently lift that little piece of tape off the dock connector cable. Easy does it!
- Take the edge of your plastic opening tool and carefully wiggle the dock connector out of its socket on the logic board. A little nudge, and it should pop right out.
- Peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel. Don't rush—just take it nice and slow!
Step 38
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its spot on the logic board—easy does it!
Step 39
- First things first, let's get those pesky little 2.1 mm Phillips screws out of the way! There are two of them holding the logic board bracket snugly to the rear case, right next to that digitizer cable socket. Grab your screwdriver and unscrew them!
- Once those screws are off, you can gently lift the logic board bracket away from the rear case. Easy peasy!
Step 40
Avoid pulling the cable straight up when disconnecting it—gentle does it!
- Take your trusty plastic opening tool and gently wedge it under the retainer that's holding the control board cable connector. A little flip and that connector is free!
- Now, just give the connector a gentle pull to release it from the logic board socket. Easy as pie!
Step 41
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and remove those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic and communications boards to the back panel. Just a few turns and you'll be one step closer to your goal!
Step 42
Careful! Don’t lift the logic board too high off the back case—those antennas are still hanging out and connected.
- Take your trusty plastic opening tool and gently work it around the edges to lift the logic board off the adhesive that's holding it down. Easy does it—no need for force, just a little patience and finesse!
Step 43
- Gently raise the top of the logic board and unplug the two antennas on the left side.
- Twist the logic board towards the center of the iPad and detach the final antenna located at the top.
- Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna positioned at the bottom of the logic board.
Step 44
- Gently lift out the logic board from the iPad 2. Remember to be careful and take your time; you've got this!
Step 45
Heads up: Don’t let the iOpener get too hot! Give it at least two minutes to cool down before heating it again, and never zap it in the microwave for more than a minute. Keep it chill and steady!
If the iOpener loses its heat mojo between uses, just pop it back in the microwave for another minute to bring it back to life.
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick minute to get it all toasty.
- Once it’s nice and warm, place the iOpener on the back of your iPad, just to the right of center (that’s the side away from the rear camera). Let it chill there for a good 90 seconds to give that battery adhesive a chance to loosen up.
- Next, slide the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let it hang out there for another 90 seconds.
- Finally, move the iOpener over to the left edge (the side with the rear camera) of the back of the iPad and let it relax for one last 90 seconds.
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Step 46
- Kick things off by sliding a plastic opening tool under the edge of the battery cell nearest to the logic board area—this creates just enough wiggle room to sneak in the flat end of your trusty spudger.
- Next, glide the flat end of your spudger along both long sides of each battery cell to fully loosen them from the sticky adhesive holding them down to the rear case.
- If the adhesive is being stubborn and won’t budge, warm up the rear panel a bit to soften things up, then give it another go.
Tools Used
Step 47
Handle the battery connector board with care—no extreme bending, please! And when you're gently prying around that little post sticking out from the aluminum rear case, take it easy. You've got this!
- Before you go popping up the middle battery cell, grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the battery connector board off the rear panel. A little nudge goes a long way!
Step 48
- Now, grab your trusty spudger and gently work your way along the long edges of the middle battery cell, peeling away that adhesive like a pro.
- For the last battery cell, repeat the process, and if the case is being stubborn, give it a little more heat to loosen it up.
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently lift the battery out of the rear panel and carefully remove it from the iPad 2. Take your time—no rush here!
Step 50
- Gently lift the dock connector and speaker cables to expose the Wi-Fi antenna cable underneath.
- Carefully peel the Wi-Fi antenna cable away from the back panel.
Step 51
- Let's get those screws out of the way! Start by removing the following four little guys:
- Two 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are just waiting to be freed
- And don't forget the two 1.7 mm Phillips screws—time to say goodbye!
Step 52
- Gently peel the Wi-Fi antenna away from the speaker enclosure and take it out of the iPad 2. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 53
Make sure those tiny EMI foam rings stick tight to the dock connector cable—they're sneaky but important!
- Gently lift the dock connector cable off the speaker cable—careful not to damage anything, we want this to go smoothly!
Step 54
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully slide it under the edge of that large strip of tape holding the speaker assembly in place. Take it slow and steady!
- Now, gently peel that tape off using your fingers. It should come off without too much trouble, but if you need some help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 55
- Grab your screwdriver and let’s tackle these screws! First up, remove the 3 mm Phillips screw.
- Next, take out the 2.1 mm Phillips screw. You've got this!
Step 56
- Gently nudge the speaker assembly out from beneath the right side of the rear panel using the edge of a plastic opening tool.
- Lift the speaker assembly away from the iPad 2.
